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Routes in Dome Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Flight Deck
17 Pregnant Paws

Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit’

  1. 10m Up crack through small roof to belay on left.

  2. 20m As for final pitch of Bunker Hill’.

Trad 30m, 2
Middle Tier
17 Sunday Driver Discord

Starts at either JB or LC depending on your fancy. Unlike the first ascensionists it's best to break this route into two pitches to avoid rope drag and snagging ropes under sharp flakes.

  1. (crux) (30m). Up to obvious overlap and traverse L through top/bottom cracks to beginning of vertical crack. build semi-hanging belay.

  2. (15m) Up vertical crack and through off-width chimney to finish. Tree belay.

FA: Ben Vincent, Richard Curtis & carol lee, 4 Jun 2017

Trad 45m, 2
Brut & Environs
17 Agrippina

Start: About 12m to the left of ‘Brut’, the obvious flake crack.

Up flake crack, swing right when crack runs out; slab climbing to terrace.

FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Trad 25m
17 Brut

Pertaining to champagne of high quality, not the nasty animal.

Start: The fine layaway crack left of ‘Bleat’ and 'Ambrosia'. (not the horrible offwidth).

Fine jamming and layaways to top.

This route was first climbed by Jill Kelman and Richard Curtis in 1976 but was not recorded because the prevailing ethic locally at the time was that a climb had to ascend the cliff from bottom to top to be a legitimate ascent. As Jill subsequently died in a European mountaineering accident I suggest that the climb be called Jill's Climb as it was a fine lead for the time. I mentioned this to Brian while he was still with us and the idea was received favourably.

FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Trad 25m
Lower Dome Wall
17 Face Lift

A classic case of fine crack climbing.

Start: At the bottom of the slabs quite a way right of ‘Uncertain Future’ .You can either walk across from the previous routes or walk down from the top via the upstream descent gully.

  1. 15m Up chimneys and wide cracks

  2. 15m More of the same

  3. 10m Up rightward trending diagonal behind bush.

  4. 20m From open slabs, up right hand flake then up left to small ledge.

  5. 20m Across wall on right to tree, then right under roof; off-width and fig tree on right.

  6. 20m (crux) Out under roof to lip and up to one inch cracked roof, then up to scooped ledge.

  7. 10m Steep crack to slab and -jut to left.

FA: Phil Prior, Brian Birchall & Joe Friend, 1978

Trad 110m, 7
17 Face Value

A variant to ‘Face Value’.

  1. 15m As for ‘Face Value’

  2. 15m As for ‘Face Value’. belay under overlap.

  3. 10m (crux) Move left, under-cling then jam to large ledge.

  4. 25m Up easy looking chimney and exit onto the Flight Deck.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Trad 63m, 4
The King Pin
17 Monsieur Hanging Rock

Start: This route is on the slabs between The Flight Deck and The King Pin.

  1. 12m Wander up to roof.

  2. 18m Through roof, up leftwards and over to the Kurrajong tree, then up offwidth to top.

FA: Joe Friend (self belay), 1978

Trad 30m, 2
Reality Wall
17 Layaway Reality

Line following the system of layback cracks and under-clings on the downstream end of the slabs. Originally done with one or two points of aid in the top corner hut was freed by A. Legler and Ed Sharp in October 1980.

Start: At the far left of the slabs.

  1. Up wall, traversing left at about 10m to gain a large ledge? at the base of the first layback crack.

  2. Up flakes to small ledge.

  3. (crux) Up cracks to fingery corner then exit to tree.

FA: Austin Legler & Ed Sharpe, 1980

Trad 80m, 3
17 Aggripina

Details unknown, mentioned in 'Screamer' issue 9, 1981

FA: Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Trad

Showing all 9 routes.

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