Routes in Colo River

Climbs described left to right (east to west), facing the cliff. The following 7 routes are on the smaller, 40m wide wall that is reached first.

A: At the left hand end of the small cave in the middle of the slab.

4m right of A. 4 BRs through small overlap at top.

4m right of B

3m right of C

2m right of D

5m right of E at left edge of cave. 3 BRs, runout between 2nd and 3rd.

15m right of F on right edge of cave. 2 BRs up right edge of cave, then up left side of sharp arete past 2 more BRs. Chossy rock and poorly placed bolts - be careful!

A descent gully splits the crag at this point.

H: 15m right of G at twisted tree root

10m right of H (2m right of small cave). 5 BRs up slab and orange streak.

2m right of I

A big chossy cave starts here, high up on the wall.

K: 4m right of J, below cave. 1 BR in yellow slab, 1 BR in chossy roof (take care!), FH out on lip then 2 more BRs up headwall.

15m right of K (5m right of right hand edge of cave). 4 rusty BRs up slab and steeper headwall.

4m right of L. Hard start, then eases off after the 2nd bolt. 2 rusty BRs to vegetated corner. Take natural gear.

2m right of M. 4 rusty BRs then runout up high.

2m right of N. 3 BRs, runout between 2nd and 3nd (natural placements may be possible).

4m right of O. Up between small caves at half height. 4 BRs.

2m right of P. Over small overlap at half height (crux). 4 BRs.

3m right of Q. 3 BRs up slab to slimy, mossy headwall.

Short offwidth at far left hand end of the crag. Up to ledge. Up blocks.

1m right of A. Dirty, fused corner crack.

5m right of B below obvious splitter crack. Up pleasant hand crack to ledge. Meander up blocks to tree belay.

As for PMFM. Up low angled, right tending corner crack. BR out right near the top (on SSLT). Tree belay.

3m right of C. Marked (very faintly). Attractive blunt arete with 4 BRs (2nd and 3rd look dodgy). Tree belay.

4m right of SSLT. Vegetated offwidth

3m right of D. 4 BRs (2nd is dodgy)

4m right of E. Corner crack.

1m right of F. Left tending dirty offwidth.

Start as for 'Do You Feel Lucky, Punk?'. 3 BRs tending left (1st is dodgy).

Obvious corner crack in middle of crag. Straight up the crack and through the roof at the top. Sustained good moves and good rock the entire way up. Tree belay well back.

Start as for 'Do You Feel Lucky, Punk?'. 2 dodgy BRs tending right to arete, runout to third dodgy BR over bulge (hidden from the ground). Tree belay well back.

10m right of 'Do You Feel Lucky, Punk?', at twin cracks. 3 BRs tending left up middle of black wall.

As for J. Straight up the twin cracks then continue up the lovely thin crack above. Step right to WDY, or continue up dirty, chossy, runout headwall.

3m right of BB, below small left facing corner. Up the lovely crack / corner then step right to the thin splitter crack in the headwall (take care with pro). Tree belay.

3m right of WDY at thin, dirty corner crack. Up the crack without using the arete (which is quite contrived). Very technical with some very delicate bridging.

As for TESD. Up the crack, but using the arete to the right.

on the roadside boulder its the only climb up the side facing the road. approx middle of wall, follows the ironstone band heading up & right. follow carrots, take a broom...

starts near the middle of the back wall just left of 'terrible thomson twins' at new U-bolt, then follows 5 rusty carrot bolts trending up & left over rounded mantle bulge to finish standing on top.recommend taking a broom to sweep off all the pine needles before climbing. ignore the U-bolts near the arete with the double U-bolt anchor as this is an unfinished project.

5 dodgy looking carrot bolts up the middle of the face on the back left wall.

starts up face 3m left of offwidth, continues across vague prow to complex trickery through scoops to rounded mantle finish over top

The obvious corner off-width. 3 carrot bolts. Easiest to layback

the U-bolted arete 5m right of the corner off-width. the U-bolts are now glued in. project tagged...

10m right of cave, follow carrot bolts up initial wall then maneuver yourself up the technical friction slab above.

Closest climb to rd on back side of huge boulder, 3 RB over buldge to DRBB

Starts on the right side of cave, up head wall to first RB, then into roof heading left past 3 more RBs to DRBB at edge of cave shared with RDR.

Start as for UDMJ to clip it's first bolt, then bust out left and follow the shelf all the way to join RDR at its final moves. Rad.

Starts in the middle of the cave, follows obvious crack and pockets thru roof,passing 4BRs to DRBB at cave edge, Lower off here.(first bolt requires 90 degree plate as its hard to get others on). Can finish over lip, but dirty.

