Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 3 attempts - with Softboi_core | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 8th Apr 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 2 attempts - with Eliezer | 6m | |||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant - with matan | 6m | |||||
Managed to link a few moves at the end. Ouch my ankle in the heel toe cam style thing
|
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Eliezer | 10m | |||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant - with matan | 6m | |||||
Another day another session. Got a new move with the help of a power spot. Also tried the second half again and it felt harder than I remembered.
Learnings I think are match hands as fast as possible, and the higher the lock-off the better |
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Onetoehookatatime | 10m | |||||
Session II
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Wed 6th Mar 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | Ecopoint ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 4 attempts - with Gustavo Barbosa, Shin | 10m | |||||
Mon 4th Mar 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Loving the autumn conditions. Another day another attempt on the eternal project
|
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V5 | ★ Veronika Voss | 3m | |||||
Think I've got the beta - toe hooks, match rail. High right hand, bump left. Right toe out, and finish on better holds with left hand
|
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V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Conditions much better. Starting to feel good on the first rail, speed is key. Finding locking off about 90 degrees or a little higher is good
|
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
High gravity day
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Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 8 attempts - with nroslan | 6m | |||||
Finding this is at my current finger limit. Would love to come back and finish when back to 100%
|
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V5 | ★★ Nut — 10 attempts | 1m | |||||
Ripped off some skin on this hut seems feasible
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 3 attempts | 6m | |||||
Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
still trying to get consistent on the crux moves
|
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V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
Fri 8th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 7 attempts | 6m | |||||
Wow got absolutely spanked
|
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Mon 4th Dec 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 3 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 3 attempts - with Cynthia F., Rodolfo Bertozo | 6m | |||||
Worked out the final move, just need to link it all together now
|
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 2 attempts | 6m | |||||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 Easy | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Henry, Luke Dennis | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dropped the last move! Come back when not tired.
|
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V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 2 attempts | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | |||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V5 | ★ Veronika Voss — 5 attempts | 3m | |||||
Made more progress than I expected. Nearly sent on the last go
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V5 | ★ Veronika Voss — 3 attempts | 3m | |||||
Made some progress on this, I can at least get off the ground.
|
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 20 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 17 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
V4 | ★★ Willy Messerschmidt — 2 attempts | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 4 attempts | 6m | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 6 attempts | 6m | |||||
Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 8 attempts | 10m | |||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack — 3 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor — 10 attempts - with Rupert Wallman | 6m | |||||
Struggling at the crux
|
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V0 | ★ Whale, Whale, Whale, What Do We Have Here | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | |||||
Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Rupert Wallman | 10m | |||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 4 attempts - with Rupert Wallman | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 5 attempts | 10m | |||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Felt surprisingly good on this and hit a new highpoint? Lowpoint because it's a traverse?
Half crimping instead of 3 finger drag seemed to help a lot. Also bringing my body around and max arm lockoff for first move. Downside is I'm far enough into the climb I need another pad |
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Mon 10th Jul 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack - with Eliezer | 3m | |||||
feet left, reach for right jug, cross up with left, get to the two level good crimps, right to the shite crimp, left foot out and drop knee, slap for bottom sloper, clench anus, bump left to top jugs
|
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V1 | ★ 9. - with Eliezer | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Eliezer | 10m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Anthony Mackay, matan | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
tried it with a harder beta, got through the crux and pumped out before the last few holds
|
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 | 6m | |||||
V0 | ★ Red Dusk | 3m | |||||
Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 | 6m | |||||
Shut down, couldn't figure out arete section
|
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | |||||
Tried again, some new beta. New highpoint but no send.
|
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 12th May 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor - with Anthony Mackay | 6m | |||||
Session 5
Getting quicker with the micro adjustments - right hand and feet, adjust left hand. Still not sure what causes me to hit the rail amazingly vs swing off. Next moves feeling more doable |
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Fri 5th May 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Making progress. Micro beta of pulling left hand closer before matching. Also locking off right about 90 degrees and minimising swing. Once I match moving the right hand quickly to the next hold
|
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Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2 | ★ 13. - with Eliezer | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★ 6 - with Eliezer | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Made good progress, stuck the first hard move by locking off on right arm
|
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 5 attempts - with Hyakatan | 10m | |||||
Kept getting pumped out and unable to move the feet after getting through the middle section
|
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Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | |||||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 5 attempts - with Hyakatan | 10m | |||||
Got in two parts. Next time.
|
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V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 2 attempts | 10m | |||||
Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant — 9 attempts | 6m | |||||
Worked on the first half.
