Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity
A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb. FA: Ross Allen & Rick White., 1970 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | Oscillating Pineapple
Total crap. A crappy little line that is usually done as a variant start to SB. Not worth the trip. FA Unknown (probably due to shame) FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 R | Bits and Pieces
What a contrived waste of time. Go up the moss-laden slab to the R of MB on to a ledge. From there, go easily up a fun little pocketed wall to the finish. No worthwhile protection can be found in the bottom 2/3 of this route. FA: Stuart Camps, 1983 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★★★ Dangerously Sane
The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well. FA: Matt Hutton & Danny Rose | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★ Keed Spills
A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above. FA: Fred From & Mark Morwood, 1981 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 R | Genghis Khan
The horrible dark chimney to the R of SC. This climb is a disgusting grunt fest with no real worthwhile protection. FA: Paul Caffyn & Sid Tanner, 1969 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Drop-out Direct Finish
The only way to go. Continue up the brilliant hand crack flake above to the top. This was originally thought to be a separate route, started off the ledge. It is however a far better variant finish to DO, and a contender for one of the better low grade cracks on the cliff. FA: Bill Noris, 1980 | 7m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | Drop-out Variant Finish
Not as good as the Direct Finish (DDF). This is the thin crack up the face directly above Pibrock. Worth a trip if you have done the others. It packs quite a punch for such a midget of a route. FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen, 1983 | 5m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★ Infinity Variant Finish
From the start of the diagonal on Infinity, step L up the face past 1 bolt. A scary and atmospheric little route. FA: Kim Carrigan & Rick White, 1982 | 10m, 1 | Frog Buttress | ||
18 R | Vegetation Row
Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails! FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1972 | 37m | Frog Buttress | ||
15 | ★ Uriah Heep
The well protected hands, fists then offwidth crack on the R side of the same buttress. Worth a lap if you can find it. FA: Steve Bell, 1972 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
26 | ★★ Self Expression
Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | Perversion
Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around. FA: Marty Beare, 1983 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★ Go-between
Desperate. Classy and unrelenting movement the whole way protected by shallow and small gear. Deserves to be done more often, but is quite solid and risky at the grade. FA: Kim Carrigan & Fred From, 1979 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake
A strenuous and rewarding test piece jamming problem. Brilliant gear and tricky finger locks see you to a good stance at 2/3 height. Finish easily. Rap off DBB directly above the route. FA: Nic Taylor & Rick White, 1976 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | Kookamunga
Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it. FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen., 1983 | 5m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★ Equality
Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top. FA: Rob Staszewski & Dave Moss, 1979 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | ★★ Cheshire Cat
Up the ledge left of VITS. Face climbing using the thin crack for protection. Very small gear required to protect the crux. At around 3/4 height climb right into the finish of Voices. FFA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2008 FA: 2008 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ Mango
Further R you can find this short little orange corner hiding in the scree...the time you spend looking for it could be better spent, although the climbing isn't actually that bad. FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1983 | 8m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | Canned Heat
The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing. FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | Nymphet's Crack
3 very different hard sections. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG past tree to ledge. Difficult moves up thin hands/fingers crack leads to a rest at a tree. Easier hand crack to desperate exit and an anchor here would really make this a worthwhile route. In the meanwhile, suffer up the last grotty 3m then traverse to Satyricon's anchor. FA: Joe Lynch, 1981 | 32m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★★ Out on a Limb
An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is thin and spaced. FA: Kim Carrigan & Rick White., 1977 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | ★ Ethicmans Dilemma
A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flares a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Physically challenging climbing to a stance at 2/3 height. Careful at top, block on right is a little loose. FA: Ross Allen & Rick White, 1970 | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★★★ Lonely Teardrops
Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains. FA: Rob Staszewski & Dave Moss, 1979 | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
25 | ★★★ Voices in the Sky
Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff (yoyo), 1979 | 32m | Frog Buttress | ||
9 | ★ Short and Sweet
Not the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap. FA: Ross Allen & Ben Whitehouse, 1969 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★ Satyricon
This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar. FA: Kevin Pearl & Fred From, 1978 | 35m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | ★ Run With the Pack
