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Access: Area closed

Access is not permitted due to unstable cliffs and penguin nesting. “No entry - penalties apply” is clearly signposted at all tracks into the area.

There is evidence of recent climbing activity (slings) on the pinnacles. In the current climate, adhering to access restrictions will protect the reputation of climbers and the sport.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 years ago

description

Goes where Pirate Pete should've gone. Star as for PP.

  1. 25m Go up to the Bolt on PP, and up the middle of the slab (piton) to the earthy ledge below the steep wall (piton). Move R to belay in PP.

  2. 30m Traverse back L to the 1st weakness. Superb climbing leads up the slab and corner sysystem., veering R to bushes etc.

  3. Up the bushes, loose rock and earth.

Route history

3 Jun 1984First ascent: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns

Warnings

1 Jan 2020 Warning Access: Area closed

Location

Lat/Lon: -38.56409, 145.35121

Grade citation

15 Assigned grade
15 Eastern District Guide

ethic

Trad ethic predominates, largely due to the the short lifespan of fixed steel in the salty spray. Anchors are often slung bollards so bring some tat to lower off

inherited from Cape Woolamai

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
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Don't Bother
Crap

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Tick Types

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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