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Alchemy Wall Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Patrick Munnings Nick Clow Jon Nick Morgan Gareth Llewellin Dylan Tubaro Kat Liss

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Alchemy Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -42.112351, 148.340943

access issues

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

inherited from Coastal Cliffs

ethic

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (freycinet@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Statewide ethics

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

inherited from Freycinet National Park
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Monte Carlo 18 Trad 17m
2 Evelyn's Climb 20 Trad 15m
3 Coolibah Crack 19 Trad 20m
4 Immaculate Misconception

Climbs left arete of Alchemy Wall via some bolts and wires. Moves right at second bolt above rooflet and back towards the arete for gear and more holds. Gear anchor set a long way back from the top

FA: Nick Hancock

25 Mixed trad 20m, 3
5 Hermes Playmate 22 Trad 20m
6 Hermes Direct Finish 23 Trad 25m
7 Hermes Trismegistus 21 Trad 27m
8 Captivating Passions

Mixed bolts and gear.

25 Mixed trad 20m, 2
9 Ockham's Razor

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013

27 Mixed trad 20m, 6
10 Walking the Plank Direct Finish

Climb Walking the Plank but don't step right. Instead step left past a bolt and finish up wide crack (#4)

22 Mixed trad 20m, 1
11 Walking the Plank 19 Trad 25m
12 Blue-eyed Blonde 19 Trad 25m
13 Alchemy 21 Trad 25m
14 Fool's Gold 15 Trad 10m
15 Exquisite Tenderness 28 Sport 15m, 5
16 L'Obsession

Technical contortions up the right arete of the small face above and to the right of Alchamy Wall. Tree belay.

FA: N Selby, 2003

22 Sport 14m, 5
17 Black and Gold

Traverse left under-clinging flakes then up slab

15 Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
15 Black and Gold Trad 12m
Fool's Gold Trad 10m
18 Monte Carlo Trad 17m
19 Blue-eyed Blonde Trad 25m
Coolibah Crack Trad 20m
Walking the Plank Trad 25m
20 Evelyn's Climb Trad 15m
21 Alchemy Trad 25m
Hermes Trismegistus Trad 27m
22 Hermes Playmate Trad 20m
L'Obsession Sport 14m, 5
Walking the Plank Direct Finish Mixed trad 20m, 1
23 Hermes Direct Finish Trad 25m
25 Captivating Passions Mixed trad 20m, 2
Immaculate Misconception Mixed trad 20m, 3
27 Ockham's Razor Mixed trad 20m, 6
28 Exquisite Tenderness Sport 15m, 5
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