Ascents of Lord of the Flies

Got tired, stuck, more tired, stuck again.

Unexpected OW is the best type of OW. Thought I was on Rack and Ruin

The tree mantle is classic!

Wish the finger crack went for longer

Missed the onsight by 6 beads of sweat in a hand jam

The starting crack is hard... maybe one day will work it out!

punted off the finger crack trying new teckers. Should have kept plugging NO LAYBACKING. Rest went free! definatly should have brought more larger cams, as i 'was' the protection mostly. awesome fun

The finger crack is the great the offwidth battle above is not

Enjoyable off-width with plenty of feature to keep the thrutching dignified. Took a sit down low in the fingers but otherwise clean

Really enjoyed this. Big gear required, but not much mandatory wide climbing. Took 4 #4's and a #5 and that was adequate.

What an epic route, a bit of everything from thin hands to some old school wide cracks.. not much actual off width needed (I would say you don't really need a 5 unless youre running short of #4's, however beware of the rock eating your #5 as described below). I Fell onto my little silver 0.4dmm on the starting thin hand crack, and then had an absolute armature hour as I proceeded to get 2x #5 cams stuck just underneath the tree. Mary and I spent hours trying to extract both cams in the middle of the gale force wind warning.. we recovered 1 and then quickly lost all our senses in the wind and both realized we needed to employ the big guns for this final #5 rescue op. Two lads wanted to climb the route next and had a crack at removing the cam on the way up before deciding it was lost to the wall and was more of a bolt than a cam. They then got their rope stuck half way up the route while trying to pull the rope. In the moment of doubt, Quintin showed up like a wizzard with his jack hammer, crow bar and cunning skills. He rapped in from the top on a 70m rope like a boss, skillfully used the knott at the end of his 70m rope to loop through the lads stuck rope and free it from the wall. If that isn't awesome enough, he then rolled his eyes at our fable attempt to remove the stuck cam and blew it out of the wall as if we hadn't even tried to tap it. What a wizzard. However, little did he know his rope didn't touch the ground. So Steffen & Saskia Bollmann came to the rescue at the top of the route with their highly effective double rope system, and ensured Quintin the wizzard did not need to prussic out that day.

Key learnings: the original route name was actually 'Lord of the Fives', Quintin is a wizzard, Steffen is onto something with this double rope action.

Thanks to all that were involved in #5 rescue operation. I am one grateful girl for all the help and skills at frog.

Started up the finger crack and ran out of appropriate cams to protect the top of it/didnt feel like flying so i catted out left to the rack and ruin start. Had a good amount of fun but bitta dodgy rock about.. climbs kind of similar to cock crack - jug assisted grovelling. Got asked to rescue a no.5 on the way down. Didnt see that but clipped a big purple bolt on the way up. Most secure bolt ive ever seen

Had a sit on a piece to get a walked-in cam. Great climbing the whole way.

20 20's - 18/20: First route in the darkness of night.

?think it was this one ?

Beautiful varied climbing. Even the offwidth bit was fun, especially draping self over horizontal tree. Dave was crafty and hauled the big gear up on the trail line

The most underrated route I think I have ever done. Beautiful locks, steep hand crack, 3 dimensional groove ending in a smidge of offwidthing. Good rock, clean, has an anchor. Take lots of 3-5 camalots.

This is really worthwhile if you don't mind a little offwidthing. The initial finger crack is great, then there's a section of hand crack with one loose feeling block (I gave it a good tug on second but it seems solidly wedged). After this a long section of offwith - but it's easy due to holds around the crack. Until there aren't. A short section of proper offwidthing (I did my first hand/fist stack - and it worked!) leads to a welcome fig tree and a wide finish that's not too hard. A great, long pitch.

We took the guide book's advice and climbed the finger crack only before embarking on a magical adventure linking all the worst parts of the Onlooker's Omelette pillar to access the Theory Ledge.

10m runout or bail? Bail. Take bigger gear next time!

a long and absorbing lead. I think it deserves a star or two.

I seconded this a few weeks ago when grant used our rope to clean some gear off another climb and thought it would be a manageable redpoint, if a little long

Nice climb