Ascents in Savage Amusement Buttress as Red point

After a few failed starts I tried something new and got going. A really surprising route that has a bit of everything. Classic find Skippy!

Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.

Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.

Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go

Really good rock, fun jams. I loike it. First few pieces already placed as cbf cleaning after first go.

Woooooo! Dude, absolutely classic. Bomber rock, number of different styles of climbing in the one route, crazy top out, loved it. Tell ya what I had to fight for it though, heel hook popped on the bulge crux and had to squeeze with all my might to stay on, spicy. Gear: #4, #0.75, 2x#0.5, 2x long extenders and three draws 🤙

First shot involed mining through the dead trees at the top. There is no suitable anchor at the top besides trees well back. (maybe consider lower offs as this route is proper classic).

Second shot involved me pulling the crux then rather than using a leading heel hook I chose to use a leading sheniqua ( my butt) to shuffle onto the ledge. Turns out that lichen is quite slippery and I started sliding off upside down to my horror.

Managed to recover though ahaha

Missed out on the onsight, locks up high were a super awkward size for me. Taped up the fingers and got it second go though 👍

Really good and a little frightening. Classic, best line on the cliff (?) .

Good to get back on this after a decent break. Hung around under the crux and thought about it too much before finishing it. Ample ways to attack the crux, my second shot was clean.