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description

A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.

  1. 35m 22 Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.

  2. 15m 21 Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.

  3. 28m 21 Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

Route history

1994First ascent: S. Edward's & S. Eberhard

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -41.66645, 147.98861

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 Craglets
22(S) private
24 [23 - 24] ++ grAId

ethic

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (fingalvalley@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

inherited from Fingal Valley

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81 from 37 ratings.

Difficulty - 22

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

22

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 10
Flash 1
Red point 2
Tick 7
Attempt 13

Comment keywords

reachy weird short jugs roof easy feet technical crack traverse rest awkward lip face difficult crux sustained solid pumped hard runout fall terrifying brilliant beautiful fun awesome perfect super classic great good cool amazing

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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