Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 21st May 2024 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Twisticle Connection
- with
Makayla .J
1
19
20
2
17
30
3
22
20
Punted first time due to a thumb catch crumbling | 70m, 4 | |||||
Good fun climbing
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with Troy McAndrew | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty much a one bolt sport route. I think I plugged like two bits of shit gear just for the mental
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23 | ★★ Sent From Above - with Troy McAndrew | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice bit of climbing just off the side of the clemency rap. Definitely worth a go
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17 ~18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - with Anthony Bristow | 35m, 3 | |||||
Cool to try the other way of this variant. Actually felt just as hard as the right side.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Alienation - with Janet | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such a great line with heaps of gear.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Janet | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cool as mint slice.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - with Janet | 35m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I found this quite neat. Cool features
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19 | ★★ Divergence - with Janet | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with jmul | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Clipping the bolt was a bit sketchy it's just out of reach after a decent run-out.
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 ~17 |
★★ Clemency
- with
ash and dani
1
17
35m
lead by
Alex Lawson
Some scary moves around the bolt close to the ground. I grabbed the draw rather than risk the ground fall.
2
17
30m
lead by
Alex Lawson
1 exciting move near the piton. Worth it for this sequence. Pretty sharp for 16.
3
16
32m
lead by
Alex Lawson
Pretty cool moves surmounting the overhang. Big finishing corner was exposed, scary, pretty sparse on gear and feels like a real achievement. Not for the faint hearted. | 97m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An old school sandbag adventure climb that requires more head game and sketchy trad experience than it does muscle. Not for the faint hearted and not for those new to trad. Did pitch 1, 2 and 3.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Lia Sullivan | 18m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - with Lia Sullivan | 35m, 4 | |||||
This is not a sport route. Dunno why mark changed it from mixed trad to sport
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19 | ★★ Divergence - with Lia Sullivan | 20m, 1 | |||||
Was feeling a lil bit psyched out as the grade is higher than what I want for runout choss but then remembered that god has me on top-rope. Once Focusing on the movement and not the fall potential this became pretty chill.
Caritas is absolutely all-time! Felt so nice to be standing on bomber rock compared to the crumbly slab below |
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Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- with
Dave Westby
| 190m | Don't Bother | ||||
This was an absolute mission, super wandering route, hard to follow and with little to no gear placements. Definitely got lost on this one and turned into an epic! We were on the right track at the summit when we endured the realm of a thousand cuts… the whole route was sketchy as, loose rock everywhere & horrible rope drag bashing through scrub patches. All in all an epic day out!
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Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with Jack Seawright | 20m, 1 | |||||
The relief I felt when I found somewhere to smush gear into after essentially soloing about 15m is indescribable. Shoved 2 cams in for good measure
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Nearly didn’t see the FH and would have been quite engaged without
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great rock and pumpy headwall make this classic. If only it were longer
|
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Jul 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency - with Sophie Lewandowski | 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 28th Jun 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with sunny | 20m, 1 | |||||
Crux was awkward and missed some good placements.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) - with sunny | 35m, 4 | |||||
Linked this to Caritas.
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Sat 19th Feb 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - with Tristan Baskerville | 35m, 3 | |||||
I ran it out a bit, but had enough bolts..
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Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | |||||
Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Ian Kotze | 18m, 7 | |||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with Ian Kotze | 20m, 1 | |||||
Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency - with Marek | 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pitches 1,2 and 3
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Mon 15th Feb 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Lancelot - with Wendy Law | 90m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 8th Feb 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- with
Wendy Law
1
15
35m
2
16
30m
3
14
32m
| 97m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 27th Nov 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led all pitches. The climbing isnt hard but it's typically bold.
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Fri 16th Oct 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Anna Vo | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Beautiful line. Up there with the best tibro has to offer
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Sun 21st Jun 2020 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An adventure with plenty of spice, but really not as bad as I was expecting. The crux felt easier to me than the crux of Lancelot (originally graded 7 😂). Led all pitches, linked 5 & 6, and topped out for the old skool points. However, I really can’t recommend the last 3 pitches, which are really quite vegetated and somewhat loose. Pitch 3 is all time though!
