Fun Parlour Topos

On a small buttress about 50m left of the main crag. Onto the wall and up through the right side of the roof. 2 bolts and a tree belay.

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

Start on the block below the right leaning crack. Up crack then wall with small iron hand holds, wires low down then 3 BR's to the top.

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

A blunt arete arete, 2 carrots and 2 carrot bolt belay.

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 bolt and a large cam.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

The black wall right of STEAMER.

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 bolt. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. Large cam in cave and 2 bolts.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay. (No bolts between first and anchor).

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall. 3 bolts and trad belay. Superb.

Up trad crack and tend right to carrot bolt on arete.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

The right side of the wall to the right of the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 bolts.

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 bolts and some natural pro.

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 bolts and trad gear. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay.

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall perpendicular to the main crag. Very sustained. 4 bolts. Originally had a double bolt belay but apparently someone has chopped them (?). Either rap off the dodgy tree or walk down.

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

The first bolted route in the Coffs area! Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish. Bolts can be supplemented with gear if required. Belay from a tree about 10m back from the cliff.

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 bolts and a cam to a 2 bolt belay.

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top. 'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.