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Sector 3 - Right

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Description

All routes from Fisting a Shark to Taste the Pain.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

FA: 2011

Climb the overhanging arête and up the crack to a stance at half way height. Place a cam in the horizontal then balance your way up the slab between the arête and the corner to the chains.

Caution. The first bolt is the second bolt on Felch me and the run out to the chains is committing! Two pieces of gear was used on the FA.

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 2017

Start a couple of metres left of Felch me just right of the arete. Make some reachy moves through a technical sequence to gain the ledge. Head up and directly over the roof clipping a bolt above the lip and finish at Felch Me's chains. A powerful sequence through the roof.

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 12 Mar 2015

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

Start R of the graffiti. Up to first bolt, then L to stand on ledge on arete. Move back R via thin seam and then through steepening. Continue up L to chains.

Self explanatory. Climb Felch Me to its last bolt and head right to chains.

FA: Mark Whitham, 1991

Start as for 'Obsessive Compulsive Disorder' and at its third bolt traverse left via an undercling into 'Felch Me'. Clip Felch Me's 5th bolt and finish up this.

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 10 Nov 2015

Start just right of Felch Me and head directly up through layback flake. Veer slightly right over small overhang and up slab to chains.

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 2 Nov 2015

Start 1 metre right of original start under big block and head directly up and over block to a stance. Join the original line at its third bolt and finish as for this. Harder start. Long runner on second bolt is ideal as you can't reach the first bolt.

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 10 Nov 2015

Start in the right corner of Felch Me following the crack up to the chains.

Starts a metre left of 'Taste The Pain' under the big detached block. Climb the face keeping left of the vertical sloping weakness. Once at the roof head left around it and up the corner. Pull onto the slab and traverse right and finish at the chains.

FA: pamelalansbury, 14 Jul 2020

Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!

FA: Peter Arcidiaco, 21 Oct 2014

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

Climbs the left hand side of the corner. Start up the very loose brittle white rock and work through the detached blocks. Once at the overhang get some jams above your head and work your way into the top of 'Taste The Pain'. Finish at the old rusty chains for the full experience. WARNING The first half is extremely loose. Make sure your belayer is anchored well left of the fall zone!

FA: pamelalansbury, 16 Jul 2020

Neagle entered this route in his guide as a bit of a joke on the chossy corner to the left of ELV. 24 years later it's officially a route. Start as for 'The Power of the Choss Compels You', climb the LH side of the corner and just before the roof leave it and head towards the thin crack in the roof. Climb up and out of the slight overhang, mantle the slab and climb it to the top. No chains yet but they will be installed in the next few weeks.

The rock is shit. The gear is shit. Only climb it if you really feel the need to and even then don't do it. Climb another route instead. A serious undertaking with serious consequences if you fall!

FA: pamelalansbury, 23 Jul 2020

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Fri 28 Apr
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