Routes as trad in Camels Hump

Best climb on the wall? Links up all the good stuff and avoids the contrived finish of MOW to give a really quality pumper. Add superb morning sun and brand new rings and this should be a great crag warm up. Start at IO, clip second FH with an extender, left under the lip as for MOW to last bolt. Instead of staying left gain sloper and follow obvious line of holds straight up to easier finish.

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

Start 3m left of Nosferatu. BR, flake and past a 2nd BR.

Start below FH and shallow corner 2m right of MOW. A few moves up this then diagonally left past 3 FH then medium wires 0.75-2 cams to chain. Re-bolted 2016 but needs further cleaning. Can be finished direct above 3rd bolt as for COC.

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. Not run out but fiddly gear that some will not be happy with. Take care.

Original description taken from VCC North West VIC guide... historical reference only. Start 3m right of Chain on the nose of the blank buttress. POOR PRO. Past fixed wire (you might call it that?!) left and up to ledge. Straight up wall delicately above. SHAKY PRO. New bolted routes (Tough Love and Here Come the Bastards) make this route pretty much obsolete, retro bolt with full permission from M.Law.

Refer to Privy Block

A height dependent grade. Starts 3m right of Space Jugging at an easy angled ramp with a short hand crack. Up the ramp, then left , past the BR, then move up and right, up and back left, then over the overhang.

A minor addition. Start below 3rd bolt on My Only Wish. Boulder through bulge then clip last FH on Into Oblivion, following that to its conclusion (wires/cams).

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018. Start: just left of Poxbow under obvious corner. Up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by 3RBs bolt to rap station

The orange arête at the right end of the caves, with an undercut start, between the large tree and pointy boulder to the right. Resist the temptation to bridge off the boulder, and instead go left through a crux start up up to a stance. Delicate traverse right to the arête, then it gets much juggier from there. At the big ledge, walk back and right and continue up the next wall.

The start can be protected with pre-placed, finger-size cams, by traversing in from the cave and using the diagonal crack above the bollard, then scrambling back down to start. (Or just climb from the cave to bring it down to around grade 16-17.)

As for Honeycomb Hangover. Up the buttress, to the break. Right across this to a Glue Bolt (SafeCliffsVictoria 2003); hard to see from below, then up the wall above.

Pleasant link up. Start up The Down Spiral to just short of the 4th FH, step L to Into Oblivion's 3rd FH finishing up that climb.

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

Up and right to ledge. Crack above.

Undercut wide crack on the left edge of the downhill face. Long pull diagonally up right or jump to start for those without the span. Easy crack above.

Start as for Next To Impossible, but continue directly past carrot bolt to finish 1m right of that climb.

Start near Honeycomb Hangover. Follow trench up to right then step up to clip carrot bolt. Step back down then swing left. Finish up wall 1m right of White Ant Wall.

Start 2m right of Aratus. Left of the scoop. Up the buttress to the break. Straight up, then veer right and up the overhanging wall.

5m right of the start of Dance of the Curates is a slightly overhanging grey wall with 2 short cracks starting at 3m. Gutter Talk is the left crack. Originally written up to escape up and right and up the middle of the big buttress. Far easier to down climb diagonally left into the gully.

The start of Gutter Talk actually offers a couple of enjoyable boulder problems to get established in the bowl at ~4m where the line relents so the following boulder problem starts continue to the top.

• SDS Left Gutter V2. SDS underclings as for Mastermind - powerful sequence past the hueco and into the line.

• SDS Right Gutter V3 SDS sidepulls down right in the seam. Stretch up left into the hueco and continue up Gutter Talk.

SDS from low undercling directly under the hueco would make for a more challenging start.

Up 'Romulus' to ledge below bolt on 'Wishful Thinking'. Up on right side of bolt to finger crack (bomber nut placement), avoiding the temptation to bridge across the 'Romulus' gap, then continue using crack or thin edges until jugs are reached.

Nice little trad route on a sport climbing wall, mostly independent of Warfront. Start 1m right of WF. Gain the diagonal break without resorting to bridging, good #3 Camalot. Straight up to a good #1 1/2 flexible friend 1m below WF's top bolt. Diagonal up right to a little turret, medium wire then up steeply to the anchors. (If you bridge the start, call it 16.)

This was the original way 'Poxbow' was done and is still a great piece of climbing. From the slabby ground, instead of moving up to the chalked flake edge, traverse around R onto the nose on surprisingly large holds. Pull up the two pocketed bulges directly above. DRBs.

Best way to do Keystones. Start up Underseige clipping bolt to the break (gear), then traverse right to the ledge. Follow ramp up to Keystones. 2nd bolt can be clipped from the corner on right before stepping back to the line directly below it.

