Routes as sport in Gibraltar and Corin Road

There is a photo of this fine route up an orange open-book corner on the inside cover of the ACT Granite Guide. The first two thirds are about grade 23 and nice climbing. The last few metres will be 27 or 28 and are tenuous and thin. The start is left and around the corner from Poultry in Motion.

"Maybe if you take out the bolts, nobody will know." - Joe Lynch. The short slab on a hidden boulder 15 metres left of 'Blue Stumps' as you face uphill. Up past two bolts. Rope stretching!

Quite good. The brushed wall with two bolts about 100 metres right of 'Another Roadside Attraction'. Start up to the left of a vegetated off-width chimney. Hard moves up to and past the first bolt lead to a mantle and the second bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree belay at the end of the boulder.

Two pitches can be done independently; second pitch can be accessed by scrambling up the chimney to the left of Fat and Healthy. Only second pitch shown on topo - up and left past two bolts to the summit.

1. 12m - Start opposite Skippy's slab. Up the brushed wall past 2 bolts

2. 8m - Hard moves past two more bolts to the top

Start about eight metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Climb the wall and arete with three bolts. The crux is past the first bolt.

Up the blunt arete on the right-hand side as you enter the Sound as a Trout passageway.

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor.

Start 2m right of WR. Up the slab and onto the headwall.

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

The bolted line on the downhill side of the Skippy Slab boulder, which you walk past on the way to the 'Egg Cave'. Chipped but still quite hard. Rebolted 2013.

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

A modern classic with technical and varied moves, well protected by six bolts. Exfoliated post fires. Start below the huge hanging boulder on the right arete. Rebolted 2013.

Walk through the egg cave and Easy Rider is on your left.

1. 10m (17) Straight up past bolt to DBB. Originally graded 12.

2. 8m (17) Big rockover onto the egg and walk up the slab to DBB.

3. 13m (14) A short walk over to the Goony Waltz boulder. Step across and pad up clean slab past 2 bolts to rap chains on the 'Skippy's Slab' boulder.

Rebolted 2011. Now with fixed hangers.

Start about 15m down and right from Easy Rider. The steep slab on flakes and sorry looking carrots. Finish up ER. The original route climbed well but has since exfoliated. Best to keep off.

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back.

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter.

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade.

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The clean, wavy slab left of 'The Groove'. Start at the obvious holds on the left, about six metres up 'The Groove', and move up to a bolt. Up the cleaned slab passing a second (originally graded 23).

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

The left hand route on the upper tier of the Knife Edge Boulder. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The right hand route back onto the mainland. From the DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder walk down the slab and fall across the void. This is best done hands first. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

Entire route now hidden under fallen tree branches after the fires.

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres left of 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start at the top of 'Going Troppo', 'Oddball', etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

The line 8m down and right of No Glove. Rap in similar style as No Glove (60m rope required). Start on the low angled mossy slab. Your belayer will be standing on the slab, leaning against the obvious boulder. Climb the slab past 2 bolts. Cruxey before and after the 1st bolt (8m). Treat the flakes with respect.

Very run-out slabbing ... Should be at Booroomba.

Rap in as for On the Beach (60m rope just reaches). Start underneath the blunt arete (about 6m down and right from OTB). Up the slab to join OTB at the second bolt.

Beautiful slab climbing on good rock. Best access is to scramble up the back of the boulder and rap in (refer NGNL, OTB etc). Extend the anchor with a long sling and a 60m rope will just reach. You can walk in but you will be wallowing in scrub.

Start 5m right of OTBDS, directly below the 1st bolt. Legend has it more than one climber as got stuck on the initial overlap and has required assistance from above, Pre or stick clip if you're not solid at the grade.

Start on top of the block between "When Only The Best Will Do" and "Blagdon". Straight up the slab and dyke past seven bolts to anchor.

An attempt to create more easy slabs turned into a misguided use of bolts and effort by people who should know better.

Start down and right of 'Rite of Passage', as for 'No Easy Street'. Step onto the boulder and follow the easiest path up and left past bolts until you're on the horizontal weakness of 'Rite of Passage'. Traverse right to gain the crack. Follow the crack and dyke up and left, then easy slabbing to the top.

