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Routes as sport in The Horn Area

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Mothballs
19 Jack Be Nimble
Sport 15m, 2
16 The Biggest Thing Here

FA: Anthony Pattison & Joe Goding

Sport 25m, 7
20 Waiting For A Princess

Shares start then left of TBTH. Awkward start to line of carrots with some ring bolts towards the top.

FA: Joe Goding & Anthony Pattison

Sport 25m, 9
23 Head First

Was originally very 'go-ey' with just 1 high bolt (Hence the name). Now sane with 3 FHs. Start as for Robert Dazzler but instead of angling up left, head straight up.

  1. Reach across to the arete from the slopey boulder to clip the first FH. You will need either a particularly attentive belayer or a long clip stick to protect the climbing to the second FH. Straight up past the 3rd FH (crux) to the ledge and a rap/lower off.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1991

Sport 15m, 3
16 Pleasure
Sport 15m, 2
18 Pain
Sport 15m, 2
Dreamworld
16 Buffalo Soldier
Sport 13m, 5
18 Spaceman Spiff

Starts 2m right of "This is not our land". Up on good flakes past 6 glue in m10 g304 stainless bolts. Fun, good warm up for "This is not our land" but better protected.

Was originally a very bold trad route, but was inadvertently retro-bolted and renamed to 'The Day After Invasion Day' in 2012, presumably as a result of an incorrect topo in the 2006 guidebook, which showed 'Spaceman Spiff' as being several meters right of the climb's actual location.

FA: Bill Ottaway & Kiersten Price, 1989

Sport 15m, 6
20 This Is Not Our Land

The left side of the left dyke, wandering rightwards slightly as it goes up. Three carrot bolts. Harder if you're short.

Sport 15m, 3
29 Gondwanaland

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

FA: Gerhard Horhager

Sport 12m, 4
18 Two Old Plonkers
Sport 12m
19 Joe's New Slab
Sport 12m
21 Medusa
Sport 14m
20 Deshevelled
Sport 12m
The Horn
16 Parrot On A Stick

Smear your way up past 3 FH to the top.

Sport 12m
17 Profanities

A great introduction to Buffalo slab climbing, and well protected by Buffalo standards. At half height there is the option to step right to the abseil station at the end of Crowlands (but it's generally considered best to ignore this and do the route as one long pitch).

There are options to place gear in the second half of the route, but it protects fine without anything further than 11 bolt plates and draws.

Start at base of arete with a clever crux to reach first bolt. Alternative bridge left crack to clip first bolt. Contiue past 6 PH to belay ledge at 25m, bolt both left and right of chock stone. Continue 20m up arete past 3 PH, #6 nut under R flake, small cam L flake, and #2 cam in final crack before rap off chain at top. Rap done to another rap chain top of crowlands. Can be done as 1 pitch 45m. Brilliant long consistent gd 17 slab cimb

Sport 45m, 2, 11
18 Crowlands

Long 22m arete climb consists of 4 granite blocks stacked. Start 2m R of Dick Selector Crack. First block smooth slab, poss cam in top horizontal crack. Getting onto second block cruxy with 1PH protection. Third block fun and crimpy with 2PH. Forth and final block smooth and slippery crux with 2PH. Top out with rap chain to bottom.

Sport 25m, 6
7 Swerv'n Mervin

Starts same crack as for Selwyn Slag Heap but vere right at long diagonal crack and continue to top

Sport 18m, 5
9 Easter Island

Large independent block L of Yeah Boys. Great first lead for a beginner. Step up onto nose and continue up over eye and along forehead crack. Sling and cam for belay. Easy exit off back of block

Sport 8m, 3
23 Paparazzi Nazi

The arete R of (and a tad harder than) Glitterati.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson (Jan '98)

Sport 15m, 4
23 Glitterati

The centre of the block right of the Hoi Polloi arete (R of and down a little from the summit block and above the first pitch of Buttocks). Up past 4BRs.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust ('83)

Sport 20m, 4
22 A Change Of Heart

The randomly bolted arete on the R side of the flared crack Mood for a day.

FA: Mark Colyvan (summer '91/'92)

Sport 15m, 5
21 The Songlines

The undercut pitted face between the two flared cracks Nathaniel- Mood for a Day. Belay from under roof and make way up start of Mood to clip FH above roof. Carefully step over on to face and up past 2 FH to belay on block below pigs snout. Rap back down off pig snout chain.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Alan Hope ('94)

Sport 18m, 3
20 Peroxide Blonde

Rap in off the belay bolts at the Horn summit lookout. Climb follows the sharp square L arete past 5BRs.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham & Andrew Collins (Dec '82)

Sport 18m, 5

Showing all 24 routes.

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