Nodes in The Pharos

From Little Bluestone Bay follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.

Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp.

Right above the steep sector with ‘pinch of spice’ there is an obvious right trending crack.

Starting in the crack, move to the undercling and leap to the finishing jug.

Climb the arete from a sit start. Despite the two other problems on the boulder having good rock, this one seems to be a bit gravelly.

Large moves between very good holds leads you into some slabby moves near the top.

Steepish face from jug

Face L of arete

Easy corner

A 4WD is highly recommended to access these cliffs. Smaller cars may be able to reach the campsite at whitewater wall, however they will probably bottom out on approach. Track conditions are subject to change, particularly after heavy rains.

SDS Hard thin climbing up the corner

Amazing line straight up the middle of the face. Obvious right hand crimp to start and very low left hand, follow horizontal break to top out right. (Direct top out is possible)

Obvious line off jug to pinch and beyond just right of Pinch of Spice.

Historical as of 2022. Rockfall has rendered this boulder impossible (it now litters the base of Pinch of Spice). Potential for new route in overhung space left over.

The right arete of ‘Pharos headstone’, start with low left side pull and right hand on sloper arete slap up to top out as for Pharos headstone

SDS on the prominent arete to the right of Pinch of Spice, up jugs

SDS on the corner flake 1m to the right of arete

Vertical cracks and over bulge on large slab face

SDS in steep cut-out corner towards flakes

Stand start the thin crack immediately right of 45 degree slab

Stand start face and arete of Thin Crack