Nodes in Swimming Hole Buttress

50m down from the Mad Woman’s Breakfast Boulder is a large swimming hole. The cliff (obviously) is on the right side (facing downstream) of the river. Easiest access from the car-park is straight down the track, down the sandy goat-track, turn right at the bottom and your there. Routes described from right to left.

Start: Details are vague but this route is believed to start in the gully on the upstream side of the buttress.

Up obvious crack to ledge, then up right-trending crack to top.

Start: 10m down right from W.t.M.

Up obvious flake to top.

Start: The very obvious horizontal line that traverses the length of the buttress.

Quite a classic, that is undeservedly rarely climbed due to it’s obscurity. Traverse left along obvious horizontal roof crack until a few powerful moves put you on a good ledge. Continue left and down a few moves to belay at water level.

Wandering line following path of least resistance to top. Start towards the left end of the cliff. Escape through the tree on the right at the top, going left up the face would be harder but more rewarding.

There is a very big obvious boulder which you can scramble up and jump sideways into the upper pool. There are a few harder ways to get onto it.

Good start crimps, through broken square shapes.

Start on two slopers and up

Start left of and link into Jump2

Across the water from the Jumping boulder. Perfect sculpted castle hill problem.

Sit start on side pull, slap up to dish, then pebble wrestle your way up.

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park