Gara Gorge Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.622020, 151.822325

description

All the cliffs on the Gara gorge 15 minutes from Armidale.

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.601694, 151.804645

This guide covers the climbing areas in the Upper Gara Gorge. Gara Gorge is part of the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. All the cliffs (apart from the Ring-pull Boulder) are in the National park as is the access to these areas and should thus be treated accordingly. Enough said!

The Gara Boulders, with their easy access and proximity to Armidale have long been a popular venue for a quick afternoon sortie or a lazy day’s climbing. There is a large variety of routes with everything from straight up jamb-cracks to clip-up sport-routes. Most lines are short (8-15m) and have easy walk-offs or a rap-station nearby. A light rack plus a few brackets should see you through just about everything. The other areas described in this guide are located further down the gorge and are suited more to at least a half-day effort. Climbing at the Kitchen is similar to The Gara Boulders while the Sea Cliff is entirely Sport climbing and the Bastille and the Fortress are slightly more serious with a mixture of styles and routes between 25 and 100m in length.

So there you go, you want, we got - there’s really something for everybody. If after looking at all the climbs you feel like something else, then there are enough boulder problems to send you mad for weeks (or year?). Friction slabs, sharp little crimp-fests, cheese-grating slopers and even big, friendly, overhanging jug-hauls.

What more can I say: “Ring now, but don’t send any money!”

access issues

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

approach

Gara Gorge is located 16km south-east of Armidale’s CBD. To get there, take the Grafton road east out of Armidale then turn right onto Castle Doyle road (just after the 100km speed limit signs). This road goes onto Blue Hole road, turning to dirt straight after the cattle grid, takes you to the Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. Once at the river follow the road right to the second car park and picnic ground. This is the focus of most of the bouldering in the area. Access to the old car park referred to in parts of the guide has been blocked to vehicles. To get there walk up onto the ridge and follow the old car track along until it stops. From the old car park there are several ways of getting into the gorge. Either follow the well defined track which leads east along the ridge to drop down to the Roadblock area and the Mad Woman’s Breakfast boulder, or veer left (north) from this track at its start and walk straight down towards the Hope Buttress region. To get to the Thick As Thieves / Private Sector area, scramble up past the upstream end of Hope Buttress, then head straight across, past a small gully, then on to the main gully, the main water course. Another way to access the Thick as Thieves and Schoolgirl area is to follow the walking track from the main second car park until you are above them, and then drop in via the riverbed (about 500m).

For some of the bouldering it matters how low the water level is, which you can get a feel for by looking here:

https://realtimedata.waternsw.com.au/?ppbm=206008&rs

where to stay

Camping is frowned upon in the Gara boulders picnic area but the NPWS seem to be amenable to bush camping as long as you adhere to the usual rules about fires etc. Another option is the Pembroke Caravan Park which is just before the turnoff as you leave town on the Grafton road. They offer everything from basic tent-sites to fully furnished cabins. There is also an amazing variety of hotels, bed n’ breakfast and pub accommodation in town. For your food needs there is a choice of three large supermarkets as well as a multitude of fruit shops and heath food stores. If you feel like catching a feed in town, there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and pubs, the New England Hotel has a great brassiere that serves good food in a nice atmosphere and is the watering hole for most of the local climbers - just look for the scruffy mob waving their arms around in the air. All your climbing needs as well as the latest information on routes and access are available from Armidale Outdoors.

ethic

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

history

Ironically, the Gara boulders area was discovered by accident by Rob Dixon and Brian Birchall whilst returning from a day at Nettle Buttress. The year was 1975. On this day they completed “Hope” (16) and “Charity” (14). Development continued through the following years with one of the best being the classic easy route “Illusion” (13).

1978 saw the arrival of the infamous Joe Friend in Armidale. Foregoing the short routes of the Boulders he went further down the gorge to the Bastille, unearthing it’s first route “Geronimo” (20) though a rumored wooden peg found on the first ascent may point to the possibility that Friend may have been beaten to the cherry. Friend went on to do more routes over the river at the Fortress such as the frightening off-width “The Chop” (18).

1980 was the first real route-finding rush of the area. Inspired by Birchall’s “Savage Amusement” (20) (now 22 since the large spike was inadvertently removed) Mark Colyvan and John Latanzio climbed “Inertia” (22) and “Anticipation” (18) respectively. 1981, and the pace was kept up by Colyvan’s superb “Psychosomatic” (23) arguably one of the best routes in the area if you have the bottle for the first few moves. The same year saw the first sport-route (not recognised as such at the time) with Al Stephens’ ever-popular “Heavy Metal” (18).

1982 and the year of greatest productivity with over 20 new climbs developed in the area. This was also the year of one of the greatest controversies in the local scene. Frustrated with waiting for Ed Sharpe to break free from his alleged weekend hangovers and finish his project at the Private Sector, Paul Bayne finally went out and rope-soloed the first ascent of “Never-Ready Eddie”. Tempered by everyone’s plea’s (no-one wanted to find Paul’s body at the dump) Paul eventually called the route “Slackers and Robbers” (22) Also in this area was Latanzio’s Trajectory (18) which met an unpleasant demise when the bottom half fell down the slab. It has since been resurrected by Gordon Low. Straightened out with a couple of new bolts it has become a testy little 22. Other notable routes of this year were Colyvan’s “Private Sector” (22) and the classic overhanging crack “Thick as Thieves” (21). The same year saw a renewal of interest downstream where a direct finish was added to Geronimo (at the Bastille) compliments of Colyvan and Stephens. Across the river at the Fortress Bayne made significant inroads into freeing the classic double roof “Kiss Me Deadly” (22M1).

The next few years were a bit of a veritable new route drought with interest being focused in other areas. Two exceptions were Colyvan’s scary Don’t Get Cute” and Geof Robertson’s ascent of “The Hot Pearl Snatch” (26). Present on the day Stephens seemed more chuffed at the fact that Colyvan had been beaten to the ascent rather than the fact that New England now had it’s very own 26, even if it was less than ten metres long.

1988, the bicentennial year, brought a small stir with Brendan Halliburton producing 5 new routes, all in the area of the Swimming Hole. Most have since been lost in the mists of time but one standout is the excellent, exciting traverse “Careful He Might Hear You” (17). Before leaving town he also bolted a line left of “Don’t Get Cute” but the first ascent of “Leaving on Your Mind” (21) was left to the opportunistic Colyvan to clean up the following year. 1989 must have been the year for cleaning up as Stephens was also on detail. When Graeme Stewart was kidnapped by his wife and unable to return and free the last bit of aid from “Picnic at Hanging Rock” (25) Stephens was the first in to snaffle it up.