This climb is desperate to protect in the first half, although barely adequate protection can be found. Levitate and bridge up the initial strenuous corner to a stance at 1/2 height. You can escape this craziness by going up BC for 5m and then stepping L. If you do this, the grade drops to 21. From this stance, blast up one of the most magnificent finger seams that Frog has to offer! Rappel from the DBB above Bad Company. FA: Rick White & Ian Thomas, 1976 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | ★★ Licensed to Kill
Looks like it probably will! Climb up the pillar immediately R of ED. 3 bolts show the way to the top. Quite a serious and technical lead. FA: John Pearson & Gordon Bieske, 1986 | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | Quietly Superior
Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD. FA: Marty Beare, 1980 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
7 | ★ Excreta
The chimney to the R of SAS. Completely disgusting, but good if you're into that kind of sick perverted thing. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows (solo), 1968 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | ★★ Electronic Flag
A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit. There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line. The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice). FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | O Lucky Man
Put a high runner the start of Satyricon, then step R onto the arete and up. Pass 2 very lonely and dodgy looking pitons, then climb the wall above. FA: Gordon Bieske & Alan (Sunshine) Wilkie, 1983 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
15 | ★ Bad Company
A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner. Rappel down from DBB directly above the route. FA: Nic Taylor & John Hattink, 1977 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★ Pibrock
Funny twin corner systems with a tiny arete in between making use of both at the same time challenging! Up these (wondering how this route was ever graded 12) to ledge then continue up crack past tree to ledge at top of Ethicmans Dilemma. FA: Mac Thompson & Glen Burns, 1969 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | Rudys Got New Shoes
What some used to consider a good route has since been rendered obsolete by a tree. | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 X | ★★ Ockerphillia
Extremely graceful and elegant climbing straight up the front of the pillar. There is no worthwhile protection to be found, and a fall would almost certainly be fatal. A truly daring and impressive effort. FA: John Howard & Dave Fearnley, 1982 | 23m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Electronic Flag DS - RHS
Instead of climbing left of it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner. This used to be graded 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag. | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | ★ Chunder Crack
This route is very well named, and a contender for the greatest sandbag ever at the original grade of 15! If you must subject yourself to this torment, go up the top of the pillar R of OLM. Climb up the horrible strenuous off-width corner. A protectable lead with big gear. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 R | Atomic Frog
Dangerous and crappy. The small face directly above the finish of HR. Wobble up the crappy wall on broken holds and dodgy pro. It looks good, but isn't. FA: Scott Camps & Paul Grey, 1983 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
8 | Satisfaction
A great beginner's lead. Climb the blocks to a ledge. Up the twin cracks to the next ledge. Easily up to the tree. FA: Ron Collett & Mike Mahoney, 1969 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★ Jigsaw
An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting. FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1971 | 35m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★★ Chemical Adrenalin
Start at Ockerphillia and immediately head R in a rising traverse past some bolts and mixed "mind pro". Very classy, and quite sustained. Rebolted July 2019. FA: Andrew Smith, 2000 | 24m, 4 | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | Second Song
A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'. FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1984 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★★ Juggernaut
Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many an aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist. FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1974 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 R | Sweet Transvestite
Yet more crap. The disgusting groove directly above OOAL. Why would you do this to yourself? FA: Kevin Pearl & Ken McLean., 1978 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
13 | Satisfaction Direct Start
"Old School" paradise! Climb the disgusting body crack found around to the R of S, until it re-joins the original line. It would be far more productive to shoot yourself, and possibly less painful. FA: Ron Collett & Mike Mahoney, 1969 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
15 | ★ Witches Cauldron (Variant Finish)
Start up W.C. until it is possible to step left into the chimney. Up this onto the pillar and straight up the hand crack to a trad placed belay below the 2nd pitch of W.C. | 14m | Frog Buttress | ||
8 R | Ex
Climb up the opposite side of the chimney to the tree. FA: Rick White (solo), 1968 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
25 | ★★ Paranoia
Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice
Classic crack climbing, an excellent example of jamming at Frog. Start at the obvious crack on the far L of Warlock Ledge. A tricky start to get established in the crack (watch out for the loose rock), and then magnificent jamming up the line. Finish at the ledge and rap chains above. FA: Henry Barber., 1975 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums