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Thu 5th Dec 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Wed 16th Oct 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Duncan Steel † | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
A similar but slightly easier version of the Aphelion p3 corner.
Lots of body tension required stemming and laybacking left me quite exhausted. Doesn't let up until you hit the anchors.
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Mon 15th Apr 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enough protection and a bolt where there is none so a solid climb.
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting movement with generally good gear, although short. Used to access Caritas.
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18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | |||||
I think that we did the right version...somehow hard to tell.
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This pitch does live up to the hype, though personally I think some of the other lines at the grade at Tibro are arguably better and harder, since they are longer (e.g., Latitudes). I danced around at the crux longer than expected because there was a small bat in the finger crack that kept nipping at my fingers!
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Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Lancelot - with Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | |||||
Ryan led and linked P1 & P2, and I took P3 & P4. It was definitely a bold move to call the crux moves grade 7, but then again I'm not sure what the hardest grade was in 1966. I also don't know if I'd rate the crux as hard as 18, but the moves feel harder than they are because of the lack of pro. I know that I'll probably draw criticism from saying this, but I think the pitons on this route should be replaced, as they are badly corroded (are they from 1966?). I also would advocate for a bolted anchor at the top of P3, as the single piton belay is not very confidence inspiring. But then again, there is something to be said for the historical character of the route. In any event, worth doing...once.
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Wed 26th Dec 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence - with John Pownall | 20m, 1 | |||||
So nice to be back on the rock after a two-month break, and to try new stuff in good company.
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22 | ★★ The Mace - with Antoine Chandonnet | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite nice! A little featury and some razor crimps at the crux,but otherwise not too bad at all.
|
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20 | ★★ Alienation - with Antoine Chandonnet | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit of a pants-filler in some spots. Really needs a bolt between the last bolt and the chains. Perfect rock for it, and absolutely zero pro. I didn’t use my smallest cam on this, so I wouldn’t write it off completely if you don’t have aliens! Nice slabbing!
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - with Antoine Chandonnet | 35m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thoroughly enjoyed this pitch! Nice pro too, not sure what everyone is talking about! This is Tibro after all.
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Wed 1st Aug 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas - with Danny | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Friggin awesome line, with some moves that just took my breath away, literally. WOW. Amazing
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Sat 16th Dec 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) - with Dave Cook | 35m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Guenevere - with Ryan Siacci, Josh Worley | 90m | |||||
Led and onsighted all pitches. Somehow ended up at the wrong anchor at the top of pitch 2, however, and so pitch 3 was...interesting. We may have gotten the first ascent of this variant finish today. I wouldn't exactly recommend it, unless loose death blocks surrounding marginal thin gear is your thing.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
- with
zac
1
lead by
Zac
2
lead by
Me
3
lead by
Zac
4
lead by
Me
5
lead by
Me
6
lead by
Zac
| 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A really enjoyable route with adequate pro the whole way up (for a confident climber). The third pitch is definitely the standout, but all the pitches were good (we linked 4 and 5 by going straight up near the end of the 4th).
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16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 23rd Aug 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought - with Dave Cook | 380m | ★ Good | ||||
An adventurous day out. Went off route in a few bits but made it to the top in one piece. Ended up doing part of variant finish in a massive 60+ meter pitch.
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Wed 17th May 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★★ Clemency
1
lead by
Me
2
lead by
Shabbi
3
lead by
Myself
4
lead by
Shabbi
5
lead by
I
6
lead by
Shabbi
| 190m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ahhh feels good to be back on Tibro trad! Way less runout than I was expecting, but the gear was shoddy at times. Loved/hated the "tricky step-left" on p1. So hard to leave that mega-awesome-newhome-glory jug. Some nice climbing through the 2nd pitch and particularly the 3rd pitch corner! Better gear here than I was expecting, also. Awesome fun! Cheers for the day Ryan.