Got all the moves for second half
|
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Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V5 | ★ Veronika Voss — 3 attempts | 3m | |||||
Feeling good on the crimps - getting closer
|
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 5 attempts | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 — 4 attempts - with James vilimaa | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Lola | 3m | |||||
Some good attempts
|
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V5 | ★ Veronika Voss | 3m | |||||
Thought I sent it, but used the middle break which is off.
Secret sauce was transforming bat hang -> left heel hook |
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Lola | 3m | |||||
Got all moves, just need to link
For middle transition, I leaned over fairly hard to the left and locked off as much as I could on the tiny sloper crimp, and then a small dynamic movement with the right hand to hit the lips |
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V6 | ★★★ Slug Nut | 4m | |||||
advice that helped:
hips out first motion, jump second motion, done in a rolling manner Up with right hand |
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Lola | 3m | |||||
Need strong fingers and to be able to pull powerfully through the right leg
|
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack — 5 attempts | 3m | |||||
i could not slap
|
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V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse — 2 attempts | 10m | |||||
sharp holds no feet
|
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Gotten a full beta, opted to go for power on the right hand side instead of crimps - might refine beta further
|
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 18th Sep 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack | 3m | |||||
Putting together an efficient beta, and need to link all parts.
Use crimps for the middle, a bad left hand sloper for the top, and then right hand jug to top out |
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Slug Nut - with Jasmine Johnson, Patrick Sparks | 4m | |||||
Struggling with the move up to the jugs before the dyno, seems like a powerful move with the heel hooks.
|
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
low feet & crimping branches
|
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Mon 25th Oct 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2 V2/3 | ★★ 2/3 - with Phil Evans | 6m | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor - with Phil Evans | 6m | |||||
Tue 5th Oct 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Spider-Peg, David de Miguel | 10m | |||||
Wed 29th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stills close to an accurate definition of "impossible".
|
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Mon 27th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Progress...my fingers are destroyed and there is no sign anymore of my pride, but at least I was able to match hands on that first move, I need to be quicker if I want to be able to stick it. When this goes it is going to feel good!
|
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Sun 26th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I'm working on a different variant now using smaller crimps!
|
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Thu 23rd Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor - with Derek Lai | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Veeeeery hard move to start and match the hands in an almost non existing crimp without space between you and the ground. Needs some work...
|
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Mon 13th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I've started to work it out right to left, it feels lot easier than the other direction and should be able to link them next time.
|
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Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Extractor - with Mitchell Mack | 6m | |||||
Matched on the first tiny crimp and got the next move once. Really hard!
|
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
(Left-Right) Forth week working on this... I'm getting closer but still I suffer too much on the crux. Yesterday I learned a new beta and started using a new hold that may be the key.
|
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Fri 27th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This traverse is really taking all my skin!
|
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Fri 20th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Derek Lai | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Joined a few more moves that includes a super deep drop knee. Need to work on it a bit more.
|
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Wed 11th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Slap Jack | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I couldn't hold the slopper. I think it is a combination of being tired (25%) and my poor feet technique (75%).
|
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V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse - with Derek Lai | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 10th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | |||||
Mon 9th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V2 | ★ 12. - with Derek Lai | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V2 | ★ 12. - with Derek Lai | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 5th Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V6 | ★★ The Extractor Variant | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got all the moves, just need to link it. Great line and very pumpy
|
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V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
R to L, pumpy.
|
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Queens Park | |||||||
Left Hand Side | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse | 10m | ★★ Very Good |