The following years brought a lull in activity though some interest was shown in the Bastille. Several routes were put up. Of these, “Innocence” (18), courtesy of Stephens, is probably the best easy slab this side of the divide.

The summer of 93-94 could be seen as a reemergence of the Boulders to the centre of attention. Too hot to climb anywhere else, Stephens and local boy Ben Christian focused on a few short tricks at the private sector. The pair managed to successfully pull a few rabbits out of their sleeves with Stephens’ “Yoda” (24) (just as popular as it is short!) and Christian’s exciting “Ninja” (22) being the picks of the litter. Shortly later Christian came down with severe tendonitis and everybody else’s attentions were elsewhere.

1995 started off with a bang with Christian letting everyone know he was back by quickly dispatching his old project “Black Dog” (25). The following day Gordon Low had finally lost enough weight to drag his sorry arse up “Sweet Surrender” (24), ending his two-year affair with the line.

Later that season Christian cleaned up an abandoned project next to “Sweet Surrender” on the “Shooting Star Buttress” to produce the frightening “Rodney’s Garibaldi Metwurst” (26-and quite a poisonous mouthful!). Finally heeding the plaintive bleating of would-be suitors, too scared to do the route without dangling slings all over it, Christian has since re-bolted “The Metwurst” to make it a little more consumer-friendly.

Downstream, between the Bastille and the Fortress, Low began development at “The Kitchen”, which is at water level, with several others in tow. The best routes so far are the easy classic “Get Nuked” (15) done by visiting Brisbanite Bill Briner, though it has been recently pointed out that Paul Bayne actually soloed the first ascent 10 years ago, and Low’s more recent “Lean Cuisine” (23).

Winter 1995 saw the arrival of The Swiss route-machine Andreas Audetat.

With his strong fingers and European sport climbing tactics Audetat was the one to drag New England, kicking and screaming, into the new age during 95 and ‘96. Though most of his efforts were focused further down the gorge, Audetat did do many high-caliber routes around the Boulders and further downstream. Below the Fortress, Audetat teamed up with Low and Tim Hill to Develop The Sea Cliff. Best routes here are Hill’s “Se A Cabo” (26) and Audetat’s extremely powerful “Ravage” (29). Up on the Bastille Audetat bolted and quickly completed (in two days) the striking yellow streak on the main face to give a product with “No Frills” (29). At the Fortress Low and Stephens continued to unearth the goodies through the early months of ‘97 with the hit being Stephens’ “Morning Glory” (22) -”What’s the story?”

At the boulders Audetat managed to fill in nearly all the gaps on the Shooting Star Buttress - the best being “Hitman” (29) as well as grid-bolting a large boulder in the farmer’s property. The “Ring-Pull Boulder” (anonymously named by a stunned local) has almost a dozen skin-ripping classic sport-routes on it but unfortunately a recent change of ownership and the usual litigation fears has closed this area to climbers.

Since the departure of Audetat back to Switzerland and the discovery of new sport climbing areas on the sandstone of the coast, development in the gorge has once again gone into hibernation, with the exception of the occasional route by the regular local crew. One of these was the so-called last great problem on Motor-head Buttress. “Paper, Scissors, Rock (25) finally submitted to a siege tactics onslaught by Matt Rizzuto and Low, with Rizzuto finally claiming the glory of success. But don’t be fooled, there is still a veritable cornucopium of unclimbed rock down there. Stephens is still sniffing out the occasional classic and Low is still making hopeful forays to the Bastille to waste tape on his optimistic project. Rizzuto, as well as tearing his way through the local test-pieces, is gradually notching up a good collection of hard boulder problems in the V5+ range.

So if you ever get fed-up with long approaches and slogging uphill to your favourite crag, remember why we climb in Gara gorge - because it’s not there!

Pay us a visit, there’s plenty rock for everyone.

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Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.596304, 151.798956

description

Limited rock in the area around the blue hole formed by the weir, best accesses from the first car park and the short track that leads to the bridge under the weir.

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Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.598794, 151.801543

approach

All of these boulders are best accessed by crossing the bridge on the Threlfall track, turning right and then dropping back down into the creek at various tracks from 100-200m.

©

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.600269, 151.800425

description

Boulders close the BBQ area stretching east along the right and north of the old dual track. Except for a couple boulders along the river, most are accessed by walking east past the last isolated picnic table and then following the track uphill for Pseudo and Little Ayes rock, or veering of left for Warmup, Mozzie, Triangle, Busdriver ...

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.602549, 151.797434

description

The cluster of boulders on the western ridge

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.602176, 151.800054

description

South of the old dual track

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.600875, 151.803382

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.597908, 151.804618

approach

From the second car park cross the bridge then walk around the track for around 300-400m, starting just past the side track for 'The Schoolgirl boulder'.

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Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.598010, 151.808233

description

Cross the bridge at the main picnic area and walk along the loop trail to the right for 400m. Just after a trail heads down to the schoolgirl boulder, head straight up hill to the upper loop trail and follow to the second bridge. Cross the second bridge and after 10m head up hill off the trail towards the boulders 150m ahead of you under the trees.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.600561, 151.796430

description

This boulder is on farmers land NOT the National Park, about 100m west of the second car park. Consider this closed unless you have explicit permission.

history

Believed that Andrea Audetat put up most of this with Gordon Low.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.598749, 151.804357

description

A cluster of climbing cliffs within a few hundred meters of the car park.

approach

Most of the central climbing areas are best approached from the south side. From the second car park walk east along the ridge, either along the single track or along the old faint dual track for about 500m until you get to a big turning circle. Then follow the main track norh east down into the gorge. From here you can drop down into 'Hope Buttress' and 'Savage Amusement Buttress' on your left, or get to the top of 'Road block' further down, or hike down the steep track to get to most of the other cliffs like 'Shooting Star Buttress'.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.602863, 151.803863

description

This sector is Southeast of the old dual track and basically includes the boulders in Powers Creek until the confluence with Gara River

approach

Walk east along the main walking track to 'Little Ayers' / Pseudoephedrine area then veer right off the walking track and head southeast until you meet a faint track leading down the ridge into Powers Creek just as it joins the main gorge. All the boulders are listed from upstream to downstream, 'Humpty Dumpty boulder' is the first obvious balancing boulder you come to still in the side creek.

