Routes in Omega Block Area

From the jug on the right side of the face and once established on the wall (mossy pedestal base is off route) make a long pull to the lip, then move slightly left and up the face above.

Upgraded as repeats are suggesting it is harder than a V1.

Start matched on the same starting hold as Captain Invisible (again the mossy pedestal base is off route). Cramped move left to side pull and spring out left with conviction to good holds at the lip. Jugs above.

Famously described as ‘the hardest V3 in the world’ by a V8 climber who didn’t tick. Really good though. Same start as for Dark Matter. Once established on the holds at the lip, traverse low around the left arete following the rising traverse of Cameo to its end.

Sit down start on the arete and follow the lip right to top out via the short right facing corner.

Best easy on the mount? SDS on positive holds on the left side of the arete. Follow more good holds along the rising undercut face to top out once on the jug at the end of the face,

Juggy wall 20m up left of Straining Rail.

Face 2m right of Pockets

Excellent technical and powerful climbing. Starts south side (underneath) The Hull. Stand start with both hands on edges on lip (and/or poor slope underclings on lip) of the hull and establish feet with difficulty. Steeply up a couple of moves via poor slope pockets on the underside and arete for right hand (crack and face jugs up right out for hands) to join TH. The slab on left is obviously out (but makes for an ok VE).

As the name says! Having added the Straining Rail Extension via The Hull previously (and effectively doubling the available problems)... here for your bouldering obsessive compulsion is the truly contrived next edition. Having climbed SR or any of the harder right hand routes suck in the Os before dcending into the hanging corner then very tenuously onto the start holds of Southside (no getting the pockets from the crack and no knee bars!). Climb that problem in its entirety. Some of the links could be quite hard.

Start RH on low lip, LH on juggy pocket (old tick) ie all except hard first moves of Southside. Up into the Hull via a cool sequence. Was probably solid at the grade at V5... now V6 after the best hold on the lip got kicked off!

Start as Babylon but head left below small overlap to climb the underside of 'the hull'. From arete jug harder moves left gain the crack in the back of the corner then punch up to finish at monster jug. Slab on left out (obviously).

Start and finish as per The Hull. The Bulb and the The Hull are the same until the arete jug. From the arete jug, head toward the monster finishing jug via the jug on the mossy bulb formation (up), rather than via the big flake jug (left) used in The Hull.

The hanging gardens of... Stand start on juggy hanging flake 3m Left of SR. Ascend jugs into mossy hanging corner. Stop when bored, filthy, soaking or scared. The jug horn up right is an obvious target.

Adds length only (and another link up for the wall!). Under Strain then quest left as per SR extension.

The route is longer than the name... but only just. Wills Dyno into Descent Into Madness. Hardest moves are deep in the problem. V9/10. For the masses to decide.

Truck left as per all the other extensions. Go on... do it!

Start left hand lowest hold on straining rail flake and right just above it. Massive move to flake then as per under strain.

Eliminate. Climbs the underside of the Straining Rail. No knee bars or scums and no left hand use of flake (including the giant jug and top crimp). Hard. There are a few variants V8 to V9. No heel hooks either if you want V9.

Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull.

Same grade much more climbing... Really fun. Climb SR then easily left on jugs to cool sequence down into hanging corner and jugs on Babylon/The Hull. Move left to finish up the long moves of The Hull. Careful not to choke the last couple of moves!

Crag Classic. Sit start at base of slopey rail (RH crimp, LH crimp under bulge- see topo). Head up and left to finish on jugs. Excellent.

Starting on the slopey rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno right to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

When will suggested this I considered it impossible... but it certainly does go. Climb Humpty to the elevator gastons then engage afterburners for a big off balance jump to the top finishinh jug directly above (all intermediates out).

aka Death by a Thousand Cuts. Pretty meaty at the grade. Long Road Home into DIM.

Longer than most of the routes down here! The Long Road Home then as for SR extension.

Shoulder demolition factory! Climb HD into Positive Ape.

PS then SR extension. Adds a grade.

'Elevator door' stand start with the HD gaston right hand and left on the opposing gaston crimp (see start hold topo). Technical moves up left trending flake to jug (horn and jug on right are out). From jug traverse left to finish as for SR using that problems undercling flake jug. Was a bit mean at V5.

Ape.S.Crazy. Positive Ape into DIM.

It adds mileage to link PA into SRE and it's still possible to punt the last 2 moves!

As for PP but jug on flake and jug in roof all out. New beta is more technical than hard. Will see if subsequent ascents lead to a downgrade. Watch the landing!

Simian Ling Nights into DIM.

Long Night if the Ape into SRE

Link Day of the Ape into Positive Ape.

After The War into Descent Into Madness. Hardest moves near the start... but there’s plenty to keep you thinking late.

