Routes as sport in Lower Cliffs

Start at the L-most line of bolts on 'Flat Battery Wall'. Balance up the slab past 2 RBs to anchor. Quite run out.

Start 2m R of 'Bad Move', directly below the notched roof. Climb up to and over the roof to easier climbing above. 3 RBs to anchor on left of Flat Battery Great rock but route feels a touch contrived down low with jugs on Flat Battery very tempting!

The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015.

2m R of Flat Battery. A sandbagged bouldery, slabby route. In other words a mega classic! Retro'd with 3 FH and chains.

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Compulsory stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L. Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

A traversing linkup of the four lines on the pillar. Start the climb as per Midnight Makeout and traverse R to finish at the anchors of Morning Madness. The clipping sequence of the route is:

• 1st bolt of 'Midnight Makeout' (FH)
• 2nd bolt of 'Afternoon Delight' (FH)
• 3rd bolt of 'Dawn Raid' (RB)
• 4th bolt of 'Morning Madness' (RB)

To finish, continue straight up to the DBB at 'Morning Madness'

Start 2m to the R of 'Midnight Makeout'. Straight up clipping 2 FHs then a BR. The BR is shared with 'Midnight Makeout'. This route was originally equipped by Darrin Carter but Neil stole the first ascent by soloing the line. Naughty boy. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

Best route on the pillar - sustained. Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'. Stickclip high first bolt from ledge on the left but start the climb down right. 3 shiny new RBs to lower-offs. Retrobolted (with permission) 2015. Take care clipping the 2nd bolt, as there has been at least one ground fall.

Start 2m R of & a bit down from 'Dawn Raid'. The rightmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Follow the line of 4 RBs to lower-off on the right. This route is a bit mossy. Rebolted 2015.

Low start.

Start 3m left of Acid. Bouldery start past 4 FH then joins Acid until it's second last bolt where it breaks right, heading up the corner feature past final FH to finish at Acid's chains.

Climb as for BFI, but punch left into Acid's main crux at the second last bolt. Bring Popeye's stash of pump coins.

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in The Lower Main Cliff just past Owl Pillar.

Stickclip the rightmost RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here at grade 22, but now continues leftwards with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor. Keep left at the second last bolt and stay on the line-of-most-resistance—breaking right through the corner feature is LSD.

Link up. Climb Acid to it's second last bolt, then head straight up through the corner feature that is the last section of BFI, passing a FH to final mantle. Avoids the cruxes of Acid and BFI. The antithesis to Idaho Sunshine.

As for the first 4 bolts of Acid, but instead of breaking left, continue up the rightmost line of bolts past 3 more FH's to Acid's anchors. Some discontinuous, but enjoyable and intriguing climbing that skirts under the top of the ravine. Worthwhile, and soft for the grade.

Located in the steep ravine found by walking above the cave. Look for the big rock knob - ab anchors on the side. Safely bolted (close) due to proximity of back wall. Makes anyone whining about the acid back wall look like a total pansy! Shame, as the features and climbing are excellent, and this would be a rad sport wall were it not in a narrow ravine! Long tricky moves at the start, jugs in the middle, followed by a hard crimpy crux at the top.

…but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent.

Start 50m or so R along the cliff from the 'Acid' area at some blocky orange roofs.

Five RBs lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.

Start 2m R of Forsaken beneath deep orange shield of rock and steepest overhang. Up you go.

Start about 10m R of 'Forsaken'.

Up slab clipping hard-to-spot BR, then overhung climbing past 3 FHs. Past a final BR to chains.

Start 3m R of 'Summer Holiday'.

Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join 'Summer Holiday' at its third bolt. Note that the final bolt on 'SH' is a BR so a bolt plate is needed.

Start 3m R of 'Biyatch Pants' at featured arête.

Slab up the arête past RB to top (retro BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing straight up the headwall passing two more RBs to rap station on ledge.

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

Start 5m L of 'Absentia'.

Up past flake and small bulge passing 4 UBs to DBB.

The original and classic easy sport route in the Glasshouse Mtns. Start about 15m R of 'Present And Accounted For' at pocketed water-worn runnel. If it has just rained don't bother - this route follows a waterfall groove! Most consider this a sandbag. 3 RBs, 2 FHs & 1 RB then long runout on easy slab to rap chain. Route name is based on Neil & Marty being absent from school on the day they did this. Who would have thought a simple case of truancy would lead to such enjoyment for climbers for years to come?!

Start 2m R of 'Absentia'.

Juggy wall with a tricky layback flake start through bulge. At 5th bolt step L to join 'Absentia', clipping its final bolt and finishing at its DBB.