history

tba

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Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.605396, 151.805106

summary

Big burly highballs

description

This area is full of big boulders with lots of features

approach

Follow the tracks on the south side to the powers creek confluence, and once in the main gorge walk downsteam south for a couple hundred meters to the big swimming hole.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -30.605759, 151.808031

description

A second cluster of areas around a km downstream

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.627033, 151.813907

summary

Slabs and cracks

description

All crags that are on the west side.

access issues

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

where to stay

Aside from the usual places in Armidale, there is a cabin you can rent on the property only a couple minutes walk from the gorge.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.604676, 151.813392

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.605419, 151.812938

approach

The climbs are marked, on the right-hand side of the base as you proceed down the ridge and are described from left to right.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.607623, 151.813835

history

Nettle Buttress is an historic area in that it was one of the first cliffs in Gara Gorqe to be climbed on in modern times. The first recorded route being ‘Serenity' 17 by Trevor Gynther and Al Stephens in April 1975 and to this day that is probably the best route at Nettle Buttress. 0ther routes recorded in 1975 of interest were ‘Dirty Trick' 15 by Brian Birchall and Jill Kelman ‘Trendsetter’ by Birchall, Phil Prior, and Kelman ' Little Hercules' 15 by Kelman Birchall, and Stephens and nearby on Isolated Buttress Bob Killip and Birchall did the first route; 'Adamant' I7. Also of historical interest was 'The Junkman' 12Ml by Stephens and Ian Craven in November of 1975 which was one of the first routes in New England to receive a bolt (for aid in this case). There has been very little interest in any of these areas since 1975, most climbers preferring the more easily accessible areas downstream. The occasional visit during the 14 years since then however, has yielded a few new routes although the only one of any real interest being 'Love is a Dog from Hell’ l9M0 by AI Stephens and Rob Clark in 1980 (and freed a year later by Mark Colyvan and Brian Birchall at 2l) on 'Isolated Buttress’.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.612098, 151.812460

description

Hard to find. The buttress is situation ear the top of the major gully to the slabs, downstream of Nettle Buttress. It is best approached from the right side of the broad ridge on the gorge rim on the way to 'Nettle Buttress'. The climbs are listed right to left and some are marked.

approach

The climbs are described from right to left.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.616044, 151.811028

description

To get to the Persian Carpets follow access to the Dome Wall, but when you get to the Holiday Cabin drive carefully to the north-north west passing a dam on the uphill side.

Download Google earth file here:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Holiday%20Cabin%20to%20Persian%20Carpet%20Parking.kmz

history

The history here starts in 1976 when Brian Birchall along with Jill Kelman and Phil Prior did the first routes here in ‘Ataxerxes’ 12 and ‘Darius’ 14. Nothing more was done until 1978 when Joe Friend moved to Armidale and did a few routes here such as the classic ‘Xerxes’ 16 and the flake crack ‘Country Bumpkin’ 14 both with Richard Thomas.

Apart from a few routes in 1980, most notably ‘Deceit’ 18 by Paul Bayne and Ed Sharpe, the area really only attracted the occasional visitor to repeat the likes of ‘Xerxes’ and ‘Country Bumpkin’. The lack of hard crack climbs here, which were fashionable at the time meant ‘The Carpets’ were neglected while development of other cliffs further down the gorge took place.

1982 was the beginning of the bolt era in New England and in 1983 Mark Colyvan, looking for good slab routes visited ‘The Carpets’and proclaimed them worthless (a proclamation he would live to regret!). A couple of years later in 1985, over autumn and winter, John (Jack) Lattanzio, Russell Chudleigh (Chunder), Tim Ball (Tadpole) and Greg Pritchard among other itinerants lived at ‘Camp Pog’ (the camp site in the gully between ‘Dome Wall’ and ‘The Pagoda’ and unlike Colyvan they realised the potential for good steep bolt protected slab routes here. The first to go were ‘Moral Decline’ 22 by Lattanzio, Andrew Collins, and Chudleigh, the very bouldery ‘Carrot Power’ 24 by Chudleigh, Al, and Lattanzio and ‘Autofellato’ 21 by Lattanzio, Chudleigh,and Ball, all done in May 1985. The following month Chudleigh was to climb the brilliant two pitch slab ‘Wolf Tracks’ 22 with Tim Ball in tow and Lattanzio was to do a ridiculously smooth steep slab called ‘Lust Bucket’ 23 with Greg Pritchard and a classic long grade 19 called ‘Rogue Roman’ with a cast of thousands.

The following year, 1986 Al Stephens did ‘Xenophon’ 20 with R. Thomas and M. Farnworth, and Mark Colyvan did a classic short slab/arete ‘Stop in the Name Of Love’ 16 with Joanna Monaghan and Greg Pritchard.

The next period of development was in 1988 and into 1989 after the purchase of a cordless impact drill by Al Stephens and Larry Dixon. A number of classic long slab routes mere done by this pair on both the right-hand end of ‘The Persian Carpets’ and on ‘The Rug’ such as ‘Fleshdance’ 19 and’Nightrnare on Elm Street’ 22 by Stephens and ‘Endlass Vacation’ 20 and ’Reefer Madness’ 16 by Dixon. Dixon also bolted, cleaned, and pre-named ‘The Perfect Crime’ but it was unknowingly stolen by Wade Fairly before Dixon got a chance to lead it. It sent at grade 21. The only blemish on this period was that a few of the earlier routes (‘Skid Ros’ 22, ‘Look Ma No Hands’ 21 and ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’ 22) had small holds chipped after the unfortunate precident set by Mike Lam at ’Dome Wall’ with his route ‘Fuck Knows’ 25 in 1987. Thankfully this trend has stopped (in New England at least) and in fact one chipped hold (on ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’) has been eliminated and cemented up by its creator.

In 1990 Mark Colyvan finally managed to claw and bicycle peddle his way up his route ‘The Last Laugh’ 26..

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.617961, 151.810526

history

'Split rock' was discovered in February:1980 by Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan, Al. Stephens and Ed Sharpe who were hunting around for the long lost ‘Dome Wall’. They did the only three routes there, of which only the offwidth ‘Oblivion’ 18 by Colyvan and Birchall is of any significance.

