Routes in Ape Area

One of the first climbs at Gibraltar Peak. Pitch 1. 16m. Climb blocks and cracks to the ledge. Continue up to the large ledge below the chimney. Pitch 2. 24m. Climb over boulders then up the chimney. Finish on large rock platform.

Onsite lead by Jones on first ascent was very scary as protection is almost non-existent. Curtis was so freaked that Jones would crater that he soloed up the back of the chimney and tried to act as a human running belay! I'm not surprised that it seems standard to toprope it these days

The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite.

Start as for the second pitch of 'Ape'. Climb up 'Ape' for about five metres then reluctantly step left of the chimney and onto the face. Up past three bolts.

As for 'Ape Escape', but step delicately right onto the face and up. Climb the wall with four bolts, trending right onto the arete near the top.

Inspected by abseil before the bolt plague, thus seldom if ever repeated. Start 20 metres around right from 'Ape'. Climb the left-hand, flake-formed crack to the top, then traverse right for 10 metres to the blunt nose of the arete. Continue up and right (crux) to a ledge.

The obvious leftwards diagonal with a 'cave' at two thirds height.

1. 17 metres - Up the line to the cave.

2. 13 metres - Through the cave and exit up the V-crack to the top.

It is amazing what lengths some people will go to, to do new routes! Find a dead branch and lean it against the face about eight metres right of 'Swinging Seat'. Swarm up the branch with a hard move at the top to reach the ledge. Mantle onto the ledge after clipping the bolt, then climb the crack and slab past one more bolt.

Ascends a series of flake chimneys. Start at a chimney in the back of a small cave to the right of 'Monkey Business'. Done in three pitches.