Routes as sport in World

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Great rock, technical crux up high. Share start with Mouse. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Shares the start with 'Pill Box', then left after the first sling. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Shares the start with 'Kaeng Raeng', then right after the first sling. Finishes on the anchor slightly to the left. All TI bolts.

Climb 'Pill Box' to the last bolt, then go right and up. Two bolts before the anchor, take the left lines into the huecos. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Climb 'Scorpion', but take the right of the two bolt lines on the 3rd last clip. One hold has been "enhanced" (drilled) to make it more homogeneous. All TI bolts.

The leftmost line, starting from the boulder. Tricky technical line. All titanium bolts. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Extension of 'Exfoliation'. 4 titanium bolts, Go left just before the anchor.

Starts on the boulder, just right of 'Exfoliation'. All TI bolts.

Straight up the grey tufa streak. All TI bolts.

4 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Shares the start with 'Grace', then left after the 4th bolt. All TI bolts. Share anchor with Trippin'.

Shares the start with 'Hunting Shrooms', then right after the 4th bolt. All TI bolts. Share anchor with Renegades of Funk.

Start right-side platform. Up slab, then right on bulge. Share anchor with Grace. All TI bolts.

"The best sport 13a in America?"

Same start as Buzzsaw, then climb RIGHT hand line, up thin technical slab to finish. Shares anchor with Buzzsaw.

Second line on the huge tufa system. Anchor right next to 'Deflowered'. Maybe stick-clip the first sling. 8 titanium bolts, 8 slings.

Shares the first half with 'Family Affair', then straight up to the left lower anchor. 3 bolts, 10 slings. TI Anchor ring (2022)

Shares anchors with 'Mad Skills'. 7 titanium bolts, 1 slings.

Shares anchors with 'Zac Attack'. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

John Wildes route starting from ledge into offwidth and then up overhanging arete

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Start from ledge to left of La Sancta Wall. Up corner then traverse left to arete and delicately up, traverse left to anchors.

Go up from belay on P1. Turn roof with the aid of the left crack.

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

2m right of MP Bouldery start.

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs.

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats!

Starts about 30m further to the right along the trail. Shares three bolts with 'Lars & Lars', then left. 9 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

All titanium bolts.

Climbs the arête on the left of the 'Kidney Cave' face. Start between a small tree and an old tree trunk. Up to ledge on left then straight up arête to an interesting top out. Step across the void and scramble up a few metres to state forest installed mega ringbolts.

Straight up the steep orange face. Climb carefully through the loose rock at the start before encountering some bouldery sequences on the steep wall. Big moves lead out left, before moving back right to the final bolt and a hard topout. 5 ringbolts, finish on the same platform as 'Future History'.

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007

Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

Technical climbing

The 1st pitch is technical climbing on small holds.

Steep bouldery start

Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. 7 bolts for each pitch.

1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels.

This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m.

The big holds are on the left. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice.

Shares the start with Pumpy Brewster.

Shares the start with Sha Bi Abi.

Excellent quality technical climbing, don't be put off by the tricky start!

1st Pitch: 5.10c, 10 bolts 2nd Pitch: 5.10b

This climb is located inside the cave, on the right hand side. This route is logged above as the name "ROTTEN CHILD".

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Watch the top out! A super route on gritty edges. To start, scramble up to the double fixed hangers, right of 'Curse of the Bilby'.

Your rope might get chewed to shreds when you lower off if you don't extend the anchor.

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Eat your spinach for the top!

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

Right of the hand crack, feel free to use it

Fingery start to same anchors as FM

Up past side pulls and long move to jug. More easily up orange rock