Ascents in The Secret Cave as various tick types by Tom Reid

Done all the moves now although need to refine the top section. Also need to actually train!

Picked this as my get back on the horse project. Steep, fingery and punchy. Got some work to do!

A very worthy addition IMO, got it first shot- though the transfer is only 1 move so I didn’t need any new beta- could be a great one to send first if you’re transistioning from 25-27.

I feel bad I took so long to do this one- it’s excellent, better than the original in my opinion, plus more consistent and slightly harder. Get in it!

Really fun, joins the best bits of 2 routes via some great pockets. Whoevers draws are on at the moment, I think the ending is way easier if you clip the second last bolt early from the double kneebar, and then skip the last and power through rather than vice versa. Nice one Dan!

Dan let me check out his new route. It's great!

Nice to clean this up first shot, After trying it once almost 6 months ago

EOD destroyer.. to the crux throw clean, then airborne

Another great route I never got around to doing. First try today.

Kept going after French connection.. made it a few bolts before melting

Warm up, still love this route.

Was cool to do this placing the draws.

Warm up

First shot fumble at the crux clip and came off 2 moves later.. second go nailed every move, and though I was tired I squeezed like a bastard til I arrived at the jugs with a dry mouth and stars in my eyes... kneebar til my leg was numb then pumped it to the chain. Epic, brutal power climbing up this original king line.

warm up

Oh so close! arrived at the underclings below jug city, didn't bring my heel up BEFORE my right hand and was exploding too much to push through what is a piss easy move off the rope.

Warm up

3 goes, and a few false starts. Couldnt nail the beta when I was fresh and conditions were amazing unfortunately, I just need one or two more sessions with good conditions for 'that clip'..

Putting a rope up for Jack to take pics

First shot, bad. Not warmed up, and spoogy. Worked the moves a bit. 2nd, too spoogy to clip the 3rd. Dogged the clip, then to anchor clean. Sweaty day..

Warm ups

3 burns, 2nd shot went from the crux clip to the anchor clean. 3rd shot went from the ground to the jug at the end of the hard stuff clean! Psyched.

2 sits, putting draws up so rob saved his energy

EOD training lap

3 goes, working beta and clipping positions. surprised myself going from the 2nd bolt to the 5th clean on 3rd go!

EoD. Put the draws up and had a play. The business is only 4 clips long, and it's hard! Little holds, lots of tension. Seems like V8-V9 then the top of Dr Pepper isn't too bad.

Fell going to the anchor on the flash.. tricky body position there! 2nd shot all g and kept on trucking for a few clips into the extension but blew up over the lip

Draws down!

Warm up, kept going a few metres toward entergalactic for some fun before jumping off

Well..ain't that a great feeling! I usually dog it once to get in the groove a bit.. today I just decided to have a go straight up. Next thing I know, I'm in the air after tickling the last hold! mixed emotions.. wondered if I'd even be able to get up there again the same day. I waiting a bit over an hour, tied in, and set off- latching the crux with only the back 3, kept going, til I was staring down the barrel again.. stabbed blindly over the lip for the slot, one finger missed out again but I was still on! Torquing the heel toe like a bottle opener, I didn't dare try adjust my grip.. "just clip the fucking rope" I thought. And I did. Now it's time for a big ass burger.

EOD pumparama

2 shots, well- I stuck the crux from the ground finally! But, a combination of surprised/excited fumbling afterward wasted a bit of tension, and after clipping I dropped the big 'easy' Dyno after the crux. So, breakthrough, but no cigar still! Gahh

EOD destruction.. I made it through the last crux, started making kettle boiling sounds, tried to clip telepathically then went flying.

I wonder if I'll ever send this route? EOD rescue of Killa Kilsbys draws til his finger heals.

Not yet! 4 goes.

Managed 4 goes, so that's good. Inching closer, just catch that damn edge already! Managed to climb from the crux to the anchor and clip it on my last burn.. So that's good

Warm up

Warm up

One dog first up, had a good crack next, same high point but much more convincing. I got my whole hand to the hold but only 2 fingers landed on the positive edge and 2 on the slope.. So I fell. Felt like I was ready to keep chugging though. Second go came up short again as I didn't get the sidepull that good. Pulled back on, stuck the crux even though my feet came off which was surprising, and fell on the last move. Running out of good weather now

Up to the 2nd crux you bit for a warm up

1warm up lap and one attempt. Same high point.

Actually a really great route! Had a great attempt at a flash after belaying Dan, fell off transferring my weight to the jug! Then went to anchor clean. Doh! Second shot no worries.

A messy, footloose, no kneebar ascent.

Got the beta right for the hard bits, fumbled madly below the last bolt and almost ran out of pump coins.

2 shots, note to self: don't be dumb and go up without a warm up! Felt a bit weak today..

Last climb, STILL never attempted this route fresh. I dunno why. I think its been a year since I last had a go.

A warm up go and one send burn, just a quick day before the Boulder comp on Sunday. Same high point of big left throw.

Warm up

3 goes, after 3 weeks off. First one to get reacquainted, 2nd I had a burn and didn't latch the side pull.. Felt quite good but lacking muscle memory for those few moves.. Third go sat at the kneebar before the traverse, and climbed clean to the very last move, with a slight bit of wasted time clipping after the crux run out (gulp). That's a solid over lap for me, showing I can do all the hard stuff in a row. If I do the bottom fresh and efficient, could get really close to the anchor!

Had a go in the approach shoes EOD. Overgripping and cutting feet like a madman I fell at the top crux

Dogged for a warm up, second shot got the sidepull for once, sucked my feet up, took the intermediate, and juuuust dropped the big LH move. Foot stayed in the hole as I fell, tipped head first and dove at the floor. After skipping 2 clips. 3rd shot I got the sidepull again, but was to buggered to dunk

Seconded to get my draws off it after Cal had some fun. Rested a bunch of times. Unclipping the 3rd was a bit scary on 2nd!