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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | ★ My Only Wish
Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle. | 25 | 15m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
1 | The Unknown
A minor addition. Start below 3rd bolt on My Only Wish. Boulder through bulge then clip last FH on Into Oblivion, following that to its conclusion (wires/cams). | 20 | 12m, 2 | Unlink route | ||
6 | ★ Into Oblivion
Start below FH and shallow corner 2m right of MOW. A few moves up this then diagonally left past 3 FH then medium wires 0.75-2 cams to chain. Re-bolted 2016 but needs further cleaning. Can be finished direct above 3rd bolt as for COC. | 21 | 20m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
3 | ★ Corrosion of Conformity
Previously described as run out this is probably still the best way to finish IO. Start as for MOW, out to 3rd FH on IO and continue straight up via one more FH (added by the FA Nov 2016) | 21 | 18m, 3 | Unlink route | ||
8 | ★ The Downward Spiral
Takes the right edge of the My Only Wish wall with 5 FH to a loweroff. Surprisingly independent and continuous climbing. Easier than it looks. | 16 | 18m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
11 | My Descent Into Madness
Right hand trad variant of 'The Downward Spiral'. Start as for 'The Downward Spiral', but head slightly right after the first bolt. Rejoin 'The Downward Spiral' at last bolt. Has enough gear (just) and still a little bit of moss. | 15 | 18m, 2 | Unlink route | ||
4 | Into Oblivion My Only Wish
Up IO, clip 2nd FH with long sling then truck left below the lip as per MOW. | 25 | 20m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
5 | ★★ Red Dawn
Best climb on the wall? Links up all the good stuff and avoids the contrived finish of MOW to give a really quality pumper. Add superb morning sun and brand new rings and this should be a great crag warm up. Start at IO, clip second FH with an extender, left under the lip as for MOW to last bolt. Instead of staying left gain sloper and follow obvious line of holds straight up to easier finish. | 23 | 18m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
7 | ★ The Oblivion of Conformity
Quality link up. | 21 | 18m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
9 | ★ Spiralling Towards Conformity
Not as good as TOOC but pretty bloody good. DS to 4th clip then up through crux of COC. Best finished to new anchor on DS or clip that on way to upper anchor if you want to TR MOW. | 21 | 15m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
10 | ★ The Downward Spiral Into Oblivion
Pleasant link up. Start up The Down Spiral to just short of the 4th FH, step L to Into Oblivion's 3rd FH finishing up that climb. | 19 | 24m, 5 | Unlink route |
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