Up 'Oddball' for two metres, then left to a bolt. Up the brushed wall passing another bolt on the way to the arete. Finish easily as for 'Oddball'.

Start below a dyke on the western side of the 'Blagdon Amateur Rapist' boulder, about 50 metres around to the right from that climb. Thin climbing to a bolt and up the dyke above past one more bolt (clip with wires). Walk up the arete ('No Easy Street') to belay.

Steep slab climbing. Start, again, as for 'Oddball' to the bolt, then move rightwards along the cleaned streak past three more bolts (the bolts are overdriven - clip with small wires).

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux. Originally three bolts and six holds; now six bolts and three holds.

Good clean climbing, hidden in a short gully between boulders 40m to the right of the mushroom (as you look at it from the saddle). Follow the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top. Lower off.

A slabby, mossy wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder.

The slab with a single large home-made hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder was unworthy of reporting by the first ascentionist, not surprisingly.

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off.

5m right of Flex is a short bolted slab starting at a small alcove (gear belay).

2m to the left of Little Cherie

Up the nose of the lower left tier, just left of Puff Adder

The crack system left of the orange streak, with a crucial wire slot a few metres up.

The short arete high up on the left of the ampitheatre. Take care clipping the second bolt.

The second bolt is poorly placed so use an alpine draw to avoid edge clipping.

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

The orange arete right of BA and left of Crawlin King Snake. Up arete to the crux pulling over rooflet. Start with the first one or two bolts clipped.

A climb of two contrasting styles. Up the arete right of CKS. Bouldery start.

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#0.4-0.5 BD). Lower down Red Belly.

A good, hard climb if you can contrive it.

The arete right of Red Belly and left of OET.

Up the arete, avoiding the OET crack and its edges to the right. Optional small cam (#0.4 BD) in break. Lower down Red Belly.

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past three bolts.

Up the right side of the nose then arete, on bolts.

Alternatively, as for the first ascent - Up the corner to the right of the nose of SS (small cam / wires) to ledge (#7 nut / small cam). Up the right side of the arete past 2 bolts.

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard' below an undercling flake.

Steep slab right of 'Death Rides Alone'. Shares the same anchor.

The steep slab right of Machine Gun Killers, with a shared start.

Will be a direct start to FAFDM. Steep wall then mantle on micro crimps. Open project.

Start at the right end of the cliff as for 'Dollars for a Fast Gun', but at the third bolt head left and follow the shallow groove.

The very right hand line and the first you come to. Great balance move through onto the steep slab.

The left of the bolted lines up the middle of the face.

The right hand bolted line. Hard moves below last bolt with potentially bad fall consequences giving a satisfying lead.

A slabby arete. Start on the flat area on the eastern side of the 'Caribbean Queen' chimney. Bridge up a move and clip a bolt on the wedged boulder. Climb onto it then lean across and clip the second bolt. Up delicately, right to the arete and up. Rap off.

As for 'Swing the Billy' but finish up the sloping ramp.

1. 15m (18) - Start in the cave below and 10m back from the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Boulder up onto the wall. At the top crawl through a hole and scramble up onto boulders to bolt belay.

2. 20m (24) - Up the arete. Seven bolts to chains. Rap off.

The arête right of Puffing Billy. Take a few 60cm slings to hang off the top-belay bolts if you want to lower back to the ground - you can retrieve them on the walk out.

Sustained face climbing. Start three metres right of 'Blue Wind'. Up past a bolt to the first bolt on 'Blue Velvet'. Continue up through the overlap and wall above passing four more bolts. DBB.

The rounded arete and face just right of 'The Lure' with four bolts. Sharp on the tips.

The slabby nose on the next boulder right of 'Cintride'. Up past two bolts then traverse delicately rightwards past two more bolts. Some thin moves.

The dyke just to the left of 'Throw it Out With the Cheese'. Was still a project in 1996 - has anyone claimed it yet?

Good overhanging face on ironstone jugs with three bolts. Throw the rope off the boulder and have your second tie it off to a tree in order to escape.

Starting off the platform on north facing wall. A good thin face past three bolts to an overhanging finish, sharp on the tips.