Routes as trad in Fourth Breakaway

Start: A crack at the right hand end of a smaller buttress, before you get to the main part of the cliff.

Up fist to offwidth crack and through slight roof to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Pride of Errand’.

Good jams to slightly overhung top section.

Start: At the far right on the main part of the breakaway. 2m right of ‘Twist’.

Up crack, around flake, then up to top.

Start: The first good-looking short hand-jam crack.

Follow crack to top. Tree belay, rap off.

Start: 2m left of ‘Twist’.

Tricky start.

Finger crack to ledge. Up hand jam crack to slightly overhanging blocks to tree, as for Twist.

Start: 2m left of ‘Fox Trot’.

Bridge up crack and detached block, up finger crack and slightly overhanging off width to top.

Start: At base of isolated column, 1m left of ‘Sly’.

Up space between column and main face to top of column, exit on right.

Start: At base of thin crack 1m right of ‘Fidget’.

Bridge on pillar to right and join crack higher up.

Start: 10m left of ‘Sly’, a good looking fist jam crack.

Up crack to top.

Start: 3m left of ‘Fidget’.

Originally done with an aid rest at 3/4 height, this was eliminated on the second ascent by M. Colyvan, Mar 1981.

Up off width to top.

Start: 5m left of ‘Resurrection Shuffle’

Up off width to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Speakeasy’.

Up off width in corner, bridging moves near top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Puke’.

Up crack opening to offwidth, followed by flake to ledge. Cruise (with some panic) through some mank and chossy rock, slightly to the right of flake, finish on ledge, to top. Heave a sigh of relief.

Start: As for ‘Liquid Laughter’.

Up as for ‘Liquid Laughter’ but avoid offwidth by traversing right into chimney of ‘Puke’. Then to top as for ‘Puke’.

Start: 3m left of Proteus.

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe, Mar 81.

Up the finger crack to just before chossy overhang, step up then out left around bulge and on to top.

Start: 3m left of ‘Anyone for Tennis’.

Up twin cracks then carefully right to horrendous exit via a small tree.

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

Start: The only worthwhile crack between ‘Knuckleduster’ and ‘Backdoor Man’.

Follow the crack.

Start: Directly right of ‘Backdoor Man’.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed by M. Colyvan and G. Croft, July 8

Bridge and jam up through roof to top.

Start: 10m left of ‘Knuckleduster’.

Throws off many a leader.

Good jams to a small roof, followed by layaways to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Backdoor Man’.

An impressive 1.5m roof, an Ebor classic.

Up to roof, around left-hand side into jam crack. Follow this to ledge and then on to top.

Start: 3m left of ‘Rooflet’.

One of the more interesting Ebor routes.

Up knuckle/hand crack to wall moves at top.

Start: Possibly 3m left of ‘Brown Buffalo’.

Straightforward jams to top.

Start: About 15m left and around the corner from ‘Brown Buffalo’ and about 10m right of the waterfall.

Thin jams to roof, then good jams to difficult exit.

Start: On the other side of the waterfall left of ‘Sleight of Hand’, a gradually widening finger crack.

Follow crack to top.

Start: Next line left of ‘Domination Quickstep’.

Originally done with a single aid rest but was freed on its second ascent by B.Birchall and E.Sharpe, Feb 1982.

Up fine crack to horizontal break; difficult step into crack on left, follow this to top.

Start: Next line left of ‘Transactional Burnout’.

Layback and jam to top.

Start: Left of ‘Part of the Scenery’.

Bridge and jam to top.

Start: Left of ‘Nasal Drip’.

Bridge and jam to top.

Start: left of ‘Jungle Gym’.

Originally done with an aid rest freed by E. Sharpe and B. Birchall June 1981.

Hand jam crack to top.

Start: The short off-width at the extreme left of the cliff.

Up off width.

Thin start protected by a tiny cam just where you want your hand. Up face through 3 bolts avoiding the easier cracks to both sides. Finish with gear as for 'Fox Trot'.