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Routes in The Fortress

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Showing all 24 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Flying Arkwright

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. Camalots to #4 will make you happy if you're not a great fan of slinging chockstones. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

FA: John Finnigan (solo), 1975

Trad 10m
24 Apprentice's Edge

The arete between 'Sentry Duty' and 'Flying Arkwright' with a pretty slippery crux. Originally three bolts and six holds; now six bolts and three holds.

FA: Mike Peck & Andrew Kean, 1986

Sport 10m, 6
15 Sentry Duty

One of the more worthwhile climbs of its height in Canberra. The crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

FA: Richard Curtis & Damien Jones, 1975

Trad 10m
16 Offwidth left of Sentry Duty

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

FA: No details

Trad 10m
17 Variant off width - Sentry Duty

Thin finger crack, left of Sentry duty off width start. Finish up offwidth or (or down limb start)

NA: Harrie Van de Linde, 13 May 2023

Trad 5m
14 Mule

The obvious chimney on the east side of main outcrop.

FA: B. Aikman, 2021

Trad 8m
22 Fake Crack

Good clean climbing, hidden in a short gully between boulders 40m to the right of the mushroom (as you look at it from the saddle). Follow the left-trending 10cm-deep V-corner to the top. Lower off.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

Sport 8m, 3
19 No Fat Chickens

A slabby, mossy wall on the southern side of the main group of boulders with three bolts to a triple bolt belay. Other reports say it is harder.

FA: Geoff Filmer & Damian Jovanovic, 1995

Sport 8m, 3
17 Scarpered

The bolted climb left of 'No Fat Chickens', starting in a chimney and reaching the same belay, was never claimed by the first offenders.

Trad 8m
V5 Carnage

The off-width come squeeze chimney 5m left of NFC. Sit start from back of cave.

https://youtu.be/3k_6BLflhho

FA: B. Aikman, 2013

Boulder 7m
V3 Carnage (Stand Start)

FA: B. Aikman

Boulder 5m
Unworthy

The slab with a single large home-made hanger in the chimney just south of the main boulder was unworthy of reporting by the first ascentionist, not surprisingly.

Sport 5m, 1
22 Anything'll Do

On the biggest boulder. Start just right of 'Night Fall'. Up the slab and short wall on sharp holds past two bolts. Watch out as both the holds and the bolts may have fallen off...

FA: Dave Sargent & Paul Mason, 1987

Mixed trad 10m, 2
18 Night Fall

Starts on the large jammed boulders above the cave and ascends the slab and corner past two bolts - the first of which is quite high. A few nice balancy moves and it is all over.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

Mixed trad 8m, 2
M1 Mushroom Outing

A little aid jaunt onto the top of the 'mushroom cap'. BYO hangers (and possibly nuts) for the bolts.

FA: Greg Lane & friends

Aid 5m, 3
18 Postern

On a small group of boulders 30 metres east (towards Corin Road) from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice jamming up the right angled corner crack on the downhill side. Lower off.

FA: Matt Madin & Richard Watts, 1981

Trad 10m
V4 The Scoop
Boulder 4m
V3 The Nose
Boulder 4m
VB Handsfree

The balance problem up the slab just to the right of TN.

Boulder 4m
16 Paternity Ward

A waste of time. Up the slabby wall about 10 metres left of 'Blood on His Lips'.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

Trad 7m
23 Scratched Record

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1983

Sport 10m, 2
16 Blood on His Lips

A nice thin crack, undercut at the base. Don't worry at the wobbly starting block too much, and take RPs to protect the finish.

FA: R Curtis & J Finnegan, 1975

Trad 10m
22 Flex

Up the expanding flake three metres right of 'Blood on His Lips'. A hard start, then more easily up the flakes and slab to the top.

FA: Richard Watts (solo), 1983

Trad 10m
21 Lats

5m right of Flex is a short bolted slab starting at a small alcove (gear belay).

Sport 10m, 2

Showing all 24 routes.

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