The original route starts up the 8m mossy, juggy face of Little Jumble Gully to the ledge where Underseige & Keystones originally started. Pitch 2 is the obvious crack and groove in the grey/orange wall between Underseige & Keystones

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slug's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

The left arête, 1FH plus trad stuff to lower-off.

Start just right of Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block directly below arete, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

5m right of Dominance and Submission at the base of a big block on the face. Straight up the groove/crack, then step right and up the wall right of the crack.

3m right of S-Bend. Step L to obvious jug and up the bulge steeply

Up and right from 1 metre right of the route Straining Rail

Don't fall over yourself but this is actually ok! Straight up red wall opposite WAW past 3 carrots. Worth setting a trad belay to avoid the party plummeting down the gully if you miss the crux first bolt! There is an old carrot bolt there for said purpose.

(To access the next 5 routes you need to go to the very top of the Greasy Grass gully track and move right around the arete from the start of Aratus)

Straight up the wall as best as possible passing a suss TCU (3 cam unit) and two carrot bolts. - Or - start in the corner under the first carrot. Pass this on the face, then a wire and easy climbing to the top bolt. Blast up past this to the top.

Scramble up the gully just right of Notes On Pillows, about a third of the way up, opposite a small block is a wall with an obvious break at half height. Up the face to the break (#2½ , 3 cams), then past a bolt.

The right crack just left of the cave.

SDS V1 option as a highball boulder problem

There is also a line on the left edge of the small cave

SDS V1 up till over the initial bulge and at the base of the left facing corner above. Either down climb and drop off or move left and finish up Down the Gurgler.

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

As for Poxbow past the crux then finish on left arete (as for Blind Sox) rather than traversing right on the flake (FA Solo)

The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move.

Start at overhanging corner 3m right of the start of Horny Nanny. Step up awkwardly to level of the 1st bolt. Reach out right to the good jug before coming back left to holds near the 2nd bolt. Step onto the slab above and head up and right to anchors. Trad for upper section.

The jug out right can be eliminated at 18/19.

A belay bolt is found on the wall just left of the start.

Up the chimney as for Prometheus and over the bulge.

Originally started up the flake on the right, now goes up the middle of the block. Start in the middle of the face directly below the bolt then straight up the face past two more bolts.

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so add a grade or two if you start that way.

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

The lower arete was rebolted with consultation of the FA in Oct 2018, this still requires mixed gear. Follow the initial arete past 3 FHs and onto the slab. Up the slab past another FH to gain the little rooflet, round this past another FH then up the top arete onto it L side to DB lower off. Michael did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for the FA, ha ha!

Face just left of the red wall. 2 BR

Same start as 'Red ANZAC'. Climb obvious right leaning chunky flake crack. Step right 2m and climb steep red overhang off block. Mossy finish. Number 0 BD micro cam is pretty handy for the top.

About 12m right of 'Human Hex' or 4m left of 'Summer Breeze'. Onto a bollard, up past a rusty carrot bolt at 8m to a niche. Out right to finish up crack. Single fixed hanger at belay can be backed up with trad gear, or bolts above 'Summer Breeze' are about 3m away.

As for 'Waning Crescent', but climb to the left of the first bolts and/or continue straight upwards after the second bolt rather than moving left. To be regarded as a piker's variant, and written up only to discourage people from cheating as such.

Opposite Honeycomb Hangover at the ramp below a big flake. Up the flake, over the bulge and up water streak to the GlueBolt (SaferCliffsVictoria 2003). Up the groove to the top.

Space Jugging starts at the overhanging, juggy crack left of the left arete. Up and slightly right to a carrot bolt, then follow the jugs up the arete past another carrot bolt.

Three meters left of Space Jugging. One carrot bolt.

Climb the face right of Styx past 2 BRs and placements before the first bolt and up high,

A King needs A Queen for protection. Almost a sport route! The arete and face left of Pynx at the far right side of Gumslinger Wall. Climb to the first bolt of A Queen then continue straight up the arete and face to Rook's Return DBB. The second runner is from slinging a spike and the top 2 runners are by side clipping A Queen's last 2 FHs.

Right hand trad variant of 'The Downward Spiral'.

Start as for 'The Downward Spiral', but head slightly right after the first bolt. Rejoin 'The Downward Spiral' at last bolt.

Has enough gear (just) and still a little bit of moss.

Grey water runnel on the L side of the slab - very poorly protected. Bridge up and onto the slab start, then up the R side of the enjoyable groove

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up arete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

At top of gully above Slug Wall. Scramble up corner below grey wall then left around bulge to finish

The obvious line. Awkward start.

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

(The next two climbs are on the block opposite the start of Deep Throat, Moist Lungs.)

