Ascents of The Lorax

Goddamn what a route, most exposed position I've ever been in and biggest and most beautiful wall I've seen, so fucking sick. Have so much appreciation for everything now. Was wigging at that exposure, was tired, cooked finger etc. it's just about getting to the top of the cliff. Lowered off crux and lee went up, ledge traverse was nuts exposed!! Sick route, 15.5 hours on the wall with party of 3 and a bit of fucking around. Full write up in tahune hut logbook

A serious undertaking! Spent 15 hrs on the wall total as a party of three, only the last pitch in the dark thankfully. Roped up first pitch 'scramble' was wet and sketchy, the crux pitch felt a bit harder than 20 and the traverse was my favourite part- the only actual 3 star part of the climb. Gets three for the location and length though. Was in my head about the last two sparsely protected pitches, but after getting to them the gear was better than anticipated with modern RP's and microcams. Still have to pull a few hard moves above minimal gear, but the challenge is route finding. An epic day out with two good friends, lots of traumatic bonding and appreciating life through the taste of death.

What a day! What a route!

Lead free: 4, 5 and 7

Wild wild wild, an astonishing effort by Peter and Garn.

Lead onsight alternating with Steve, the access pitch is horrendous and would highly recommend roping up for it, first few pitches are loose and spacey gear common to be 10m+ between pieces, money pitch is stonker gear, brining the belay 4m under the cave is highly recommended good belay and straight line to next belay, the ledge traverse is insanity, on the traverse pitch for belay definitely step around the arete to big ledge good gear in corner.

We were pretty casual about it and naive in hindsight started at 9am 12 hours on the wall 14 1/2hrs hut to hut topped out in the dark.

An emotional roller coaster, extraordinary position, classic line..... wow!

80% headspace, 20% climbing, min distance between protections feels like 10m

Probably the most significant ascent of my climbing life to date. An astonishing route in a breathtaking location taking the middle of the highest vertical cliff in the country.

I have solo'ed heaps of stuff in my time, but I do not recommend solo'ing up to the start as per the guide. Too much vegetation, too much loose stuff and too wet. Instead, park yourself directly under the super-shiny slab near the top of the broken cliff and lead it normally up to there. It's 60m from the ground and places you in the right spot for the rest of the route.

From there, it's all climbing to the top. Pitch 1 was okay, 2 was a nice crack / corner ramp, 3 was a highlight (correctly graded at 20 and the gear is good, but you'll still want a very good head). Pitch 4 is the outrageous traverse which teases you when you have to leave the ledge - something I'll never forget. Pitch 5 is a good clean crack and pitch 6 starts with the hardest moves on the route through the rooflet. Pitch 7 was fun - we were running out of daylight so I speed-led it in ~10 minutes or so to top out on one of the great finishes ... you climb right to the very top of the cliff and belay with your feet hanging over 400m of air. Finished with the last light of the day and made it back to the hut in the dark.

Led pitches 0, 2, 4, half of 6, and 7. One of the great moments for me.

Some serious alpine stuff. Better be prepared and do easier rout first. Otherwise unforgettable experience...

Kudos to David Tan for leading every pitch. Quite an adventure. Smoothly executed by the methodical cool headed Canadian. Outrageous climb. Crux crack pitch and the traversing pitches afterwards were the highlights.

Lead every pitch in a 12 hour hut to hut mission. The crack and traverse pitchs are incredible. Every other pitch was loose, mossy, and poorly protected....

Tim onsighted every pitch. I had a good old rest at the crux. Mega weekend out