Showing all 8 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | ★ Southern Parapet
The route starts just below the South Col. Follow obvious ridge up and once it steepens go straight up to the summit. FA: R Sykes & M Douglas, 1963 | 200m | |||
17 | ★★★ The Chimes of Freedom
By no means a thorough description. For further information buy a guidebook. No idea about pitch lengths. This route eats hexes. Otherwise single rack from smallest c-3's to #3, with double #1 and double #2 for pitches 4 and 5. Depart hikers track to summit on faint trail leading to base of walls, head over spur and down across big wall all the way to loose scree chute, up this with care, under detached pinnacle at top, across with care until under right leaning ramp creating left facing corner. Approx 1.5hr approach from Tahune hut. The lines infamous traverse pitch can be spied from here as the piece of rock between two respective crack systems.
FA: John Ewbank & John Moore, 1968 FFA: C Dewhirst & D Neilson, 1970 | 270m, 10 | |||
16 M4 | Valerie
FA: C Dewhirst, John Ewbank, J Moore & P Stranger, 1968 | 390m, 14 | |||
16 | ★★ The Sydney Route
1
36m
2
36m
3
18m
4
36m
5
24m
6
30m
7
30m
8
30m
9
16
21m
10
33m
11
30m
12
30m
13
30m
To get to the start, walk up main scree couloir below SE Face, from its base scramble up and right to belay on bollard below vegetated crack just left of small buttress
FA: Bryden Allen † & Jack Pettigrew, 1965 | 380m, 13 | |||
14 | ★★ The Sydney Route Direct Start
The preferred start for most parties as it avoids most of the vegetation of the original route.
FA: Bryden Allen † & Reg Williams, 1972 | 62m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ The Melbourne Variant
Variant finish to the Sydney Route. Pitches 1-7 as for The Sydney Route
Pitches 12-13 as for The Sydney Route FA: C Baxter & C Dewhirst, 1968 | 370m, 13 | |||
18 | ★ Brisbane Line
FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Phil Dolan, 1989 | 300m, 13 | |||
19 | ★ The Newcastle Expressway
A very direct start to the Sydney route, starting to the north. Pitch 1 50 m Just to the left of the lowest part of the cliff, which coincides with E face changing to SE face is a grassy knoll. Scramble up this from the north to the first sloping terrace. Stepped rock with an incipient line heads up left, nearly meeting with the top of the knoll 2m up-it would be possible to step right from the high part to join the line. Up trending slightly left with spaced gear, back right at 15 m above a threader, then left aiming for a fused open book corner under a roof. Near the roof at 40 m step left around a blunt arete for 2 m to belay in a small alcove on small cams . Good quality rock. Spaced gear. P2 30 m straight up from belay to short corner (small wires) then step right onto featured slab . Up into stemming groove exiting left then step right onto wall and straight up to arrive at top of chasm where P 3 of Sydney route starts. FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, Feb 2021 | 80m, 2 |
Showing all 8 routes.