Routes as sport in Glasshouse Mountains

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the dark, north-facing, columnar wall you first come to when approaching 'Dwarfland'.

Stem up the shaft past 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'Elfin'.

Start 2m L of 'No Biggie'.

Follow the line of 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'No Biggie'.

Start in the corner about 20m L along the cliff from 'Elfin' & 'No Biggie'.

Climb the corner then traverse R onto the face and up past 4 FHs to the anchors.

The anchors consist of 2 solid FHs with new stainless hardware for lowering. However, 3 old rusty mallions are still in place. Whoever has the chance/tools/inclination please remove them.

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the east-facing wall about 15m L along the cliff from 'Like Icecream For Spiders'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the 'De Shrünkenklimb' DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Nadir'.

Climb past 3 FHs to the DBB.

Start 5m L of 'De Shrünkenklimb'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the DBB shared with 'Bijou'. Consider stickclipping the 1st bolt.

Start 2m L of 'Red Dwarf'.

Climb past 3 FHs then R to the DBB shared with 'Red Dwarf'. Really nice moves in the first half.

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

Quality sustained crimpy climbing. Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic then head right clipping a connection bolt then finish up Tripitaka.

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor shared with Pigsy.

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of Monkey Magic.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Reversy-traversy.

Start at 'Something about Sandy' and traverse across Pigsy, Tripitaka and 'Monkey Magic' before finishing at the chains of 'Blowing Bubbles'

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts then head right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

A hold has "appeared" at the crux making it much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: 1m right of A Shadow So Huge.

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

Start up Procrastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt. Finish the link-up at Slider's chains.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this.

Same as for Procrastihowler but head R again and through the Wailer crux to finish the line.

Climb Procrastiwailer but instead of finishing up it keep pumping across to Final Piece and continue riding the pump train to the anchors.

Pack your draws because this is a super link-up. Climbs the 1st and 2nd of Procrastinator, 2nd and 3rd of Slider, bolt 3, 4 and 5th of Squealer, 4th of Madder, 3rd of Howler, 4th and 5th of Wailer, 4th of The Final Piece and finish up this. Some long slings will help alleviate rope drag.

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

A link up taking the line of least resistance. Start as for Squealer, crossing Slider and finishing up Procrastinator.

An awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to a lower-off. Stick clipping advised if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Squealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt.

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

As for Pinocchio's Extension but when you near the top of Doctor Pinocchio keep heading right to Overseer.

A very popular link-up test piece of the wall. Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into The Final Piece. Fire The Final Piece crux and add or skip the final piece of gear (if you dare the run-out). Absolute classic pumpy link-up.

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains.

Climb up the gully at the right-hand end corner of the crag. follow up 'The Final Piece' to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back to The Final Piece anchor.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

Same as for Overseer but follow the right most line of bolts.

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

Ringbolt then 4 FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

Start a few metres right, underneath the broken arete. Good moves through the bulge. Four FH’s to lower off

FH’s and fixed wires. Lower off

Climb through obvious steep bulge in centre of wall to low anchors. Six FH’s

The right most line on the good looking wall. Quite a good route. Up the slab through a couple of increasingly tricky bulges. Seven FH’s

Starts 5m down right at the very easy looking slab. Spot a high first FH. Lower off

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's first pitch.

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring some medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch.

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

The line directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

All protection is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is 10.

1. 35m (16) First pitch is the same as Aphelion pitch 1.

2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up Left. Powerful.

3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. A tricky little bouldering sequence.

4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.

1. 35m (16) At mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side and it should become apparent.

2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on pedestal.

3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Or below... Access via Clemency's third pitch DBB then climb 5m L over mega choss with gear to ledge. Or rap in from Halfway House.

To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left from the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m.

Five FH's with one exposed bouldery section to anchor. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb Apricots.

Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really, as a tribute to Simon's bright orange hair.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Start: Up Caritas for two bolts, then step left onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful side-pulling crimps to ledge. Re-join Caritas for its last 3 FH's to finish.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: At the landmark roof.

The R side of the roof sports some protruding blocks. Crank through on these and blast the corner to The Court Jester's anchor on ledge.

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak.

A high pull-on jug, then perfect finger slots. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge with anchor. A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three bolts - has proved more popular now with five.

Start: 1m R of Voluptuous

Pull on (stickclip if you wish) and start heading R to a massive hold. Scoff some doughnuts then clip a FH. Head up and join ERG for its third and fourth bolt. Follow the jug rail all the way R to another FH and have a tasty bacon and egg burger. Traverse R 2m and clip the last two bolts of HB. Finish off with a cheesecake.

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge.

Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated anchor.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

The bolted orange corner.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

DVous! Start up Black Op's clipping its first bolt, then head up L on impossible holds, before a traverse back R makes things even more interesting.

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then shares anchor with DV8.

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line.

The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

1. Head left and up from alcove anchor to generous ledge, 10m of grade 4 climbing with no bolts. Clip FH and swing out right off the end of the ledge and into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond deviating left to a short corner and then stepping right to a belay stance to anchor. Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

2. Easily up and slightly left to first FH, then more or less straight up steep wall trending right slightly towards the end. Steep climbing with hands free rests when you need them, turn the last lip and enjoy the easy slab to anchor. Outrageous position and unique features make this climb a Tibro classic.

Decent: Have your second tag up a 60m rope or tag line and rap back to the ground. The longest free hanging rappel of the Summit Caves!

15m left around the corner from Four Seasons starting in mini cave. Boulder rightwards past first bolt to easy ground up right on trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way right across a balance ledge to Somebody Else's Weirdo's last bolt and then anchor. Watch your rope doesn't get caught as you swing around the arête.

Start up Punk's Not Dead past two FH's then move left across ledge to base of shallow groove (below white-ish streak). Straight up to knobs and a good rest. Reach left and blast up steep wall to gain a hanging ledge before the anchor.

Reachy crux on marble like rock. From knob reach right (not left) to clip FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) brings you to the lower-off. Avoid using blocks above anchor! Basically follows white streak up right side of this wall.

Beautiful orange rock, tricky crux.

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux.

Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. Reach up from under-cling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

Immaculate rock meets extremely exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head hard right, traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up a beautiful bright orange wall to a rest in mini cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

Big and bold, a King Line of the Summit Cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow hold'. Then breach crux to gain the corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this.

Start just right of the 'T' for Trojan. The access pitch to In Between Dreams and Summit Sutra. Balance start to some stemming moves.

Climbs through the airy featured roof into the mind boggling slab overhang corner. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Start in the gully left of Short and Sweet, high first bolt. Follow easy crack that sickles rightwards. When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in shallow left-facing corner below a bulge. Once established on bulge, head out left to slopey edges and laybacks (two more FHs) and a lower-off at the top left of the wall.

Start same as for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge . Head out right (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to a ledge with lower off.

1. 20m (22) Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Just right of Morning of the Earth, high first bolt. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

2. 15m (25) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into the 'Bell cave' belay. The hard section is short and steep. Powerful moves sees you into one of Tibro's most private areas. Watch your back.

Decent: 30m abseil or two shorter ones back to the ground.

1. 20m (23) Climb up Short and Sweet for 20m to big rest where you can traverse left onto slick orange wall and clip FH. Crux past this on polished marble like rock to a second FH, Build a anchor on natural small gear or run it out and keep climbing into Pitch 2 for one mega pitch.

2. 15m (23) Gripping exposure. Out right side of cave roof past two FHs on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up thin slab on perfect little edges past two FHs to double rings. Rap off.

It's possible to combine both pitches and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope.