★ Breakfast of Champions 17

Magnificently overhanging. More awkward than technical. Sustained. Start: The obvious big overhanging line under the nose of the Lions Head, seen clearly when approaching the North Col from Tahune. Scramble up from the North Col across and up into the big cave. Good nut belay on L, out of stonefall line.

1. 30m. Up to the big triangular block. Chimney out under it and up on to loose blocks. Bridge up to obvious traverse R . Across on shattered rock then hand traverse line to sharp nose. Up the line to top. (Double rope useful.)

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.