The line of hangers 2m left of Rainy day route. Finish by traversing in to the final moves of RDR

In the big cave about 150m past the toilet block. Start 5m R of roof crack (1976) below a little corner in a roof flake. New Ubolts. Go the top and backjump.

Roof crack

Climb wall to roof about 8m L of 1976, diag R thru roff to hard lip move. Old carrots. Backjump

Yellow wall leading to black rock about 10m L of Crabstick. Old carrots. Probably rap off a tree

Start to the right of the old faded safety message on the rock (hard to see). Follow the line of bolts to the left of the large cave.

3m right of SD. Straight up, Step left to slab and then finishing right up to larger bloodwood. Start can be rather dirty.

Straight up passing 2 BR's then move right to BR (hard to see) then up easier ground to large tree belay. Poor Bolts.

Line of bolts to the left of Shattered Dreams?

Follows the yellow streak to the right of cave. Straight up wall.

Start marked? Left hand end of large cave. Up over bulges past edge of cave. Move left slightly then straight up to belay off tree.

Start marked? To the right of SCS at left end of cave. Up to bolt moving right into cave. Out over roof and up.

Starts to the right of Bushy Corner at the left end of the cave. Over buldge to cave BR, then cam and up slab passing DRBB of bushy corner. Up slab with 2 more BR to finish at DRBB on ledge. (has cleaned up nice after it has seen a few more ascents in 2013)

The obvious left facing corner on main slab. Technical start leading to easy left facing corner. 5 BRs to DRBB.

Reachy crux. The line of Ubolts 2m left of Bushy Corner. Up wall past blocks then right to faint corner and up over roof to finish at lower off just below ledge.

6m right of Twisted Roots Up slab then easy and more runout past 1 BR to ledge and L or R to rap points

From the 3rd BR on pitch 2 of Abseil Wall, directly up and over roof to tree, 3 BR

About 4m right of TR. Hard crux move. Originally graded 19.

1. Up slab and slightly left to ledge past 9 BRs, left to DBB (or right to abseil point (25m))

2. Up and right on slab, across corner then left up wall 4BR, left to tree

2m right of twisted roots. Straight up wall then slightly L through roof, 9 BR to finish at abseil chain.

Corner on the left side of the slabs, probably the most obvious line on the main slab. Just do pitch 1. 1 15m Up the good corner past an inexplicable bolt runner. Best to lower off small chain in cave out right.

1. 20m Moving left along ramp to belay below fused orange corner.

2. 15m Up fused loose corner to old BR then move left past roofs on hideous rock. Also you'll disturb the falcons at the top of the corner.

The line of bolts to to the left of the obvious flake of Twisted Roots. High first bolt to start (can be protected with a cam). Straight up to short chain in small cave.

Nice slab climb with some thought provoking moves, Starts 2m left of Twisted Roots. Straight up wall into small corner, over ledge (Twisted Roots traverses here) and up to lower off. Rebolted on rings. Watch rope length.

The left line of bolts at the left side of the Grey slabs. About 6m L of Twisted Roots (the corner). P1. Follow the line of bolts past a desperate move to the ramp of Twisted Roots then follow bolts straight up (easy if you traverse R here to rap chain) with a hard move on smooth slabs under roof to abseil chain (40m) or P2. Heads diagonally right to top of cliff.

Start as for Little Red Rooster, up corner and right onto hard slab move. Up to tree and up right side of cave, past right side of abseil cave, hard pull at top and rap off tree.

A popular route; Start at right hand end of overhanging section in short corner then left a move and up orange slab and steepness into cave. Step R and clip bolt on lip, into cave and abseil point. Rebolted

Written up originally as a "a very popular route" - but in the 2020s it's looking lucky to get one ascent a year. You can go R after the first roof into the cave and rap off to make a good 18 (better rock) - or go direct through the stupendous choss to for a sand (baggy) 20. Start below Orange slab, 3m L of corner (Little Red Rooster) there is a faint chipped H 30cm below first BR. Desperate start, or haul through on 2nd bolt. Up slab to steep corner and onto slab. Up to scary choss cave out L then left to roof. Hand traverse right along lip to (high) lower off, 11 rings (rebolted).

Fun! Winds it way easily across the orange ramp/slab. Start about 10m left of orange rock at right end of steep crag (Hali),just right of thin tree (Yellow Bloodwood). Move up and right to BR at 6m on the arete of a little corner. Up onto ledge then up to next ledge and traverse to the cave and abseil point. Take gear to abseil (17m) on and know how to use it. A few runouts on easy ground. Rebolted on Ubolts.

