Ascents in Clemency Wall

Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn

Took 7 hours to do the first 3 pitches, so we bailed! Very runout on crappy rock.

With NZ Mike. After dreaming about doing this for the last 4 years, I finally got my teeth into it, although it's not a climb I'd be in a hurry to repeat. Not a lot of gear needed - I took all my hexes with me & didn't use 1! Just cams (up to #4) & Aliens/Zeros and some nuts. Got to use my new #3 Zero for the first time and then lost my brandnew Reverso when it got away from me at a ledge. Took a small fall on P10, fortunately I was in a chimney & ended up sideways level with my gear. We only got off route twice on 12 pitches!

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An adventurous day out. Went off route in a few bits but made it to the top in one piece. Ended up doing part of variant finish in a massive 60+ meter pitch.

Lead one pitch.

seconded Jeremy to get to the halfway house

Pitch 1 belay: Extremely antique piton and valve-stem (!) anchor (see picture) replaced with double stainless tru-bolt belay with fixed hangers.

linked 1+2 OS, then 2nd the 3rd.

Cameron Fairbairn lead the first two pitches in one push and I lead the second two pitches together. This is a great climb except for the exposed crux which is unprotectable. A little caution here is needed to surmount the crux.

Not much good gear but still fun

Didn't have time to finish. I found the protection to be sparse... there seemed to be plenty of flaring cracks with misleading constrictions. Took ages to get the gear I was comfortable with. I'll go back and do it again properly. Just with a fresh head: didn't do last two pitches

Ryan led and linked P1 & P2, and I took P3 & P4. It was definitely a bold move to call the crux moves grade 7, but then again I'm not sure what the hardest grade was in 1966. I also don't know if I'd rate the crux as hard as 18, but the moves feel harder than they are because of the lack of pro. I know that I'll probably draw criticism from saying this, but I think the pitons on this route should be replaced, as they are badly corroded (are they from 1966?). I also would advocate for a bolted anchor at the top of P3, as the single piton belay is not very confidence inspiring. But then again, there is something to be said for the historical character of the route. In any event, worth doing...once.

Super cruisy route with more protection than the description suggests. The moves felt easier than Clemency. Pulled off a few loose bits but still highly recommend this climb.

A bit scary in parts, but overall a solid, excellent outing. Easily comprable to Lancelot or Clemency. I led pitch 1 and 2. Phil led pitch 3.

Fun little first pitch direct start to Lancelot

Led and onsighted all pitches. Somehow ended up at the wrong anchor at the top of pitch 2, however, and so pitch 3 was...interesting. We may have gotten the first ascent of this variant finish today. I wouldn't exactly recommend it, unless loose death blocks surrounding marginal thin gear is your thing.

Interesting climb. I lead the first 2 pitches but following the line of least resistance ended up on the anchors of Caritas, about 10m left of where we should have been. Dave who was climbing as another party led into the 3rd pitch which was steep and full of loose death blocks. Would not suggest doing this. Just climb Caritas.

His life enriched so many. [5]

Fell at crux, then finally figured out the move. [3]

Stopped at the crux move [2]

Bolted today, and dogged the crap out of it. My new project.

hard, technical face to a punchy boulder as it gets steeper. didn't get much of a look before we got saturated.

I can't see my self ticking this anytime soon. w/Duncan

Amazing orange steep wall perched in space complete with perfect thin sidepulling. Likely 2nd ascent after 7 years. -- In retrospect, it suited my style perfectly and compared to Hybrid Vigour or Acid, probably warrants the grade of 28. But who really knows...

Amazing position. Some pretty phsycho crimps, keen to come back. RIP my hips from the hanging belay.

Almost pulled the crux on the second shot. A route that demands some strong fingers that's for sure.

Dream route come true! ever since seeing the photo of Monique in the guidebook when I was 15.. never thought I would ever be able to climb that hard

So close but no dice. Was awesome seeing strong lad Anthony get up it. Great motivation to come back for another round

Draws up.

Just lacking a little in skin and body freshness. Did highpoint though, happy with that.

draws up.