Routes in West of the access track

Up Witches Cauldron then through the body crack to finish up Witches Covert.

The arête left of OA, one old carrot, #1 RP essential

Much easier than the original. From the first bolt, don't step R, but continue up the L arete until it is possible to join the original at the piton.

Put a high runner the start of Satyricon, then step R onto the arete and up. Pass 2 very lonely and dodgy looking pitons, then climb the wall above.

Start on the far L side of the little ledge of ML. Move up the front of the detached pillar passing 2 bolts on the way. Not too bad.

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

Not as good as RA, but definitely worth a go if you went to the hassle of getting up there. Start next to RA. On the R you will see a steep groove and arete. Blast up this on average protection to the top. A very airy finish awaits.

Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember.

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

A real waste of 2 bolts. Start up the same arete as BS. Clip the first bolt of BS, then up the poxy little line to another bolt. Step R and get off as soon as you can.

The epitome of desperate new route seekers at work. Higher up in the gully in between FA and the 'Mr. Bojangles' pillar is a very short little orange pillar. Climb up the front of this past 1 bolt. This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a great route.

More scary than 15 horror films rolled into one. Bridge up the gap to a bolt. Wobble and crimp your way to a pocket (#3 RP needed). Up past a second bolt to a stance on the L arete. Follow the line of very shallow seams and cracks (yes, the gear is crap and the flakes brittle), to where the line merges with the original. Extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim Carrigan.

The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top.

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

This improbable arete is apparently still waiting to be lead ground up (pure style). Levitate up the arete using friction, glue, and anything else you can get your hands on to complete the extremely technical moves that are required to finish this route. You can get some form of protection by placing a high runner in Catharsis. Join the original line where the diagonal meets the arete.

Directly above SMF is a small orange wall capped by a tiny roof. Go directly up this on friable flakes and dodgy gear. Gear can be placed in the seam on the L to keep life sane. One cool move at the roof is all that recommends this little climb.

Bold and strenuous climbing with not much in the way of good protection! Start at the crack just R of Faki on brilliant thin hand jamming. Fron here, pack your spare undies, move up the arete for a move or two, and then R and up through the bulge! Although there is adequate pro (just), it is still a very serious proposition.

Slither down into the underworld to hide from that one embarrassing memory your subconscious keeps reminding you of. Pleasant subterranean chimneying leads to a very tight exit and memorable crux. If you liked sticking pencils in your eyes for fun and you'd also love to stick some forks in as well then this slot is for you.

No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement.

Contrived and not as good as LRB. Up the R line on the same wall. The gear isn't the best either!

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

Hard! Up the desperately blank corner to a piton that looks like it was placed about the time that Capt. James Cook landed. Continue up with very thin protection to a bolt at 1/2 height. Slightly easier climbing to the top... but not much.

Up the ledge left of VITS. Face climbing using the thin crack for protection. Very small gear required to protect the crux. At around 3/4 height climb right into the finish of Voices.

It should have stayed out. Climb the obvious crappy little groove. It's not long enough to even properly chastise yourself for getting on this pile of crap.

A little top-rope fun on the arête left of Witches Cauldron. Make your way up the arête making use of crimpers, fridge-hugging skills and/or delicate footwork.

Halfway up OA, this short climb traverses R over the slab, under the block, and finishes up the arete (head L onto wall near the finish).

If your arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

A short little variation of DOTJ. Instead of climbing the short organge corner, climb the R underside of the ear shape that makes the R wall of the corner. Not much better, and pretty contrived.

Crap. A desperate little corner up the L side of the pillar that Hell's Angel starts off. Barely adequate pro and terrifying moves earned this one the coveted "never ever do again" award.

The line between Hell's Angel and Easy Rider leading to the top of Angel Rider. Thin, fiddly gear at low crux, take lots of gear around green alien size and some micro wires. Grade will vary on the length of your limbs or size of your blinkers as Douglas was able to reach Easy Rider at points. Climbs the best rock on this wall, no idea why it wasn't done before.

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

Starts about 6m R of IOTN, just before the track veers L. Up a crappy, grunty short crack to the arete. Up this past 1 bolt. Not very good.

The person who bolted this climb was clearly suffering from this syndrome when considering this pile of mank as a route. Contrived and finger shredding. Not a great route at all, but someone saw a blank wall and had to bolt the crap out of it. 3 bolts to the manky ledge... 2 good moves! Rap as for BB.

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

Instead of flopping onto the ledge with quiet relief, continue up the depressingly blank corner for another 15m to the top. Very small gear and one very old piton pretend to offer adequate protection.

Another wacko job courtesy of Mr Henderson.

Classy arete and face climbing L of Saffron Crack. Really good climbing, unfortunately there is a very hard clip at the bolt! 3 bolts lead the way to the top.

The bolted arete starts up CC for about 5m, and then steps out. It is really good, however the bottom section features brittle rock. Up past the fixed hangers, trending slightly R, to eventually finish at the chains of SA.

What some used to consider a good route has since been rendered obsolete by a tree.

Brittle start up wall beside SC. Hug your way up the slim buttress between SB and SC, passing 4 BR. Exit via the chimney at the back of detached buttress to the chain above Smoked Banana