Routes in The Fortress

Start: On the ledge that is reached by traversing in about 50m down the upstream gully. The clean orange corner one pitch below the obvious roof crack which faces west.

Up initially overhanging twin cracks, then a few nice moves find you back in the offwidth to finish. Belay back on ledge.

Either climb 'Pockets Full of Emptiness' or do a roped easy traverse onto the ledge. Can also be accessed via the 'Cloud Grazer' abseil.

Up a flared off-width with two carrots, ignore the choss deep in the crack. Gain a semi decent rest at the roof, then bust right for 4m before heading directly through the burly roof crack, round the lip and on and upwards through more off-width to finish.

A hidden tiny perfect hand crack. Almost a highball boulder except for the 50m cliff to your left.

“Need a little time to wake up!”

Up layback flakes until they run out. Step right to some tricky wires then crimp up (crux) to slopey ledge before finishing up the final crack.

Start on the large rock deep in the chasm, fairly straight up past 6 bolts to anchor on ledge

The original approach into Dream Catcher. Scramble onto the left ledge from below or above and then awkwardly and very carefully traverse around the long cantilevered nose and along the back of the roof.

Up to low angled crack slab to a stance. Then a fun move through the roof and up the next crack / slab deep into the back of the roof.

The outrageous roof crack so steep you climb downwards.

Start: Traverse in from the left or climb 'Foreplay' then reset anchor at the back of the roof.

Through offwidth crack which slowly tapers all the way down to nothing before opening up again and then up the headwall.

Start down on very small ledge (build a semi hanging belay). Follow easy ramp slightly right to first rooflet. Short boulder through this and up easy slab crack into the big main roof. Bust out this through the lip turn (crux). Continue up pumpy headwall then tackle the final third rooflet boulder problem to topout at DBB.

Original aided at 20 M1 and exited left through vegetated alcove, must do third rooflet for the full tick.

Thin climbing in an amazing position. Rap in to hanging DBB. Climb up the project for 2 bolts and then left to the arete.

A direct line up the face that ratchets up the grade with each move

This is the obvious chimney which can be seen easily from The Bastille.

1. 20m Up blocks to overhanging off-width, traverse right.

2. 10m Up chimney to top.

Start: 25m left of “The Chop”.

1. 28m Up over flakes then into the back of a chimney (strenuous). Then up to a large cutaway ledge.

2. 12m Traverse right and up to crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 10m left of “The Chop”.

1. 30m diagonally right from corner past one lefthand mantle-shelf to a spike runner. Up recess to roof.

2. 20m out right in off width roof, and then up from ledge to finish as for C.N.P.

Start: At the large tree under two roofs.

1. 25m Up over swiveling boulders and vines, pass to the right of a large roof, then up ramp/corner to more roofs. Up through roofs into crack with orchids, exit to the right.

2. 15m Up to roof then left at ledge.

3. 15m Up chimney to finish as for C.N.P.

Start: Mossy corner 20m down right from “The Chop”.

1. 25m diagonally right up series of corners and small rooves to belay at good stance in corner capped by a big roof.

2. 10m Exit right through the off-width onto the ledge to belay at the start of the beautiful flake.

3. 15m Up splendid crack then slab to belay at tree.

This starts off the ledge 30m below the last pitch of “Heritage Colours”. It is best to walk right from the boulders at the top of the Fortress and skirt around to tree at the top and abseil in.

Start: The ledge 10m off the ground right of H.C. at a double-bolt belay.

1. 30m Up the scoop past three bolts, up over block (small cams), and up the short arête past two more bolts.

2. 15m Finish up the crack as for third pitch of H.C.

Follow this down until you are looking down a gully, high up on the left hand wall of which is a large dead tree. Above this is the start of the climb. Abseil down from large block, tending left(looking outwards) around various trees. If you end up under a 3m roof tangled up in a tree you are in the right place. (To the left, facing the cliff, is a double roof. That is not the climb)

Helmet strongly recommended for belayer.

1. 25m Start short flakey offwidth, and up hand/fist jam crack to rest under roof. Place #3 camalot in vertical break, take deep breath, hang off knob, commit to rounded horizontal break (no footholds) 2-3m traverse to pair of nice arm bars and something for the feet. After pausing for breath, haul up into corner & a good no hands rest. Then up around a couple of blocks, slow down after these, as the natural momentum of the climb takes you past a good belay ledge to your left.

2. 20m Climb to right of trees, avoid large loose flake (the ugly chain here is to sort of stabilize the flake. DO NOT CLIP) , once above this, comfortable layback to bottom of 8m slab.(pleasant belay here if you feel like it) 4 bolts & comfortable edges, which diminish towards final body smear and top out.