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Wave Wall All Bouldering 12 routes in boulder

21
BLDV
V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5

Seasonality

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Description

A steep compact wall with some good powerful problems. The rock at the top is a bit suspect so be careful topping out. There is potential for lots of eliminates and link-ups which could make this a good training venue close to town.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Walk directly down the vague path past Mal's Rock and continue down a short rocky section to find the obvious East-facing wall down by the sea. Appears to be climbable at most states of tide, but the platform is wave washed so care required if there's a swell running or big tides.

Ethic inherited from Coffs Harbour

Climbing ethics in the Coffs Harbour area generally follow those of the rest of Australia. The sandstone often offers solid, natural protection which should be used instead of fixed protection where possible. Tape, ribbon, or something similar tied around a bolt or inserted in the route will indicate an incomplete route. Please respect these routes as projects until the marker is removed.

History

History timeline chart

Quite possibly climbed on before as it's a pretty obvious little wall.

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Routes

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1
V0 Climb Another Day Boulder

Straightfoward little problem at the far left of the wall above the rockpool.

2
V2 Live And Let Climb Boulder

Sit start just left of Slaptopussy (Right hand in the good pocket, Left hand on crimp) and layback the steep groove up the left side of the little pillar. Shares some holds with Slaptopussy.

3
V2 ★★ Slaptopussy Boulder

The left hand pillar. Low sit start under the roof with good pocket for the left hand in the quartz seam, and a sidepull for the right. Slap up on sidepulls and pinches.

4
V4 On Her Traverse-ty's Secret Service Boulder

Pull on as for Slaptopussy (LH pocket, RH sidepull) and traverse right on crimps in the delightful quartz seam to reach the starting holds of Agent Starlight. Finish up this. Surprisingly sustained.

5
V3 Shaken Not Stirred Boulder

Low sit start just left of the start of 'Golden Guns' with left hand sidepull and right hand low crimp. Hard move to the quartz rail, then move left past the good slot and up the overhung groove via the greasy sloper. Could also be done from the start of 'On Her Traversty's' to avoid the crux first move.

FA: 22 Sep 2021

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6
V2 Agent Starlight Boulder

Sit start on adjacent twin crimps in the quartz seam. Big move to sidepull with right hand, then direct up wall. A powerful little move.

7
V5 The Man With The Golden Guns Boulder

...or woman, of course. The low start to Agent Starlight adds a couple of moves. Shuffle into the cave to start low (see marked holds on photo) (right hand poor crimp, left hand small edge). Pull on, right hand to poor slopey pinch, left hand undercut, then go again to snatch the starting quartz crimps of Agent Starlight, finish up this (or better, do Crimpsino Guns)

8
V5 Crimpsino Royale Boulder

The continuation of 'On Her Traverse-ty's Secret Service' along the quartz rail. After reaching the twin crimps at the start of Agent Starlight, keep going along the rail past a quartz spike, and a bottomless slot to gain the pinch in the crack of 'You Only Jam Twice'. Finish as for this.

9
V5 Crimpsino Guns Boulder

Linkup: 'The Man With The Golden Guns' into 'Crimpsino Royale' combines the hardest set of moves on the crag.

10
V3 You Only Jam Twice Boulder

The steep crack is climbed from a powerful sit start (either off a crimpy sidepull or a greasy jam). Up past quartz crimp and another jam to an easier finish.

11
Project 1 BoulderProject

For when you're getting bored. 'Crimpsino Guns' to the high left hand pocket on 'You Only Jam Twice'. Now up and left, without touching the top to get the high pocket on 'Agent Starlight'. Reverse this via a nasty drop-down move back to the quartz rail, and then traverse left to finish up 'Live and Let Climb'.

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12
V0 A View To A Krill Boulder

This pleasant West-facing slab is found about 50m behind Wave Wall (just the other side of the little grassy patch) down by the ruined slipway. Great for beginners and kids, it can be climbed just about anywhere. The right-to-left traverse is probably the best value offering.

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V2 ★★ Slaptopussy

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