Hazards Main Wall (Mid Level) Guide

Slab climbing past a couple of carrots.

A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity.

Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay car park, via a rough cairned track that follows the Skyline Traverse. Once the track levels off (where it's capped by a few large, mossy, distinctly green boulders) scramble down the left side and keep towards the right at each fork, staying along the base of the Suzuki Complex. Once you reach the obvious dihedral formation of Bullshit Factor, go 25m directly down the slope to find a bit of static safety line.

Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1.

Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.

1. 20m 17, 5 bolts. Follow the slightly right trending line up the slab to a TBB on the brushy ledge.

2. 30m 18/21, 9 bolts. Up the groove above the belay, stepping left onto the slab where the groove steepens and disappears (18). Alternatively, the groove finishes with a very thin exit onto the slab above (21). Continue up the easy slab to a DBB at a small stance.

3. 35m 18, 7 bolts. Climb the featured wall between the white water streaks, continuing up the easy slab above to a DBB at a small stance.

4. 30m 18, 8 bolts. Pad up the polished water streaks to glory, passing a small bush and overlap to a DBB.

As For Stud city until the obvious overlap is reached. Continue up the corner left of the overlap until a bolt on the arete can be seen. Clip the bolt and wildly move around the arete. Another bolt then DBB. Rap here (57m) or optional third pitch, mixed with 2 bolts. To descend, walk right past SC to regular abseil point.

An alternate finish to Stud City. Crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first

Classic old school trad climbing with ample protection to keep things sane.

1. (17) Start at the large tree below the short right trending corner. Climb this to the large hollow flake, then traverse right along this until you reach an open groove. Follow this up to a ledge and belay.

2. (18) Follow hand cracks into corner system. Traverse right on the massive flake (#4), then traverse across the slab for 3 meters to belay on a tussock.

3. (19) Up tricky off-width, followed by smooth finger crack, stepping left onto the face as needed when it gets desperate.

From the top of the last pitch traverse (roped up) about 30m in the direction of sleepy bay carpark. A crawl though some shrubs finds you the rap point. 50m rap to huge vegetated ledge. Another 25-30m rap brings you to the ground from here (100m away from the base of the route)

Pitch 1 (40m, 17) - as for Stud City.

Pitch 2 (30m, 17) - Climb crack in corner for about 10 metres, then instead of continuing up into the huge flake of Stud City, traverse right along the lower overlap, aiming for a bolt, followed by good but spaced gear in the seam. When the overlap peters out, continue traversing horizontally past another bolt and some more gear, then around the arete and up to a good belay on a sloping ledge.

Pitch 3 (30m, 16) - Original route goes up arete on the left, but staying in the corner/groove seems more logical. Follow corner system to big ledge with trees. From here, either rap from shitty small shrubs (sketchy), or -

Pitch 4 (20m, 15) - Up the corner with nice moves and good gear to spacious ledge under big cave.

Pitch 5 (30m, 10) - Traverse 10m right to weakness in overhang. Easy slabs to top without much pro.

Lovely. A fully bolted, very polished water streak on the slabs below the right end of the Main Wall offers delicate and sustained climbing. Approach the start via the lower level traverse line along the base of the slab, or traverse in from the base of Full Sail etc to the top anchors and abseil to the base of the route. Follow the line of bolts past several cruxes to a DBB just below the ledge.

Delicate climbing up the bolted left leaning seam on the polished slabs below Trucks Have Wings. The difficulties ease considerably after the first 3 bolts. DBB at top.

Climb the first two bolts of The Axiom then follow bolts out right.