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Route in Pneisses

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Pneisses
1 15 45m
2 14 40m
3 16 35m
4 14 45m
5 16 30m
6 16 45m

A slabby day out. Easy to follow. Bring some smaller wires and cams .1 to 3 BD.

Start 20m L of Japhlion, 8m to the left of a right facing corner and arete.

  1. 45m (15) Up the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top RH corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up to the second tree belay.

  2. 40m (14) Thrash through tree and step out right onto slab. Head up and right but staying away from the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the Left.

  3. 35m (16) Solo diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding flake. Continue soloing directly up the weakness towards the small shrub in the steeper slab. Continue up easy slab above to a bush belay in the left hand gully.

  4. 45m (14) Up the slab trending slightly left, to a wire belay just below the steeper headwall.

  5. 30m (16) Up the right leaning crack below the headwall. Pull around this and onto the slab above and belay on large ledge with a trees.

  6. 45m (16) Step across a gutter onto the wall behind (don't fall) and follow the slab above to the top.

FA: B. Kennedy & D. Hain, 1975

Trad 240m, 6

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