1. The left arête past a bolt.

Just right of the cave below the main groove 2m right of Down The Gurgler. Climb up to the foot of the groove. Up steepening then out left and up the face.

Boulder problem at Lawyers In Love base

SDS V1 - narrow rib direct without using the ramp to the left to get established on the good hold at the top of the rib. Easiest to traverse right and down

Hidden in the moss, a far R fine flake feature.

Crack on the right side of the block

On the block above as for Tyranny and Mutation, up to a FH, Step L to the groove/crack and up the wall L of it.

3m right of Hoof and Poof. Climb the overhanging diagonal, placing gear in the crack. Once the big jug on the left is reached, pull onto the slab above to finish at anchors on Hoof and Poof.

A belay bolt is found at the base of this climb and can be used for bothe this and Nanny's climb.

5m right of 'Tobin Brothers'. No protection until after the crux.

2 meters left of 'News From Home'. Up the groove.

Climb the rib and crack 2m right of Lawyers In Love. Move left above broken tree to arête. Up arête (poor pro) using positive pockets on right-hand face to an obvious ledge (RB's) . Possible to finish up a smooth ramp to another ledge for something different.(20m)

The arête 1m right of the 'Human Hex' chimney. Negligible pro.

Starts 3m right of the Gymnast where the upper section of rock joins the lower section.

Poorly protected, not a beginners lead. About 30m right of A2 on the same level as Cella is a small thin buttress.

1. 20m Climb the rib.

2. 30m The low angled wall behind. Left across gully and up

At the vertex of the parabola formed by the base of the buttress, midway between curves A and N, bisect these 2 curves to the apex. (Hard start, wide crack, swing left onto the face then straight up.)

1. 18m (12) Bridge the 8m of Oxbow to the chockstone. Step off and climb the L wall moving to near the arete. Select pockets carefully then pull over the bulge to a large ledge and bolt belay.

2. 12m (11) Climb the face just R of the prominent crack-line in the wall above to a big ledge.

3. 45m (7) Up the arete/rib on the L (as for Oxbow) , for 15m to Oxbow's small 2nd belay stance. Pull over the little bulge above and scramble easily to the summit of the Omega block. Descend - scrambling down the juggy NE arete/blocks or rap-off RH side bolts (see details in Omega Block)

Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

Pronounced diagonal line. Strenuous.

Belay at top of the grassy gully. Boulder to top of pinnacle on the right to the main face. Up the centre of face to the groove. Place dubious protection then up and slightly right on suspect holds. Climb past mossy ledge to belay on boulders above

Starts 2m right of Hermes. Straight over the flake.

Maybe the top of Dance Of The Curates. It is on the same level as Space Jugging apron but 15m to the right. You need to scramble down from Space Jugging, around the buttress and back up. The left facing corner with a bolt at the top of the gully. Finish up either the right corner or step left and up on buckets.

On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide.

Face and corner 2m left of XT Cherie.

Eight metres down and right of Pellet between two water grooves. 1. 15m Up the buttress to the second ledge. 2. 20m Cross the chimney below large chockstones and climb the left wall.

The nice crack/offwidth 10m right of Hazy Shade Of Winter (1m right of the arête).

3m right of Narcissus. The scoop and then the wall above.

Lovely climbing up the pockety groove in the middle of the wall opposite Witch and 3m R of Sze.The actual cruz moves are a wee bit bold if you are pushing the grade.

Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully).

At the LH end of the Lower Tier, there are three buttresses facing towards Hanging Rock just before the cliff breaks down. These are reached by scrambling down below the Leaky Bucket area and following the path back up again on the other side of the first buttress.

1. 39m Climb the mossy, slabby middle buttress (3m right of a burnt out tree which makes a good landmark) to the top

2. 10m Move the belay by walking across the buttress to a large white tree and another big mossy buttress

3. 33m Straight up to a steep wall with a crack. Move right below the steep wall to another bulge and finish up another crack

Juggy wall 20m up left of Straining Rail.

2m right of the start of Billy Butt Dress. Step onto the right hand horn and up right of the arete. Jug in the middle of the right face provides access to the top of the arete. Go left to join Billy Butt Dress at the top.

Start 2m right of Stele Evasion. Poor protection and an even poorer write-up. The length of the climb is given as 20m and so is the length of the second pitch, go figure.

1. Xm Climb chimney groove until you can go right, follow the crack to the ledge.

2. 20m? The crack behind.

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed.

Face 2m right of Pockets

( There is a buttress below the Amphitheatre with the next 4 climbs )

On the left side of the buttress below and right of Cella. Up and over the prominent flake.

About 2m right of Hydra. 1. 25m The left side of the slab to a ledge. 2. 8m Step across and climb the crack behind. Diagonally over the boulders to below a shattered groove. 3. 22m The groove.