Ascents of Black Light as Red point

What a battle! Feels good to finally do it on lead. Crazy to think how far I've come since the first time I tried those thin hands. Still feels pretty stiff for the grade and 23 would probably be more accurate

Had one bit of pre-placed gear to save the ankles. Happy with this after doing top rope, red point and pink point burns. Realized there were some small face features on the top crack which helped lots

Had a two goes at the start

Very classy climbing. First bits of gear pre placed but placed the rest

Came with the intention of sending in the cool morning light. Done. Still very sweaty in the crux, but I'd rehearsed this climb enough to send in pretty controlled style. As usual, finding all the possible rests for drink breaks..! So happy with my progress this year- from being scared and over protecting to sending this hard 22 after 2 seconds and 3 lead attempts.

Got the send yewww Had to really give it some for the .5 section Will be working more crack endurance this season

Got the send yewww Had to really give it some for the .5 section Will be working more crack endurance this season

Had done on second a bit over a year ago. Got through the start and weird slab ok, thought it was all over from there. My memory was mistaken, really had to fight through the top half!

First at the frog grade!

Ny only lead fall of the trip. Came off on the start, lowered back down and went to the top. Super fun and surprisingly insecure up the slab fingerlocks

Fell off after a foot slip at the start on the onsight and ripped out a red X4 and hit the ground. Sent straight after

Eyed this up many times as I've walked past. Beautiful!

Slipped off the start, came to the ground, sent it from there. 90% onsight. Superb committing climbing on fingerlocks.

Stunning.

Decked placing my second piece, first piece ripped. Wasn't focused. Got back on and jittered my way cleanly to the top.

With Brother Colin. Planned to do Hard Nose but couldn't figure out how to get on the arete. Doh!Continued up Black Light instead.

I'll never get sick of repeating this one

With Cate. To do the thin hand section I put my weight against the wall on the left by pressing my right foot off little foot holds on the right face. God the start is great. 26 Sept 04 with Cate. Ode to Black Light: It's reputation, gave me trepidation, I thought the start might screw me; But it went OK, and what went astray, was a thin hand jam that threw me.