The rock does not look inviting. Start behind thin Yellow Bloodwood. Up Space to Rent to 3 BR, then up through layered roofs

Extension to Great Lashings of Pleasure. Over roof. 2 carrots

Punchy roof moves. Start on orange coloured (firm looking) section of rock; about 20m R of Ethereal McCoy, just left of pair of thin Yellow Bloodwoods. Up short corner on left, swing left for a move then diagonally right past 7 Ubolts to lower off under roof. Rebolted this century. Take a brush as there's still some drill dust etc up top.

Up steep choss at left end of crag. SCramble up on right. After the overhang section pull onto wall with effort.

Corner crack at far left end of Crag, a few meters L of Ethereal McCoy. Scramble up, starts 12m above road

Scramble up to ledge 10m above road. 10m left of The Corner, 2m right of short bolted arete. A long route that picks it way to the top of the buttress.

1. 25m (12) Steep start from road onto slab. BR (neighbouring route) step right up thin crack. Tread right over loose blocks up to tree belay. Walk right 10m, scramble up to corner.

2. 10m (15) Up loose corner, at ledge go right up finger crack to tree belay. Walk up slope for 20m. Takes line between two caves.

3. 35m (15) Up slab trending right. Head left for 4m, sling thread, up overhanging strip between chossy caves. Tree. Climb up and left 3m, up off last ledge. 2m to top. Trees. Descent : Downclimb ledges to left (facing out), 2 abseils.

Wandery with big ledges, but fun. Some chossy rock, bring your fattest gym bunnies to clean it up. Can be done on a single 50m rope. Bring rap gear, helmets, 10 draws, and belay gear. Take your bags and other kit up the first pitch and leave them on the ledge as its off the road and a bit less likely to be stolen!

Starts straight off the road at the left end of the overhung wave of choss cliff, about 80m L of Hali and Little Red Rooster. About 400m from the bridge. Find short curving crack left of No Standing sign. Don't get run over belaying or rapping! Don't drop stuff on cars or the road, move it off the road if you do. Run away if you drop it on a car.

1- 14 10m Little curving crack to anchors on ledge.

2- 15 22m Up wall and rib to belay on edge (and potential lower off).

(Not really a pitch but you need to belay the first moves)-Belay 'leader' to get onto main ledge then walk up past rap anchor on tree and left 12m to ring on wall. Bring up second.

3- 16 15m Up crack and wall, right to rings on ledge. (this is the 2nd rap anchor on the way down)

4- 16 20m Right and up slabs,bulges, then just to get some air, traverse left over the leap on interesting rock. Belay on rap slings in tree.

Descent:

Rap 1 from maillon on sling 20m to previous belay.

Rap 2 from rings rap 15m, then walk or belay down to tree and sling.

Rap 3 25m from sling anchor to 1st belay. (Could do last 2 raps as one on a 70m rope, but rope may hang up on first ledge).

Rap 4 10m from rings to road

the king line on the block, comfy holds with a groovy sequence. Match start on far right pocket, traverse the two seams to the arete (lunch ledge footer is out), then straight up using arete and right face to the tippity top. (Don’t exit early for full value)

Jaime Williams (FA)

start as for the "inc" in pocket then head straight up sloper arete using left face and top out at the tippity top same as for the "inc"

Start as for the incubator, matched in pocket. Head straight into the lower seam, traverse it around the corner using lunch ledge footer staying low to finish as for “stand up and walk the gutter”.

Starts matched in on left hand side of the "Incubator" bottom slot around the corner directly below the gutter, stand up and walk out.

start directly below top out crack using left horn jug and right side pull crimp. head straight up past horizontal break into the vertical crack.

start left of "rock on cowboy" with right hand crimp and left in the scoop. traverse right to link up with "ROC" finish.

start matched in on slot and jug pocket. move up to horizontal break, traverse right along moby dicks jaw line then up the nose arete.

Start matched on arete sloper jug around the corner, follow the arete out and around to the peak for the top out.

Start on u shaped pocket and crimp side pull. Traverse lip and finish up last barnacle looking hold on right of boulder.

Sit start to “barnacles” on two side pull mingers. Dominique Geeen

Start as for barnacle and straight up slab.

Start as for the interchange, traverse along past first peak to top out via the second blunt peak.

Sit start between the two cracks, then straight up via pocket.

Crack pocket variant. Start on pinch and never ending pocket, then straight up.

Long traverse on lower seam to the vertical break then up. Match start in seam far right in the thrutch. Boulder is located up the gully between 'The interchange' and 'Crack pocket'