Routes in Eyre Peninsula

This novelty traverse is just after the low angle descent gulley as you turn right (North). Its separate to the large north boulder. Traverse L to R or vice versa

Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it.

Same start as for RBTT. Delicate moves up slab, gain good holds in crack and fire up the nose with good jams and a tricky exit out through the right crack.

Gymnastic wide crack 3m L of Oyster Pie.

Begin up the zigzag crack 1.5m L of the main line.

Start up Dr Dre to the break (3m). Ensure you listen to your tutor regarding whether a lock is pinky up or pinky down, then layback and finger lock your way up the seam. Super fun!

Finger/hand crack 6m L of Melting in the Sun

Climb the middle of the wall 2m R of G.

Easily up the L side of the slab to a shallow curving corner. Above this step R for a runner and continue. Small/medium wires and cams.

Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish.

Climb the wall 1m R of the 'Joe/col' graffiti on jugs to reach a short tapering crack and ledge. The thin crack above is no pushover either.

Same start as the 'Dr Dre's', then traverse far left into the easy corner.

Straight up through the curving corner and the step. Easy but poorly protected climbing up the water streak to finish.

Jugs 2m R of KC lead to testing face climbing.

This climb is on the large buttress to the (climbers) left of the Green Room and descent gully. Delicately up then L (optional direct start with good moves but limited pro) to gain the straight hand crack. Optional short crack in summit boulder to finish (recommended).

The crack 2m R of DO.

The huge crack up the otherwise blank face of the boulder near the summit. Gradually constricting crack ranging from squeeze chimney at bottom down to finger crack at top.

An amazing outing up the seam and corner! A very spicy lead and just as enjoyable as a TR. Bring micro nuts for the first half.

Stem across to large footer and pre-place a good #3 BD nut before launching up the seam (options for smaller back up nuts also). Boulder problem leads you left into the corner, another foot or so allows for some micro nut placements (Kong#2 and BD#4, smaller options exist also). Up fun corner with solid gear, mantle, and up final short crack. Great!

Start at short LH corner 2m R of The Birds and the Bees. Climb to the top of the thin layback seam, traverse left into alcove under large perched block. Layback or jam perched block and up overhanging crack in summit boulder. Excellent quality and solid for the grade!

Good climbing 1m R of S.

Finger crack on front of large pointy outcrop 40m east of summit cairn.

Crack system up front of most prominent outcrop 200m south of summit cairn and 50m east of track.

Crimpy slab has been cleaned and dangerous blocks removed. Has been TR at about grade 18/19? Will need bolts in the first half to be lead. Finish up crack on left and up easy slab on top. Climbs really well!

Prominent left trending seam and crack. From the road it's the most obvious line at Greenly. Hard fingers to start, great stemming, jamming and lay backing to finish.

Kelly did 3 rounds with the boxthorn tree growing out from the bottom, even a midnight shift on the secateurs. Finally on the 4th round he got to tie in and do battle. A must do squeeze chimney, Yosemite-ish, pants recommended. Mount the box thorn stump and chicken wing and thrust your way up, slinging boulders as you go. Hard to grade, blue collar work, add 10 grades if you’ve never done a squeeze chimney before.

Wide crack just R of Four in a Day. Stem outside or get in and wriggle up to the old giant beehive, step R and exit.

Start up the crux seam as for Green Room, after this instead of going left, trend up fun crack on the right to slab up top. Up the slab and mount final bulge with finger crack in it. Great gear and a much better finish to Green Room

Crack and layback 12m left of The Green Room. Layback start flake and mantle ledge. Up twin cracks with a funky exit out of the right crack.

Begin on the L side of the overhanging buttress. Traverse R to scoops in the face then follow the line to the top.

Short but fun. Up crack behind cave on the far right end (Southern end) of Northern end area.

The right hand line on the very first prominent buttress on the NW ridge. Up the slab as you discover hidden jugs, semi-mantle top out.

The fingers and seam crack on flat wall 2m right of Beehive crack.

Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC.

The leftward seam starting 3m R of 3 in a Day. Up slab, follow seam left and finish as for 3 in a Day. Hard to place gear on lead.