A fun little top rope problem. Top roped prior to the first ascent, with only a couple of runners over its length (including a wire in a shallow crack that erupted with ants when the runner was placed). Start off the top of the detached pillar that marks the half way point of Micron. Straight up on the poorly protected (ie bounce off the ledge) wall, on thin holds. Finish as for Micron. Rap chains can be found at this tree. FA: Mike Woodrow, Darren Holloway & Mark Holloway., 1985 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | Satisfaction Direct Finish
The obvious handcrack starting from the first ledge. Quite hard, and very easy to hit ledges if you should fall. FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1974 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
14 | Trick or Treat
What a complete waste of time, paper and oxygen! Yet another case of beard stroking bumblies at work. The vegetated outcrop on the L halfway down the scree slope. FA: Bill Norris, 1980 | 4m | Frog Buttress | ||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1
Start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour
Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing! A 70m rope will get you back to the ground from the chain around the tree. FA: Rick White & Ross Allen (yoyo)., 1969 | 34m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 | Just Made It into the Guide
It should have stayed out. Climb the obvious crappy little groove. It's not long enough to even properly chastise yourself for getting on this pile of crap. FA: Dave Moss & Paul Hoskins, 1983 | 5m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | The Gentle Lion
A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top. FA: Dave Faernley & Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★ Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles
A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish. To rap, either use chains on SA (left) or YGH (right). Easiest way is the tree directly above the route that will get you back to Warlock ledge with a 70m rope. FA: Henry Barber & John Fantini, 1975 | 32m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Micron
The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! Rap down DBB above Elastic RURP to avoid getting ropes stuck. FA: Unknown, 1972 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 R | Bite Free
A crappy little climb. Start on the R side of the pillar. Go up the micro seam 2m L of the arete, stepping up and around L to a stance, and a now completely pointless 1st bolt at knee height. Finish easily. FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986 | 9m | Frog Buttress | ||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2
The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics! FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★ Squeaky Leather
A good variant to MMT. Start up MMT, and step R at an old piton onto the arete at 10m. Directly up the arete past more bolts to the top. 2018 update: the pin remains but bolts appear to have been removed. Only one rusty stud remains. FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell & Mick Peck., 1988 | 38m | Frog Buttress | ||
17 R | ★ Image of the Nat
This short arete starts opposite a large tree about 8m before the track turns L. Quite fun, but not a lot of gear. FA: Scott Camps & Garry Glover., 1983 | 8m | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights
Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Be prepared for a run out crux. Finish up Piranha. FA: Chris Peisker., 1979 | 30m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★ Satsang
Variant finish to 'Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles' and by far the better way to go. Avoid the final chimney by stepping onto the R face and up past a bolt. Great exposure and brilliant crimpers make this the preferred way to go! FA: Scott Camps, 1985 | 5m, 1 | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP
One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes. FA: Rick White & Barry Overs, 1971 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
7 | Leprechaun
A tough little unit for about 3 moves, then easily to the tree. Up the crack on the R using lots of grunt and bridging. From here, step L onto the wall and finish easily. After 1st tree option R overgrown, option L loose. FA: Mike Mahoney & Mac Thompson, 1969 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 R | ★★ Sleight of Hand
Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall! FA: Kevin Pearl (solo), 1979 | 8m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 R | Quick
Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top. FA: Rob Staszewski & Derek Sheldon, 1976 | 13m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine
Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m (alternatively, you can start up HG for 4m and then step L onto the same ledge). From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at half height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Go up the broken corner at the back and right to double rings. Bring second rope to get down. FA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 33m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | Colour Me Dead
Starts about 6m R of IOTN, just before the track veers L. Up a crappy, grunty short crack to the arete. Up this past 1 bolt. Not very good. FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps., 1986 | 9m, 1 | Frog Buttress | ||
24 | ★ Ginger Bitch
A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip. FA: Scott Camps, 1987 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home
Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to finish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style. FA: Henry Barber., 1975 | 26m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★★ Separator
Very good climbing, but a little tricky to protect at the crux. Up ER for 3m to the cave. Step R and follow the diagonal to the arete. Up this on fantastic rock to finish up the wide crack as for Catharsis Variant Finish. FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1981 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Night Flight to Venus