V9/10. Poor mans variant or training progression/link-up... take your pick. Start at elevator stand (start of PA) and climb back half of LDWT before extending left as per SRE. Probably pretty close to double digits if you climb one of the V8 or 9 variants on straining rail.

Start as per Positive Ape in the Elevator Stand, and traverse left and low into start of Straining Rail avoiding jugs up high. Finish off on Straining Rail.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row. Worth extending left for the full experience.

Stand start down right using minging ripples on prow below chockstones. Up to good RH layaway (no heel/toe in crack to right) then left to gain R end of HD traverse (crimp on L side of chockstone in but nil chockstone jugs or R side of chockstone). Punch up to jugs above (R facing ear and jugs on chockstone to right out). Can be climbed at V6 starting with LH on chockstone crimp, RH on good low layaway.

Stand start on the somewhat loose-ish block. Head straight up. Very easy moves between jugs. If the block/fridge comes free and you are under it you will be removed with a spatula and a bucket! Can be climbed from ground level at V2/3 (start holds in topo).

Ungrade-able horror (probably about 15 in the old scale!). Start the trench at ground level and butterfly jam, weep, rock gently in the corner towards the sunlight.

Pronounced diagonal line. Strenuous.

Up and right from 1 metre right of the route Straining Rail

Undercut wide crack on the left edge of the downhill face. Long pull diagonally up right or jump to start for those without the span. Easy crack above.

Line of ring bolts (x 4) on left side of nose, front of buttress. STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start in middle of undercut bulge (as for No Schmecking and Here Come the Bastards), boulder out left (crux) to stance on sloping shelf, up keeping (more or less) on left of nose, up short slab to lower off.

Original description taken from VCC North West VIC guide... historical reference only. Start 3m right of Chain on the nose of the blank buttress. POOR PRO. Past fixed wire (you might call it that?!) left and up to ledge. Straight up wall delicately above. SHAKY PRO. New bolted routes (Tough Love and Here Come the Bastards) make this route pretty much obsolete, retro bolt with full permission from M.Law.

Refer to Privy Block

Start in middle of undercut bulge, front of buttress (same as for Tough Love and No Schmecking). STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT. Bouldery start straight up over bulge, (look for big pockets on right) to dynamic move to jug on left, stance on ledge then straight up the slab with fantastic incuts and pockets. Same lower off as for Tough Love. Enjoy.

Up and right to ledge. Crack above.

The hanging prow immediately left of the wide crack which is the route S-bend. Stick clip the first FH and boulder past this to the second FH where the difficulties ease. Keep veering slightly rightwards past another FH below the shallow groove. 2 bolt lower off over the top. Rebrushed and retrobolted by the FA 06/11/2016

The obvious line. Awkward start.

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start on jug below chimney and avoiding the obvious line of jugs 1m above lip. Hardest at the start to gain Stiff Upper Lip.

Stand start with left hand on left most slopey chicken head (photo) and right hand on lip. Pull on, both hands to lip then up staying at lip level to obvious finish jugs below overlap). Starting at jugs on lip a metre higher is just ripping yourself off.

Absurd. Climb Stiff Upper Lip then climb the right 21 to the big furry break at 6m. Traverse easily right past the 20/21 and the 15s to gain the V3 traverse line as far as the last 21. Up that to finish. Would take some proper rope friggery... so might as well solo it.

3m right of S-Bend. Step L to obvious jug and up the bulge steeply

Climb the short overhang and then head upwards past 4FH to loweroff.

Rebrushed and rebolted 6/12/19 so should get some deserved traffic.

Clip the 1st FH of Dominance and Submission, then down and climb right across the overhanging wall to jugs. Then up right to groove finishing up DAS.

5m right of Dominance and Submission at the base of a big block on the face. Straight up the groove/crack, then step right and up the wall right of the crack.

On the block above as for Tyranny and Mutation, up to a FH, Step L to the groove/crack and up the wall L of it.

As for Blue Oyster Wall to the 1st FH then straight up the overhanging wall past 2FHs to the DRB loweroff.

Blue Oyster Wall to the FH, then follow the right leading line past 2FHs then face above past 1 FH to DRB lower off. Rebolted by the FA 6 Dec 2019

Up the prow L of the dirty crack, (no stepping into this) past 3FHs to a DRB loweroff

The wall and face R of the dirty crack that is steeper than it looks past 4 FHs to a DRB loweroff.

Long rising traverse starting on next tier above the V5 (access via juggy moss slab). Hard move or two starting on obvious low hold on nose, a bit dicky traversing above the chockstone then perfect pockets right for 5m to a go for it finish up the hung Arete. Really good rock!

Up and left onto the dished wall and sea of moss.

10m right of Cruel Stain. Up the short pocketed wall past 3FH to DRB lower off. Rebolted 6 Dec 2019.

