Ascents in The Organ Pipes

Late start, benighted, and rained on.

Unprepared gumbies learn how to aid climb on old carrots. Pros of long BRs? They're super easy to clean because you can slide the plate off while the draw is still attached! Managed with 7 bolt plates and ~25 draws without needing to lower to back clean. Couple of easy skyhook moves get the heart rate up.

Rained the whole walk off, 1/2 head torches, unavoidable victory slide at the base of the mountain, KFC.

I'll get it eventually, for now happy to get to clip 14 without falling. Stellar climb, very keen to give it another go

Quick play on top rope after Cris' aided.

Did all the moves pretty quickly up to around 3/4 up - came down at the tricky corner move to traverse onto the face. Up to that point, fantastic climbing. Start is great. Bolts are not ideally positioned, but I guess that makes sense given the history.

Fucking full on, my first nailing route. peaking the whole time. took a massive whipper on P1 brrr....

12 hours car to car. Lead the 1st and 3rd (main roof) pitches.

Only did P1, will be back to do rest. Easier aid than Cuddles crux, but far more risky IMO. Beautiful pitch tho' especially between 8:30pm and 2am

Le Magnifique, a must for anyone stepping out of the box in QLD.

Fun, Fun nailing in the sun, though the last pitch is hard work!!! Thanks Lee and Phil for cleaning the placements!!!

I lead pitch 1 and 3, Epic Steve lead pitches 2 and 4.

The best sport pitch I have ever climbed in Qld

Few sits at the crux and that's it! Excited to come back for it.

She goes! Hopefully the send comes soon!

Brutal Connie's. Glad I was tall for the roofs, a regular panic was fine no need for the clips tick. Good day out with Dan prepping for Ozy.

Stellar climbing the whole way up! Not a dull move.

I came with low expectations, but managed to free a surprising amount of the climb. It certainly feels within reach.

The move straight off the ground, and in the first corner are certainly the crux for me.

Cannot wait to get back out and work this until it goes clean!

Pitch 2 looks unreal, maybe after P1 goes down I’ll give it a shot.

Round 2.

Flew through the first half, all clean! Angie's beta through the first corner crux worked really well for me.

Sat on the rope, pumped out of my mind just after the traverse out right. Unfortunately I psyched myself out a bit for the second half and only made a few improvements to the beta through to the chains.

Need to work on power endurance and focus for the next session. Looking forward to it!

First pitch only, really just a recon trip. Plenty of shiny steel and just enough hook/rusty piton moves to make it interesting. Looking forward to doing the whole thing when it cools down a bit!

Our first aid experience. The trip was ill fated the moment Ben failed to put down a bomber #2 at the base, although we remained optimistic. Fast forward 6 hours, including an enjoyable 3 hour hanging belay and we found ourselves at the top of pitch 2. The speed record was long gone, Ben had lost all feeling in both legs and we both had slight delerium from lack of blood flow in the belays. We decided to retreat, although our short memories should see us back for the send in the coming weeks. Potential regrade to A5 for dangers of suspension trauma.

Done this one a couple of times... great fun.

I did the first three pitches yesterday and had my ledge set up underneath the roof and spend the night there. First proper aid solo experience and soo much fun. Cleaning the roof was a bit interesting. Toped out this morning after I lowered haulbag and ledge to the ground. To the question if you need a stick clip. The 9th bolt on the first pitch is missing (I think that is the one witch popped). If you do a high step and maybe one free move it's still possible, but safer and easier is to clip the next bolt with the a stick (cheating). To do the scramble up and down with all that gear was a mission it self and felt nearlie harder the the actual climb. I had great 24 hours out. Thanks so much for putting up this climb.

Only to the roof for portaledge overnighter

Phil's and my first nailing route. Over two full days. First pitch A2+ (Phil - 3 hours). Second pitch A1+ (me - 2 hours). Third pitch A3+ (Phil - 5 hours). Fourth pitch A3+ (me - 6+ hours!!). Way soft rock. Hard and scary in places. I took a decent whipper on the final pitch after blowing a hook. Video | My gallery | Phil's Gallery | Trip report

Epic! 12 hours, doing last pitch and walk down in the dark. Very memorable.

FFA.

FFA.

Scariest thing I've done leading out through the roof, but really satisfying to finish.

Very happy to top this out with Scotty for our first ever aid route. Epic climbing with the final two pitches upping the level of awesome and exposure. I extended P1 up to the anchors for 'Stainless Climb p1' then Scotty lead the remainder of P2. Shared a single port-a-ledge overnight while staring at the mega roof, then started around 6am and pushed through the final two pitches to top-out around 10am. Seriously cool aidventure and not nearly as scary as I pictured!

Only the first pitch to retrieve my gear from the day before

Aid is fucking hard. The potential for the first confirmed A5 route was always in the back of our minds with manky carrots and weird homemade bolt plates littering the route(???)

I think I may have doomed us by saying “those aren’t rain clouds, are they?” on the drive in.

They were.

Approach was okay, but god damn the descent down the tourist track was spicy. One handed bum sliding down wet rock while the other hand was holding my phone flashlight. (Why tf would I need to pack a head torch, we’re only starting at midday).

Seemed like we both found our rhythms in the final third of our jumaring/leading - so I guess next time (?) will be a bit smoother.

Highlight was throwing for a hook move (???!!?). Hit a radical black streak of slimy sludge with zero friction and realised only way up was to pull out the old sky hook. Realising that there was no chance it’d hold on the slime, I had to stand on a slippery wet carrot and throw out max span right to get a jug to hook on. Couldn’t weight it sideways so had to basically jump right to weight it. Talk about engaging.

Definitely type 2 fun. Might do again. Maybe.

Sweaty 🥵

Last century some time. Ran out of water & light

Waved 2022 goodbye from the top of pitch 2

Just pitch 1 and 2, of which I lead both in a single 60m pitch. Slept the night on the ledge and decided to bail the next day because of the impending weather forecast (thunderstorms). Lugging all our crap up and down tourist track sucked. A bolt popped while my seconder was jugging pitch 2.

I was lured in originally by a dude at a tibro rap station who frothed this line, then upon reading Iain Hunter s crag log about not having to pull that hard, i knew id have to see what the hoof is hissin up here. 3 seshies later, accompanied each time by johnny 'cavemaster' sullivan, who eventually sent the approach hike in evolves, i came away with a very unlikely result.

1st burn 3rd session, i went for a lash, threw the full laundry load at it and got tossed at the crux. Johnny went up there and found a new way to traverse the crux, claiming yet again hed broken the beta. Naturally skeptical, i was on the fuckedge of not going for a second shot but johnny insisted i at least suss his magic genius-guy beta and dipstick clipped first before i could packup. I somehow made it back to the highpoint and figured with nothing to loose, id put all my biccies in the bucket of the guy that holds the slowest known time (skt) for descending caves route. I clipped and found myself above the crux. Terrified id fuck the dog on the final stem corner, i bridged as long as my calves held out and landed the most satisfying of alpine knees in the bushy ledge.

Id recommend this route to anyone that can climb 22 (you read correctly). Lights out movement thats never too burly the whole way up, well protected, and easy to aid.. because its literally an aid route. Very beta intensive, and a great opportunity to learn about the dark arts of stemming in a state that doesnt offer much of it apart from 27Rs at frog. Im still not real into projecting but to echo Angie's comments in a previous log, this one is worth it, even for the most purest of naked barefoot onsighters.