What a way to end the guide, with this pile of rubbish. Above and L of Leprechaun, at the R end of the ledge above Pibrock is this lonely little handcrack. FA: Bill (the man of mank) Noris, 1980 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
13 | ★★ Clockwork Orange Corner
Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | ★ Harlot
A good and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above. FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 R | ★★ Holy Grail
This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side! FA: Matt Taylor, 1975 | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 R | ★★ Popping Pillars
The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top. FA: Robbie Allen (TR then free solo), 1983 | 7m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | Quite Contrary
A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd., 1982 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | ★★ Warlock
The direct start up the off-balance and diabolically smooth corner goes at 21. To avoid this abuse of your body, you can go up YGH for a move or two, and then step across to the ledge. Up the twin crack system, with the final moves around the huge overhung chock stone being an absolute show stopper! Tree belay above the chock stone or DBB slightly left above YGH. The FFA details are shrouded in mystery, however Rick White, Chris Meadows and Mike Meadows climbed the line with some points of aid in 1969. FA: Mike Meadows with some aid in, 1969 | 26m | Frog Buttress | ||
25 R | Separator Direct Start
This improbable arete is apparently still waiting to be lead ground up (pure style). Levitate up the arete using friction, glue, and anything else you can get your hands on to complete the extremely technical moves that are required to finish this route. You can get some form of protection by placing a high runner in Catharsis. Join the original line where the diagonal meets the arete. FA: Kim Carrigan & Dave Fearnley, 1982 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
5 | ★ Root
The tree root left of COC, described in 1968 as "one of the best routes around" FA: unknown | 7m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | Bel-air
Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily. FA: Paul Hoskins Re-established by Richard Henderson & Paul McAntee, 1980 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
18 | ★ Witches Covert
A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short. FA: Rick White, 1970 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
22 R | ★★ Holy Grail Direct Finish
Instead of flopping onto the ledge with quiet relief, continue up the depressingly blank corner for another 15m to the top. Very small gear and one very old piton pretend to offer adequate protection. FA: Joe Lynch, Murray Ball & Rob Staszewski., 1983 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | Eating Gorillas
On the L side of the main cliff line is a striking orange and white pillar. This route goes up the far L side of it. Go up the body crack while practising your acceptance speech for the "Thrutch Masters" hall of fame. FA: Stuart Camps (free solo), 1983 | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★★ Piranha
An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings. FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1970 | 45m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | ★★ Warlock DS
Direct start to Warlock. | 26m | Frog Buttress | ||
20 | ★★ Catharsis
The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling. FA: Ted Cais & Ian Thomas, 1973 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★ Unknown Bolt Fest
No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement. FA: Paul Hoskins & Evan Bieske ('s), 1990 | 25m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ||
17 R | Blow by Blow
Solo up the face of the pillar to the left of OA up to a ledge and tree. It is best to get off there. If you must, climb the shallow seam just to the L of OA on very dodgy pro to the top. FA: Mike Law, 1970 | 18m, 1 | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★ Humility
A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge. FA: Ross Allen, 1970 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away
Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your efforts! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of '75. Enjoy the crack work and bridging moves up the long corner with superb gear throughout. Top out to Conquistador ledge rap chains, you will need two ropes or a single 70m to get back down. FA: Nic Taylor., 1976 | 35m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | ★★ Oppenheimer's Monster
Very, very classy climbing. Start up the pillar in between EG and Jockette. Go past 2 bolts, then veer slightly L to the top of the pillar. Excellent wires keep things sane. Rap chains can be found at the tree. FA: Stuart Camps (Scott Camps added the direct start), 1983 | 25m, 2 | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | ★★ Wango Tango
A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear. FA: Dave Moss & Paul Hoskins., 1982 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
23 | ★★ Day of the Jackal
You will need to eat your spinach for this one! Two ropes are the key to success on this exposed and wandering route. Layaway the arete R of Warlock and up delicately to a stance. Up to the thin orange corner capped by a roof. Step R just before the roof, up, and gain a wobbling stance on the left wall. Control your leg's desire to impersonate Elvis, and climb L up the exposed and steep face towards the hanging flake. Flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy! FA: Jeff Lamb, Marty Beare, Joe Lynch & Dave Moss, 1980 | 28m | Frog Buttress | ||
19 | Catharsis Variant Finish
Crap. Blast up one off-width, and then, just as it gets good, traverse L at a grotty horizontal to yet another off-width! No real quality movement can be found on this route. FA: Fred From & Kevin Pearl, 1978 | 7m | Frog Buttress | ||
21 | Variant Finish
Another wacko job courtesy of Mr Henderson. FA: Richard Henderson., 1986 | 8m | Frog Buttress |