‘The Pagoda’ is very much a pet area of its discoverer John Lattanzio who found the crag in winter of 1982 not long after he had moved back to Armidale to live. He did the first routes there then, most notable of which were 'Higher Purchase' 21 and 'Gutterchild' 23. It has had a steady stream of new routes since then, mostly by Lattanzio or one of his cohorts. In May 1983 Chris Dale led 'Pumpleforeskin' 21 for Lattanio and during the Camp Pog days of 1985 Lattanzio led 'Sleaze' 22 and 'It's a Sin to Tell a Lie' 21 and Tim Ball led 'Cash in Hand'

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -30.626993, 151.810935

summary

Endurance climbing on slightly overhanding face

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.621421, 151.814296

description

Dome Wall has been Armidale’s premier climbing area for a number of years now. It offers some of New England’s best and most popular routes as well as a generous sprinkling of harder routes.

approach

Like many of the cliffs in the Gara gorge it is better if you can find a local to take you there for the first time. If you haven’t been there before, your best bet is to contact the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club: www.une.edu.au/unemc However, you should be able to find the cliff yourself with these instructions. Dome Wall is on a prominent protrusion into the gorge to the right (facing gorge) of a relatively major creek’s entry to the gorge. Grid reference 863 116 on topographic map “Armidale” sheet 9236.

Take the Dorrigo road out of Armidale for about 1km them a sign posted right turn onto the Blue Hole/Gara road. Follow this for about l0km to another right turn (just before Blue Hole road turns to gravel) onto a gravel road (signposted ‘Castledoyle Road’). The road goes through a creek crossing, veers left (the house on the hill to the right is the Moores’) and then comes to the big brick gates of Kenwood Park (Coffeys’ property). Reset the odometer here.

Turn right to follow the road (public access road) rather than going through the gates. At 0.5kms the road more or less ends – turn left through a gate (you are now on the Moores’ property) and continue in this direction, ignoring the better defined track you cross.

At 1.3kms, gate (after a short section between two fences). At 2.0kms, two gates. Take the left gate and follow the faint track. At 2.7kms you will pass a newish (ie 90’s) ‘holiday’ house – continue down track. At 3.2kms track ends – park.

Walk about half way down the gully to your left, and then head off to your right up the hill towards the gorge rim. At the top of the hill head around rightwards for a couple of hundred metres before dropping down the hill to the top of the cliff. The lookout area on top is right behind a huge pillar of rock called the dome and is an obviously well worn area. Total walking time is about 5-10 minutes.

history

The first visit to Dome Wall by climbers was in 1976, when Richard Curtis and Bob Rugo (a visitor from USA) split from an expedition to Colony wall that found itself on the wrong side of the gorge. They did the first route there that day: ‘Bunker Hill’ 16. No one was to visit the area again until Joe Friend came to town. In 1978 Joe did a few routes here with Brian Birchall and Phil Prior, the most notable being the classic ‘Face Value’ 17 and ‘Diabolique’ 20. Despite ‘Diabolique’ being one of New England’s hardest climbs, Dome Wall was just another cliff. In those days there were many cliffs awaiting first visits in the Gara Gorge, and others such as the Three Sisters which seemed to offer more potential so Dome wall had to wait another couple of years before any significant development would take place.

When interest returned to Dome Wall in 1980, of the climbers to have visited Dome Wall earlier, only Brian Birchall remained and he couldn’t remember how to get there. Some of the attempts to find it led to the discovery of Split Rock and Sweetheart’s Buttress. The latter was to occupy a lot of N.E. climbers’ time in 1980 and so it wasn’t until early 1981 that concerted efforts to rediscover Dome Wall were made again. It was a rather persistent Brian Birchall, along with Al Stephens and Mark Colyvan who eventually stumbled onto it again and proceeded to waste most of the day attempting a roof right of ‘Dogmatic Demise’ which was later to become ‘Prime Time’ 23 (this route was to occupy a lot of Colyvan’s time in the coming months). They did however manage to do ‘Aisle of Deceit’ 20 before leaving. After a few more visits by various people the potential at Dome Wall was being realised and the word spread quickly. The race was on; everyone wanted to get out to Dome Wall and get their names in the forthcoming New England guide book.

During the early months of 1981 Rob Clark, Brian Birchall, and Al Stephens in various combinations were the main activists since all three had summer holidays. Some of the many routes done during this period include ‘Working Class Heroes’ 18, ‘Rise of the Bourgeiosie’ 19, ‘Master Blaster’ 18, ‘Ambrosia’ 19, and the rediscovered ‘Brut’ 17. This was the start of Dome Wall’s domination of the Armidale climbing scene, a golden age, if you like. However, after the initial wave of routes in the 17-20 grade range were completed, the next set of obvious lines were to present more difficulty, since 20 was some what of a ceiling limit for Armidale’s climbers. During the next transitory phase attempts were made at ‘Pagan Paradise’ 21 and ‘Curtain Call’ 21 and routes such as ‘Bang Bang’ 20M0 and ’Autumnal Beauty’ 19M1 were done by Stephens. It was obvious that New England climbers would need to improve a bit before they would be able to free such routes.

After an extended climbing holiday Mark Colyvan returned to Armidale climbing a little better than when he left, but more to the point he was prepared to siege the fuck out of things if necessary (and it frequently was!). This next period of development saw routes such as ‘Bang Bang’ 21 and ‘Autumnal Beauty’ 20 freed as well as first ascents of Pagan Paradise’ 21 ‘Curtain Call’ 21 and finally ‘Prime Time’ 23 which was at the time New England’s hardest climb. Paul Bayne teamed up with Colyvan for many of these routes.

In early 1982 John Lattanzio (alias Jack the Slack) returned to the area and was determined not to miss out on the new routing spree at Dome Wall which seemed to have finished. Lattanzio, however managed quite a few new routes the best of which were the classic ‘Corridors of Power’ 16 and Labour Force’ 21, a hard finger crack at which Jack was a specialist. Since then development has slowed down but quality new routes continue to appear.

In June 1982 a Greg Pritchard conceived a slab route right of ‘Bang Bang’ was bolted and brushed by Colyvan giving ‘That’s Entertainment’ 23M1 (24 when freed a year later by Giles Bradbury) which became quite a test piece for a while and was the first route at Dome Wall to make use of bolt protection and offer slab/face climbing. Paul Bayne really hit form around this time making significant inroads in freeing ‘That’s Entertainment’ and adding ‘Running on Empty’ 23M1 which when freed a month or so later by he and Colyvan was New England’s hardest route and second 24 (only one day after the first 24 was completed at Ebor). Later that year Bayne added a couple more good routes such as ‘The Gremlin’ 21 (with Croft and Stephens) and ‘Overkill’ 19 (with Colyvan).

