Nodes in Gibraltar Peak

Varied climbing on a prominent collection of boulders. Lots of slabs, a few great aretes and some stellar crack climbs make for a good day out. Most climbs get the sun, making Gibraltar a good winter destination, although there are some good shady climbs as well. Gibraltar is in Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and is a popular day walk destination, so you can gawk at the tourists having lunch as you do your climb.

This area is the first you come to, stretching to the left and right of the walking track where you first see a small cliffline. 'Another Roadside Attraction' is the prominent corner with a small roof, just right of the walking track.

The following four climbs are to the left of the walking track.

There is a photo of this fine route up an orange open-book corner on the inside cover of the ACT Granite Guide. The first two thirds are about grade 23 and nice climbing. The last few metres will be 27 or 28 and are tenuous and thin. The start is left and around the corner from Poultry in Motion.

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. As of January 2016 the approach is a little overgrown and you'll have to push through light scrub. It's worth persevering though, and the climb itself is clean. Belay on shrubs and gear.

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

Start five metres left of 'Blue Lights', just right of the obvious crack. Climb the thin crack. Step around to a corner then up an easy face to finish.

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Walk off.

Start at the crack 6m right of Blue Lights, on the other side of the same boulder. This is just left of Another Roadside Attraction. Climb crack for 4m and pike left onto mossy slab. Finish as for Blue Lights. DBB and walk off.

Start as for Lengthways Chinaman but keep going up the right-curving crack. Belay as for Blue Lights. Walk off.

The obvious corner crack right of the tourist track. A good line.

Ugh. The crack three metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Gain the crack which is hard to get established in and then turns into a hideous off-width. Finish with a chest jam!

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

Almost as long as the name. Start 15 metres right of 'Bad Luck Sir'. Up the right-hand corner with a no-hands rest halfway, then power up the strenuous crack to finish.

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

To the right of the Trackside sector are a few boulders and slabs that stay in the shade much of the time. There is one excellent climb past the moss.

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

Just right of 'Arse Bandit' and the vegetated chimney. The wall with a thin start and a diagonal crack near the top.

On the left end of a large wall about 20 metres right of 'Arse Bandit'. Up the twin crack system with a bush at half height.

The crack downhill and 30 metres right of 'Barry the Radish' (50 metres left of and slightly uphill from 'Overnight Sensation'). Climb into the cave and left into the crack. Exit with difficulty onto the slab above.

A superb finger crack, with a bulging start. It is on the downhill side of a straight-sided boulder about 200 metres right from 'Another Roadside Attraction'.

Sitting above the Southern Tablelands and set a little back, are a group of tall boulders offering a variety of climbing styles - slabs, cracks, steep face and subterranean excursions.

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

1. 12m - Start opposite Skippy's slab. Up the brushed wall past 2 bolts

2. 8m - Hard moves past two more bolts to the top

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts.

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Sustained and varied. Start in the passage in the middle of the summit boulders. Bridge up to the first bolt and crimp your way past two more. Climb the crack to a small patform. Belay off White Rabbit's abseil station.

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor.

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness.

Walk through the passageway to a large oblique slab wedged across its eastern exit. Climb to the top of the slab. Step left onto the steep chimney wall and move up to the right of the huge jammed chockstone. Chimney easily to the summit.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall.

Start on the dirty slab below the southern side of the summit group of boulders. Up to a sloping ledge, right and onto upper slab and into an easy left leaning crack.

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub.

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

Start in the tunnel 3m left of Gorgeous Turn Me On.

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back.

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack.

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter.

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade.

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

A number of climbs finish on 'The Southern Tablelands', which is the main lookout destination for walkers.

At the left end of the wall. Up the brushed groove and crack past a bolt. A fixed #3 RP was flogged, so take your own...

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Commonly used as a descent scramble, but originally reported as a climb.

Start below a slightly cleaner section of rock about four metres left of 'Hey Jude'. One hard move at the start: up the wall for a few metres, then diagonally left to a flake above 'The Groove'. Follow the cleaned patches to the top.

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

Start at the corner 10 metres right of 'The Groove'. Up the corner and left across the scoop. Climb onto the large flake and move left to join 'The Groove'.

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double carrot bolt belay.

See description for 'Scarborough Fair'.

An aptly named route which is very bouldery. Start on a boulder below a short orange wall about 15 metres downhill from 'Scarborough Fair', through the hole. Use a long stick to clip a bolt and lunge up towards it. If you get this far, a groin stretching bridge onto the opposite boulder relieves the pressure on your fingers. Continue up past a peg and bolt to the top.

Good thin slab climbing up the cleaned strip to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Start on top of some blocks six metres to the right of 'Scarborough Fair'. Up the wall and flake to the ledge. Step up and right, and clip two bolts on the way to the top.

Happy Piggyland and Simply Salsa are best accessed via the Frenchies area. From Heckmondwike Twist, walk under the knife-edge boulder to the bottom of the wall down in The Pits.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

Leaning against and slightly below 'The Southern Tablelands', and sitting above 'The Pits' is the 'Knife Edge Boulder' which has a belay station at the top.

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

The chimney with the crack up the left wall just right of French Connection - FA was done solo

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

1. 15m (15, crux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder.

28m rap from Fouled Up Turkey anchors back to the base.

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The unprotected arete into crack.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

Entire route now hidden under fallen tree branches after the fires.

Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres left of 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start at the top of 'Going Troppo', 'Oddball', etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.