No seriously, it is at least 50deg and probably easier than V1! Around right if PPP start on lowest jugs in cave, get back just off rising ground behind and surf the miss and jugs to victory.

Quite good. Sit start at obvious jug in face and make long move to lip. Up to mantle jugs making sure not to fall down the gully!

Easy, barely worthwhile and definitely best not fallen off... but if you're in the area! Start lying downhill on slab under nose (the crux?!) and left hand on obvious jug. Pull on, long move to lip and move around right face to mantle on jugs.

Crack on the right side of the block

Start 3m left of Nosferatu. BR, flake and past a 2nd BR.

Face just left of the red wall. 2 BR

Face and corner 2m left of XT Cherie.

Sit start. Head straight up the middle of the wall to topout on jugs. Is easily protectable with a spotter on the rock, or, a steel-plated beanie.

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

Sit start on opposing side pulls (left crimp and right arete). Head up, toping out on jugs bigger than your mother's.

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

The left arête, 1FH plus trad stuff to lower-off.

Start just right of Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block directly below arete, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

The middle of the face, 2 FHs to lower-off.

On front face of small pinnacle right beside walking track before track goes uphill to Omega Block. Starts of sharp flake / jug in middle of face, straight up on small crimps and mono pocket past 2 x fixed hangers.

Low sit start at Arete between LL and TR using RH layaway jug. Up to jugs on Arete. Sane people will jump off before they get too involved in the jungle above!

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Better still finish the boulder direct as per Wills Rad Traverse. V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use. Upgraded after several strong attempts sent packing.

Eliminate with wings. Radness start (no use of left foot jug on arete) then Rad Dyno from slimp and crimp pocket to top jug, then top out more easily.

Probably soft if you’re tall and/or can jump... but take care not to tear your right pinky off!! Stand start at chest height slope and pocket gaston on the Radness (or lower if you’re up for it). Establish feet and Dyno to radness finish jugs up right. No popping from the ground peeps! Easy high finish. Even better link it out of the Radness start!

Probably the way to do it. The Radness using foot jug then right into Release The Koalas. Very easy to spill the second last move!

Climb V8 version of the Radness (V8 if you do big foot/V7 version of TR) until R hand on finish jug. Technical sequence right to join Koala at the seam. Finish up that lines crux. Fairly long problem.

Start matched on finishing jugs of the Radness. Sequency traverse right to gain the seam at start of RTK. Finish as for that problem. Essentially a longer start.

Sit start with undercling and crimp. Head straight up the green runnel.

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

I love Mikes work, but Icall bullshit and am renaming the route... Partly because this is a cooler name and partly because V1 has to be a radar grading! If give it V4 if it wasn't that I know I'm crap at upside down trenches. Sit start on jugs at back of cave. Traverse out using endless trickery and mantle to the right.

Caving! Crux is staying off back wall which is only ever inches away! Behind the start of the green room is a 40degree funnel. Start lying in slab, pull in and contort way out to the light via jugs.

This climb can sting after a while, still a project, grading needs confirmation but definitely a hard and worthwhile problem. Sit start at low life. Reach around the corner to a crimp where you can match (no foot jug, edge and slot from the radness), big move up to a slopey pocket, and continue up to a match finish on the medium edge beside the fern (or top out if your feeling a little crazy)

Similar grading to the radness, maybe a tad harder. Sit start as per radness however go left into the pocket and thin edge avoiding the holds on the right. Match finish on the medium edge next to the fern. Another desperate concept line from Will.

Start as per Man-o-war, foot jug is in (you can do it without it, makes it harder but ruins the climb) climb around the boulder to the stand start holds of The Radness (Edge and pocket/slot). Finish as for TR including the easy but worthwhile extended high finish to top out the boulder.

Awesome traverse around the boulder. Link The rad traverse with the koala link. Long, pumpy problem. Upgraded to V8 for now. Time will tell.

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

Very low sit start on right facing jug at same level as NAs start jug and left hand on awkward jug feature... NOT the undercling above. A couple of powerful boxy moves via RH jug into LH underclings (crux) then longer moves by good flat tops lurking amongst the lichen. Good.

Start on same jug as North Arete and move up into first pinch and dish move. Head left into obvious pockets and go straight up. Avoid anything right of the crack.

Sit start on obvious giant jug. Couple of steep moves on jugs then top out the lichen crusted rib (will be better if someone wants to clean the top out)

A contrived line that heads right and up the face from the start hold of North Arete. It eliminates the use of the crimp and pocket on North Arete.

Stand start on obvious square cut right facing layaways at left end of face. Big move up left to jugs over pillow, then mantle. Don't step off until you're hands free.

Sit start with both hands on obvious low layaway jug. A couple of tech/power moves (edges to right are out but probably just make it harder anyway!) to gain layaway flake on stand start.