In 1983 a few more good routes appeared. Colyvan returned to do ‘Post Modern’ 21 in January and later that year Bayne added ‘Tipsy’ 21 and ‘Severance Pay’ 20 and Stephens did the classic ‘Jackhammer Blues’ 19.

1984 was a pretty quiet time at Dome Wall, the only significant new route being ‘Footprints on the Dashboard’ 22 by Stephens which ironically was looked at by many others and had been proclaimed impossible at reasonable grades. It became an instant classic.

In 1985 Russell Chudleigh (Chunder), John (Jack) Lattanzio and Tim Ball (Tadpole), amongst others, spent several months camped out between Dome Wall and The Pagoda at ‘Camp Pog’. Armed with the new friction boots, ‘fires’, and not afraid of a bit of bolting they managed many new routes mostly on The Pagoda and Persian Carpets. However they drifted over to Dome Wall occasionally where they did ‘Valium Vision’ 21 (Jack), and ‘First Aid for Budding Pimples’ 22 (Tadpole).

In 1986 Jack Lattanzio returned to Armidale to live and did ‘Built in Obsolescence’ 20 on lower Dome Wall and ‘Casa Nostra’ 22 left of ‘Bunker Hill’. Colyvan added ‘Crawling from the Wreckage’ 23 up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall introducing the new Petzl bolting technology to New England.

The latest little bout of new routes was in May 1987, when visits by Mark Colyvan, Paul Colyvan and Mike Law coincided to produce a few quality new routes, the best of which are ‘Backlash’ 24 (M. Colyvan), ‘Pace Fainting’ 22 (P. Colyvan) and the audacious ‘Fuck Knows’ 23 (Law) up the left arête of the Dome which is one of the hardest routes in New England.

Since then new routes have appeared rather infrequently, although those that have been done have generally been of high quality. In 1988 Mark Colyvan did ‘Down for the Count’ 23 and the following year he bolted and climbed one of the best routes in New England: ‘Sweet Dreams’ 24. In 1990 Gavin Dean and Al Stephens added the classic ‘Between the Sheets’ 23 (Dean) and ‘Under the Covers’ 21 (Stephens). Early in 1992 Stephens added ‘Stage Fright’ 21 and Colyvan added the exposed ‘Black Intention’ 22 to the right of ‘Sweet Dreams’.

I’m sure new routes will continue to appear at Dome Wall but l’ll be surprised if there is anything like the boom time of 1981- 82 again. So you can be sure that most of the best routes are contained in this guide, especially up to about grade 23.

Mark Colyvan 1/6/87, updated Feb 1992

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.624910, 151.812409

approach

You must go with a local who knows the correct procedure for crossing the farmers' private property to get to the gorge rim. Failure to do this will result in total closure of the current easy access. Alternatively, walk in from the Blue Hole along the gorge rim. It's a long way!

Please drive slowly across the paddocks and leave each gate as you find it. When crossing fences always cross at the largest strainer post to avoid damage.

Drive to the usual Dome Wall car park. Start walking due East down the gully for approx. two hundred metres then veer to the right hand side of the gully and head for the large blocks on the edge of the escarpment. Sidle around right till you come to the top of the main cliff. It's a bit difficult to describe but you'll get there eventually.

Most routes are in or around the main gully. 'The Great Escape' is further downstream, around the corner from 'Purgative'. Finally remember that these cliffs are part of Oxley-Wild Rivers National Park.

Avoid damage to fauna and flora, and no fires please.

history

Sweethearts was popular for only a very short time. At that time cracks were very popular..........even off-widths! Apart from the freeing of rests, an occasional alternate start, and the completion of unfinished projects, Sweethearts became a very unpopular crag.

Its fall from grace is thoroughly justified. Apart from 'Purgative' and The Great Escape', all other routes arc overgrown and dirty. However, if you are prepared to clean up the chosen route by abseil, before climbing it, you will find the routes challenging and enjoyable.

John Lattanzio and Brian Birchall were the first climbers at the cliff, naming it after a popular Cold Chisel album. Virtually every climber in Armidale visited the area within the next few months, hungry for new routes. All the cracks, well almost all the cracks, have now been climbed. Walls and arÍtes have, at the time of writing, not yet been climbed, but the potential is there. See you for breakfast at Sweethearts.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.630032, 151.810553

history

Wallaby Walls history spans a decade of development from 1978 to and inclusive of 1988. Like many Bi-Centennial projects Wallaby Wall was considered finished in 1988. However like many other cliffs in Gara Gorge there are always more new routes...You just have to look a little harder.

When Joe Friend arrived in Armidale in 1977 he was amazed at the amount of unclimbed rock in Gara Gorge. Every chance he got he would ask locals to lake him to untouched rock further down the gorge. One local who obliged was Brian (Bob Dog) Birchall. In 1978 six new routes went up at Wallaby Wall; three on the main wall and three on on the slabs just below the main wall, Slab City. Friend led all six with a variety of seconds, Brian (Bobdog) Birchall, Richard Thomas and Rod (Rock McClimbcr) McClymont. Two of these climbs are highly recommended, Timeless Realm (20) and Hang Ten (17). Nutkin (14) is short but of good quality. On the first ascent of Timeless Realm the seconds, Thomas and McClymont, were so blown away with the difficulties of the climb and its exposure that they decided to jumar the first two pitches! 1980 saw further action on the main wall. Paul Bayne with Austin Legler freed the tension traverse on the first pitch of Timeless Realm by climbing the flakey wall that leads up to the small belay tree, pealing off an alarming number of loose flakes in the process. Later that same year two multi-pitch 80m routes were put up at the right-hand end of the main wall, Gripping Yarns (17) by Jack Lattanzio with Al Stephens and Ed Sharp, and Against All Odds (18) by Rob Clark and Stephens.

Both routes are a little dirty but involve some pleasant climbing. During the ascent of Against All Odds Clark and Stephens spent two scary hours sitting under the big roof near the top of the climb as a violent thunder storm slowly moved up the gorge. At one point during the lightning display Stephens offered to give his entire rack to Clark ... for nothing! During 1983 bolt protected slabs were coming into vogue. Mark Colyvan found a beautiful water streak at Slab City but on closer inspection found the top half of the streak, to be too hard. So he bolted the flakey wall left of the streak but used the crack lower down to start. He named the climb Silence Is Golden (21), an excellent climb with a touch of boldness. That same year Timeless Realm received further attention from visiting English climber Chris Dale with John Lattanzio. He managed to straighten out the first pitch by stepping out right onto the wall just below the spike, then following the seam up to the roof and under-clinging the roof right to the tree and bolt belay. This avoided all the frigging-in-the-rigging of the previous two approaches, greatly improving the climb.