Distinct bulging crack 10m right of 'The Nose'. Great hand jamming from tight hands, hands, fists and a nice flairing top. Flaired sections keep it interesting. Watch out for big block sitting on a ledge at halfway. Bring #2 and #3 cams Amazing!

4m right of stank, wide crack, into slabby bum faces to mantle top out. Easy fun

Prominent crack, the first part is the trickiest, other than that an easy climb with plenty of holds but has poor pro.

1m right of spike, up blocky face into spike at the top

2 m right of "Dodgy Gardens"

2m Right of 'Morning Hayes'. Up face and slab with small good edges, easy finish

A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner.

2m right of "Lofty Heights" The crux is the blank wall with good hands, some traversing and maneuvering here is needed.

Closed Project between choccy bar crack and green room. All moves have been done on TR, start needs a bolt or 2. Super technical, probably 28/29

Left leaning crack 3m Right of Sunstone. Great laybacking and jamming, finish as for Sunstone.

Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang

Small fingers crack 2m Right of Big Bambi. Some good locks and laybacks with no feet, except the crack. Small in size but climbs well and packs a punch! Add two grades if you start right from the ground without stepping up and using the block to the left.

The juggy arete 3m to the R provides a variant start to Jabberwocky.

Prominent LH corner on the southwest flank of the mountain. Look for a large boulder on the slope 50m below the cliff. The climb is behind it, slightly to the R. Start directly.

Start as for Twilight Sailing and head up and L across the wall with minimal protection. Finish up the arete.

Finish up the hand crack just L of Rainbow Corner.

Follow bolts up the wall L of Victorian's Crack.

Drop me a PM.

The wide crack several metres L of Rainbow Corner. Start as for that route.

Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it.

Marked with ERC at the base of the climb.

Amongst the first major collection of outcrops south of the mid point of the ridge, 150m north of the big buttresses of the southwest flank. The climb is at the top of a short wide gully near the centre of the crag. Up the chimney to the roof, bellyflop R and continue.

Initialled, 7m R of Victorian's Crack. Start up the crack then finish L up the ramp.

4 m right of Oyter Pie, several different routes can be taken. Lots of holds, great for beginner leading.

Start as for Tiny Titties but move 50cm R and finish straight up the crack.

4 m right of 'Guns Get Down', Narrow crack

Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock.

The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.)

2m right of Coffin Cheater Slabby, crimpy holds to begin

Corner 5m R of Watchful Eyes then the headwall on the R.

Small buttress 20m right (South) of Straight Hander. Start up large jam crack, into slab offwidth and easy to top. Fun and easy entry into trad for beginners

Attractive corner-crack just R of the gully.

Much tried in '76. Several metres left of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab.Go to it.

This was assumed to be a different climb when first attempted by Wimbush & Garrett, with the description below given: Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse.

Large wall 15 right (South) of 'Green Room'. Start up wide layback crack on right, tricky move up then traverse left 3m to jam crack. Regurgitate your notes you took in the hand jam clinic 3 minutes ago and fire up to the top. Exit out a little corner at the top. Super fun!

R-tending crack then corner to finish.

Prominent R-facing corner on west side of south end of ridge (towards L end of first crag of reasonable size). 5 mins walk from carpark (250m).

After the bouldery start, head up slightly R to a V-notch at the top.

The outstanding direct route up the centre of the main face.

Easy to the obvious ledge, then delicate face climbing on small flakes (crux). Balancy moves to the top and easy finish.

Could do with bolting.

On the edge of Oyster Pie, awesome climb and a lot of fun! The crux is the bulge 4m up!

The R-trending line of 5 bolts to a ledge at 15m (belay possible). Best value if you stay below / R of the bolts. Note there isn't an abseil station at the ledge and the climbing above is grade 1 with little protection.

Start 6m L of Never Never Land and follow 3 bolts (take care clipping the second) to join NNL at the step. Abseil off the 4th NNL bolt if you like.

Bolted face route just R of T.

Left hand pocket and right hand sloper.

Start as for Pocket Crack and traverse left on crimps into Chopped Nuts

Sit start on overhanging arete 3m right of Silverchair

Easy pocketed crack. Good as a part of the warm up circuit on this wall

LH variant

Sit start in big crack with large side pull and right foot in crack. Move out left to nice Weaco's.