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Routes in Light Fingered Maddison Buttress

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Mrs D's Girdle

Exactly what it looks and sounds like!

Trad 30m
26 Snotty Snake
Mixed trad 10m, 1
25 Animal Instincts

Straight up the rad hand crack before a desperately cruxy right hand traverse via the obvious juggy undercling to finish up Light Fingered Maddison

FA: Simon Parsons, 2000

Trad 15m
28 Animal Instincts Direct

Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness

Trad 15m
21 Light Fingered Maddison

A classic route at the grade. Start up the diagonal cracks just left of the water and climb up through a sentry box feature to the thin cracks above

FA: Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Frank Moon & Bob McMahon

Trad 15m
23 Rent A Ricket

Start a few meters right of LFM, up the rib, then follow the diagonal crack up for ~6m, then up the vertical crack to finish

Unknown 15m
17 Spray

V groove, Abseil in -just where platform steps down

Trad 15m
15 Knocked In Rock

Abseil in via orange stained groove to stance 2m above calm seas. Diagonal finger and hand crack to ledge then up juggy head wall just left of crack

Trad 15m
25 Dislocator Beta
Sport 12m
15 Dislocator crack

The crack to the R of DB. Belay as for that route then scramble off north

Trad 12m

Showing all 10 routes.

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