Slab City received all the new climbers’ attention in 1984. They were Better Get A Bucket (15) by Stephens with Simon Gay, Organic Fallout (18) by Gay and Stephens , and Bananas (20) by Richard Curtis with Stephens. Curtis was going to call the climb Al Goes Ape because Stephens became very excited about the need for a bolt up high to protect the second from a big top style swing! In 1986 only one new route was put up, again at Slub City. Unholy Trinity (21) by Curtis and Lattanzio with Birchall takes part of the first pitch of Elite Style, then goes up and out right through a slabby wall.

Visiting Queensland climber, Trevor (Grunter) Gynther thought that he had done a whole new route in January 1987, Macadamia (17)....a Queensland nut! However the first part of Gynthers route is new, making it a variant start to Deviant Death (17) ,a solo route Friend did in 1978. 1988 was the year of hard climbing on the main wall, and Cookie Monsters (See the editor for details or read all about it in one of the old editions of "Screamer"). Tim (Tadpole) Ball and Jack(The Slack) Lattanzio were responsible for all new ones that year, assisted on occasions by Ed Sharp and Pete Sims. Probably the best route is Peasant Uprising (22), a climb that goes from bottom to top on the main part of Wallaby Wall. Two other good ones by Tad are Viking Sunrise (22) and Crosseyed and Painless (22). There are still new walls and cracks to do but you might need a little imagination to find them.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.639332, 151.816794

description

How did this cliff get named 'The Three Sisters'?

Apparently someone was talking about the cliff and described it as the cliff that looked like The Three Sisters in the Blue Mountains. You need a really wild imagination to see the resemblance. However the name stuck.

approach

The Three Sisters is divided up into four main areas; the First Sister, the Second Sister (a small buttress), the Third Sister or the Main Cliff, and The East Gully.

Whichever way you approach the crag, the first cliff you come to is loosely called 'the First Sister'. You see the buttress jutting out over the gorge, on your left as you walk up towards the cliffs. It is distinguished by a large Fig tree growing out of a wide crack near the top of the wall.

history

1976: Jill Kelman with Richard (Dick) Curtis and B. Beer were the first climbers to visit the cliff in 1976. They put up the beautiful and ugly 'Golden Age' (15)-beautiful in the first half, but ugly for the rest. Later that same year Bob Killip with Brian (Bobdog) Birchall visited the cliff, picked out and completed one of the hardest and hidden lines, 'Wedding Bells' (19). 1977: Al Stephens returned to climbing in 1977 after several years of canoeing and with Geoff Francis and Joe Friend put up' Down on Creation' (17). Joe Friend, who arrived in 1977 to study at UNE, was eager to put up new routes. He tagged along with other local climbers on their early visits to the cliff. Geoff Francis was about to start climbing a new route near the head of the descent gully when Joe stepped around him and soloed up the climb, much to Geoff's disgust-Theft' (12). Joe then went on to solo 'Carl Marks'(13) and 'Pop Realism' (16) later that same year. No one has ever found 'Carl Marks' to give ii a second ascent. Let me know if you find it. 1978: Brian Birchall made many visits to The Three Sisters during this year. Apart from Joe's solo of 'T.M.P. Excerpts', Brian features on all other new routes, either leading, seconding or just 'tram-lining'. He led 'Creep'(16), a variant and better finish to The Golden Age', 'Punk Rock'(13) , a jam classic at the time, 'Pavlov's Dog'(15),a great climb on the First Sister, and 'Making Ends Meet'(l6), also on the First Sister. He unsuccessfully tried to lead 'Give It to Me'(19) but gave the lead to Gary Blundell who led this horror-show off-width in work boots! Gary stopped after the off-width section as he couldn't jam the far easier next section of the climb. However the most impressive route completed this year was 'Demon Dropout' (22) led alternatively by Kevin Pearl and Joe Friend, it was many years before this climb received a second ascent.

1979: Only two new ones were completed tills year... 'Chock a block' (17) by Brian and Jack Latanzio. This is a desperate little climb near the head of the main descent gully, 'Bloodless Coup' (17) by Brian and Jack is a tricky but pleasant route around near 'Wedding Bells'.

1980: This was the start of two years of hectic activity at 'The Three Sisters'. In March Al Stephens teamed up with Rob Clarke and swung leads on 'Hair of the Dog'(16), adding a variant finish in Sept. the same year. During the same month Brian and Mark Colyvan did 'Spectre' (19MO), a frightening off-width with a change of direction at half-height. Jack Lattanzio led Dulux and Brian up 'Roundabout’ (16) at the left-hand end of the main cliff. In June Brian led Jack up the beautiful 'Dance of the Screamers’ (20M0). On a subsequent ascent by Animal, Mul threw his almost worn out 'Fires' off the top and announced that the climb was fucked! Since then many aspiring climbers have had to walk away from the very hard stat in disgust. Rob and Al went to the second Sister in July and completed the only route there to date, 'Fluorescent Halo' (16) named after the statue in the convent grounds in Barney Street. Many other quality routes were completed in September, mainly by Rob and Al; La Paloma (18), New Boors and Panties (18M1), Blockhead (20), El Duce (20) and La DoIce Vita (18).

1981: This was the year that standards began to improve and a big push was begun to get rid of all the MO grades. El Duce, The Lost World, Blockhead, Spectre, Dance of the Screamers and New Boots and Panties were all 'freed'.

1982: New route development slowed right down. Off The Air (21), a desperate jam crack, was the only new one.

1983: The year of the variant. Off The Air received a first pitch, El Duce was given a variant of pitch 2, and a variant start to Wedding Bells was put up, giving , a long, sustained four pitch route, Get Me To The Church On Time (21MO), later freed at 22.

1984: Richard Curtis was always looking for new areas and new routes. While wandering around the Eastern edge of the Three Sisters he found a steep gully containing many short routes. He, with Brian Birchall, Cal Finlay and Al Stephens, set about doing most of the climbs, the best being Lady Fingers Boudoir Biscuits, originally graded 17, now considered to be about 19, and Clarence Frogman Henry (17).

1985: Simon Gay, an improving climber at the time, completed the last of the main cracks in the East Gully, Misspent Youth (17). Otherwise repeats of the other lines occupied local climber’s time.

