Routes in Upper Cliffs for selected grade

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster'[416785278] up to ledge and TB on gear.

2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs'[13454575] ledge. TB.

4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO'[15558367] up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge with chains.

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.

Marked 'A'. Up the crack then thrutch up the black squeeze chimney to finish. Removes plenty of knee skin!