Routes in Fleurieu Peninsula

Amble up a metre R of Nesta del Crow.

Rap down behind the top of the Buster Hymen block to find a slab system that looks about grade 14. Referred to as Mer Sea in the Nick Neagle guidebook.

From the start of Octopus's Garden, head up the crack past two bolts. Finish up the orange arete past one more. Take medium cams.

The large split boulder on the right of the descent route to Mal De Mer. Climb the off width crack that runs up the centre. Some flakes are brittle, and there is no pro so it's best to use an anchored spotter as a fall could be serious.

As for Baudin to the hollow scoop slab. Take the steep left line past 3 ring bolts. 3 hangerless bolts available for the anchor belay.

The extension to GMB to the Achilles chain hasn't had a lead ascent as yet.

The curving flake on the western smaller boulder makes for a nice traverse. Start at the R end and wander across.

Both leader and second belay on the ground.

The all too obvious crackline rising up by 'the bath' left of Smooth Sailing/Lost Socks requiring a mixture of trad and bolts. Grade 15 to the first anchor then continue up the crackline as it thins out and leads into the junction of Smooth Sailing. Finish as for that route.

Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.

Start at the crack 1m L of Albatross. Up to join the L-leading diagonal crack to Crow's Nest and finish up that climb.

Up the middle of the smaller boulder, crossing 'Bill and Erik's Big Adventure'

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

Not really a variant - just the start of True North. An all trad affair to the first anchor and an excellent lead for the grade.

Rap down the Mer Sea slab (current guidebook definition). Twin cracks L of Mer Sea to a ledge then the slab past a bolt.

An inferior route to Smooth Sailing linking Lost Socks start (contrived) into Smooth Sailing.

A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last!

Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top.

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

The splitter crack on the left hand side of the wall.

Begin at the base of the big, slightly L-curving corner midway between In To Deep and Man Overboard (abseil in). Move 2m L, clip a bolt (BD .1 cam below it if required), make a tricky move up L into the vertical crack and continue more easily.

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

From the start of Octopus’s Garden, climb the incipient crack one step R of the big corner. Gain the main groove on the buttress and finish up R.

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.

Vertical thinnish crack system 5m L of Man Overboard, beginning from a handy stance (abseil in).

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

Start directly below the final offwidth of Celeste, on the ramp as for High and Dry. Climb the steep crack system to the slab. Finish up the offwidth crack of Celeste. Hangerless bolt belay above on the Baudin arete.