1993: From '85 to '93 there were no new routes. In Sept '93 Al Stephens with Ben Christian and Toby Waters bolted and completed the first pitch of Fake the Funk (23) on the main cliff. Future development will involve bolted walls and arêtes as virtually all the crack lines have been completed. However the great traverse cracks still await a first ascent!

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.624146, 151.827850

description

All crags that are on the east side.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.612166, 151.818612

approach

Getting to the cliff now involves walking in along the gorge rim from the car-park at Yellow Wall. Instead of turning down the descent gully for Yellow Wall keep walking along the gorge rim for approximately 2 kilometers, Pineapple rough is the first large buttress after Yellow Wall. Access to the climbs is from the northern descent gully. Routes start at the bottom of the descent gully and are described from left to right.

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.605131, 151.817322

summary

Steeper granite

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description

Yellow wall and the other cliffs on the eastern side of Gara Gorge have some of the best lines in New England. The granite on this side of the gorge is much steeper and seems to be much more juggy and featured that the characteristic 'Slabs' of Moonbi and the Eastern side of the gorge. The cracks are still there (and many of them still await first ascents) but the potential for steep bolted walls is astounding, many of them multi-pitch. With an eye for a line and willingness to do a little bit of cleaning you could have your name scrawled across the pages of the next guide. Get to it!

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access issues

The access is on private land (the property of Silverton). As of 2009, the owner was Richard Waters (02) 6775 3755. He was fine with, and even encouraging having climbers driving through his property. He just asks that you phone ahead. As in all rural areas, leave gates as you find them and drive slowly through livestock. If you see anyone at the properties make sure you stop and say G'day. Future access depends on good relations with these fine folk.

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approach

To get to Silverton take the Waterfall Way east for about 17km from the outskirts of Armidale and turn right onto Silverton Road. Go 5.3km to an intersection and continue straight ahead. Go 2.2km to a cattle grid, shearing shed and gate. Continue another 500m to another gate. Go through the gate and turn immediately right into the field (a faint trail). Drive or walk down past the dam and follow the gully until it widens out and there is another dam near the gorge rim. Cross the gully and drive up onto the knoll. There is a metal gate to the gorge rim. Go through the gate, admire the incredible view and the bush bash down the gully.

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where to stay

Armidale

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ethic

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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history

Climbing at ‘Yellow Wall’ was part of the beginning of a new era for climbing in Armidale. It was the beginning of the discovery of many steep granite cliffs in ‘Gara Gorge’. Prior to this time, climbing was, except for the slabs of ‘Mt. Yarrowyck’, limited to waterfall faces and their adjoining cliffs.

In April 1975, Al Stephens and Trevor Gynther walked down the Gara River, below the Blue Hole, looking for new cliffs based on information given to Al, by talented young local climber Bob Killip, that there were big cliffs in the area. The pair found and climbed a route on nearby ‘Nettle Buttress’, 'Serenity' (17). On the long walk home that same day they decided to check out the large wall glowing in the sun on the opposite side of the gorge. This, of course, was ‘Yellow Wall’. The potential of the wall was obvious. Later, easier access was found by driving across farm land. This led to Yellow Wall's popularity.

The scene at that time consisted of Bob Killip, Rob Dixon, Brian Birchall, Jill Kellman, Phil Prior and Al Stephens. Everyone was eager to get into the new routes. However, initially new routes came painfully slowly. Eventually all the above climbers were involved in new climbs, but the best of that year was Bob Killip's 'Gnome Tree' (19). Bob initially graded the climb (20), Armidale's first 20!

Next year, 1976, Bob invited Kim Carrigan and Gooney to Armidale to confirm the grade. To Bob s horror and disgust, Kim thought that it was about 18! Today it's considered a soft touch 19. On the same day as the infamous down-grading, Rob Dixon and Al Stephens aided 'Pin-Up', destined to become one of the hardest free crack lines in the area. By far the best route during 1976 was ‘The Push' (19) by Richard Curtis.

During 1977 there were many repeats but no new climbs put up.

Eager to find the perfect cliff, the locals in 1978 started to explore further down the gorge on the eastern side. ‘Pineapple Rough’, ‘Colony Wall’ and ‘Pinnacle Ridge’ emerged, but only a number of new routes were put up at each of these areas. Joe Friend moved to Armidale and was primarily responsible for this enthusiastic exploration. Two examples of his enthusiasm are 'Portable Rip-Off (19) at ‘Yellow Wall’, done in sand-shoes, and the long multi-pitch route 'Moments in Never’ (17) at ‘Grey Wall’. Birchall and Prior did among other things, the beautiful off-width 'Aristocrack' (18) on ‘Pinnacle Ridge’. Killip teamed up with popular (?) Queensland climber Robert (Squeak) Stazewski to do the prominent ramp on ‘Colony Wall’, 'Menagerie' (12). Geoff Francis, UNEMC's quartermaster and safety officer, did a couple of short new ones with Stephens at ‘Pineapple Rough’ in 1979. Apart from these, no other new routes were attempted that year.

1980 was also very quiet. Except for Ed Sharpe's 'Far Canal' (16), which has since crawled back into the mank due to poor patronage, the only other route was Austin Legler's 'Humble Pie' (18), which has repulsed many aspiring leaders and forced them to eat it.

1981 produced two classics; 'Arms Race' by Birchall (later freed by Mark Colyvan) and 'Teddy Bears Picnic' by Paul Bayne (also freed by Colyvan). Note: I have used a star system to indicate the routes of better quality.This does not mean that all the other routes at each cliff are leprous piles of mank, nothing would be further from the truth.The system is very simple, in fact, you'd have to be a bloody moron not to understand it. If you don't agree with my opinion of what's a good climb........tuff luck!

1982 was, at the time of writing, the year of greatest activity, with 13 new routes at ‘Yellow Wall’ and 5 at ‘Colony Wall’. Many are great climbs such as John (Jack) Lattanzio's ' Men of Good Fortune' (20 ), Bayne's 'Magnifascent' ( 23 ), Lattanzio's 'Crucifix' (22 ), Paul (Animal) Colyvan's 'Switchblade' (21) and Stephens and Bayne's multi-pitch epic 'Golden Handshake' (23 ). Without doubt the greatest achievement during 1982 was Bayne's first free ascent of the old Dixon/Stephens aid route Pin-Up' which went at 25. His fingers still resembled #1 rocks several days later. Since then Pin-Up has only had one repeat. This was by visiting New Zealander Simon Vallings.

1983 was a return to the quiet times with only four new routes. One of these, 'Sundance' (24) by Chris Dale (an extremely tall English climber), has seen more 'notable failures' than ascents. Curtis and visiting Victorian Kevin Lindorff were responsible for the only new routes done in 1984; 'Rough Justice' (19) and ‘Enfant Terrible' (21), a bold bolted arete.

From this time to 1989 there were no new routes done. Late December Tim ( Tadpole) Ball squirmed into town, knowingly stole 'Evil Angels' (24), a wall route cleaned and bolted by Al Stephens, slumped his way up 'Santa Claws' (25MO), then went back to Brisbane.

1991 produced 'Trad Jazz' (17 ) by Lattanzio and 'Backwards to the Future' (17 ) by Curtis, both at ‘Pineapple Rough’. In April the same year Curtis surprised everyone, and probably himself, by safely completing the very loose 'Shattered' (18 ) at ‘Yellow Wall’, without injury to himself or his second.

1993 saw six new routes with five of them being bolted walls. Gordon Low was responsible for three of these beauties; 'Zussamen' (16 ), 'Social Misfit' (19) and the short but very sweet 'Saracen' ( 22 ). Also of note is Chris Fiddyment's short instant classic 'Wee Dangler' (15 ), the only crack climb that year.

Only one new route has emerged in 1994, 'Foetal Attraction ( 22 ) by Stephens.

Written by: Allan Stephens (March 1994)

Since 1994, interest in Yellow Wall has decreased as climbers turned their attention towards climbing and developing other areas on the western side of the gorge (Dome Wall, Persian Carpets etc.), Moonbi, Ebor and Mt. Kaputar but don't be fooled into thinking the pool of new routes has just about dried up. Far from it. Potential for new routes (including cracks) at Yellow Wall as well as at Pineapple Rough and Colony Wall is vast and potential for bolted wall routes at all these cliffs has unknown limits. So if you like cracks , roofs, slabs, walls or the prospect of a virgin cliff, then the eastern side of the gorge awaits your presence.

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Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.624472, 151.821469

description

'Colony Wall', the large cliff directly opposite 'Sweethearts Buttress' is hard to find, and apart from a few visits in the past is relatively undeveloped.

approach

To get to 'Colony Wall' you must walk in, as this area is also under the jurisdiction of the owners of Applegrove who, as mentioned before, don't take kindly to climbers on their property. An alternative approach is to speak to the owners of 'Silverton' about access through their property. This is best done by contacting local climbers through the facebook page of the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club facebook page (UNEOAC).

If approaching along the gorge rim, park at Yellow wall and walk past 'Pineapple Rough' until the bulk of 'Colony Wall' can be seen.

Due to the walk in this cliff has had few visits.

It is important to access the top of the cliff from the right spot in order not to spend ages finding the approach to the climbs. Find the point on the dog fence (high fence) where it is joined by a farm fence with a gate. Nearby there is a National Parks gate in the dog fence. The gully which leads to the Camp Cave (a good place to gear up) is here.The cave is near the bottom of the gully on the right (upstream) side. The high-point of the cliff is just below the cave and the upstream gully can be accessed by descending the slope below it in the upstream direction.

descent notes

Just left of the monster overhang and the top of the Stazewski- Killip ramp is a vegetated ramp leading down leftwards (facing the cliff); this provides access to the lower parts of the left-hand end of 'Colony Wall'.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.632125, 151.827328

description

Again, access is a problem here due to access through Applegrove being denied. To get there now you have to walk in along the gorge rim to the descent gully on the right (Grid. ref. 875-108).

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.633192, 151.829267

description

Pinnacle Ridge is located on the downstream side of, and can be seen from, the Grey Wall. The ridge has five pinnacles (referred to from the top of the ridge).

Located 20m down and right of the 1st pinnacle.

The 3rd pinnacle is the smallest of the pinnacles and is located 20m further along the ridge from the 2nd pinnacle.

Further down the ridge.

approach

Access to the climbs is via the descent gully on the downstream end of the ridge or by scrambling along the ridge itself. Only 4 routes are recorded in this area - one each for the first 4 pinnacles.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -30.632166, 151.834343

summary

Steep fractured rock. New route opportunities.

description

Two major buttresses with quite different characteristics. Feels remote but only 2k's from where you leave the car.

access issues

Through private land at Silverton. Property owners must be contacted for access permission (Richard Waters - 02 6775 3755). Contact local climbers for information via the Facebook page - 'UNE Outdoor Adventure Club UNEOAC'. Continued access depends on cordial relations with the owners who have been very generous with access permission since the early seventies. Respect fences and leave gates as you find them!

Gara Gorge Guide

Table of contents

1. Gara Gorge 1,106 routes in Region

1.1. Upper Gara Gorge 753 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Blue hole area 7 routes in Sector

1.1.2. Cascade boulders 220 routes in Sector

1.1.3. Central Boulders 79 routes in Sector

1.1.4. South-Western Boulders 52 routes in Sector

1.1.5. Southern Boulders 44 routes in Sector

1.1.6. Eastern Boulders 26 routes in Sector

1.1.7. North rim boulders 5 routes in Area

1.1.8. Northeast Boulders 22 routes in Sector

1.1.9. Ring pull boulder 12 routes in Boulder

1.1.10. Central climbing areas 134 routes in Area

1.1.11. Powers creek junction 58 routes in Area

1.1.12. Big boulder bend 33 routes in Area

1.1.13. Downstream climbing areas 61 routes in Area

1.2. Western Gara Gorge 261 routes in Crag

1.2.1. The catacombs 1 route in Crag

1.2.2. Mushroom Rock 3 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Nettle Buttress 11 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Isolated Buttress 3 routes in Crag

1.2.5. Persian Carpets 37 routes in Crag

1.2.6. The Pagoda & Split Rock 26 routes in Crag

1.2.7. The Sphinx 7 routes in Crag

1.2.8. Dome Wall 93 routes in Crag

1.2.9. Sweethearts 11 routes in Crag

1.2.10. Wallaby Wall & Slab City 19 routes in Crag

1.2.11. Three Sisters 50 routes in Crag

1.3. Eastern Gara Gorge 92 routes in Crag

1.3.1. Pineapple Rough 9 routes in Cliff

1.3.2. Yellow Wall 48 routes in Crag

1.3.3. Colony Wall 21 routes in Cliff

1.3.4. Grey Wall 7 routes in Area

1.3.5. Pinnacle Ridge 4 routes in Cliff

1.3.6. The Glen 3 routes in Crag

1.3.7. Cooney Creek Crag 0 routes in Crag