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Sat 25th Feb 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 |
★ Lancelot
- with
Melissa Schulz
1
lead by
Callum
2
lead by
Callum
| 90m | Average | ||||
Didn't have time to finish. I found the protection to be sparse... there seemed to be plenty of flaring cracks with misleading constrictions. Took ages to get the gear I was comfortable with. I'll go back and do it again properly. Just with a fresh head: didn't do last two pitches
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Mon 30th Jan 2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Getting to that first FH was thin and heady! Lovely route. Good to get the head in for runout slab trad again. Linked w/ Tested Twisticle.
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Linked w/ Divergence w/ double ropes, so had major rope weight by the last 6m. Was feeling sketchy in the last steep section above the final ledge, but pulled through for the grand finale. Totally loved the hand traverse!
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2017 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right) | 35m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2016 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 |
★ Dreadnought
- with
Ryan Siacci
1
lead by
Ryan
2
lead by
Heleena
3
lead by
Heleena
4
lead by
Heleena
5
lead by
Ryan
6
lead by
Heleena
7
lead by
Ryan
8
lead by
Heleena
9
lead by
Ryan
10
lead by
Ryan
11
lead by
Heleena
12
lead by
Heleena
| 380m | Average | ||||
Mon 12th Oct 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
One thin pull, Nice route but not as fun and sustained as it's neighbour.
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20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cracking little route. Well worth doing.
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Sat 18th Oct 2014 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best bit rock on tibro !!!
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Sat 17th Aug 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Capped off a great day after going up Aphelion to Halfway House and getting spanked on some 24. Tried some moves on TSVMR on the way down which planted the seed to come back to eventually send it
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Sun 19th May 2013 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 26th Mar 2011 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome climb, awesome moves, awesome position. Climbed on the way down from Halfway House.
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Sun 7th Nov 2010 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
engaging little route, with Linds
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Sat 10th Jan 2009 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Cheers Ro for giving me the best pitch on Tibro!!! Laughing the whole way and could not wipe the smile off my face.
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19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 13th Jul 2008 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not too bad, a few runouts and marginal gear in places, but overall pretty good.
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Tue 17th Jun 2008 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | |||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | |||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | |||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | |||||
Tue 24th Jul 2007 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 28th Jan 2007 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
this time with Ross
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22 | ★★★ Caritas | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
this time with Ross
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Fri 29th Dec 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Average | ||||
Followed dave this time. He had an epic.Like a 2 and a half hour epic!! Then he said he had to go home. He has a blind date!! DAHHHHHHHHHHH.
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Sat 18th Feb 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 11/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 16/2/03: Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
|
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17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Average | ||||
18/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 11/2/06: My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Average | ||||
My trad climbing gear, and skills, are rusty.
|
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19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
11/2/06: 2nd Duncan. 16/2/03: Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
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Sat 28th Jan 2006 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left) | 35m, 3 | Average | ||||
Worth a star.
|
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20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Very nice
|
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22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
realy nice climbing. Still waiting for the hard moves
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Sun 30th Oct 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Dec 4 with Pete. Oct 30 with Mark and Horney. Cruisy climbing, average pro
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Wed 6th Jul 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | Average | ||||
With NZ Mike. After dreaming about doing this for the last 4 years, I finally got my teeth into it, although it's not a climb I'd be in a hurry to repeat. Not a lot of gear needed - I took all my hexes with me & didn't use 1! Just cams (up to #4) & Aliens/Zeros and some nuts. Got to use my new #3 Zero for the first time and then lost my brandnew Reverso when it got away from me at a ledge. Took a small fall on P10, fortunately I was in a chimney & ended up sideways level with my gear. We only got off route twice on 12 pitches!
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Fri 15th Apr 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | |||||
20 | ★★ Alienation | 18m, 2 | |||||
22 | ★★ The Mace | 18m, 2 | |||||
Sun 6th Mar 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lead the first three pitches with Phil, so I could see for next time where it goes and where the remaining pitches go. The third pitch is fecking awesome! Not a climb for grade 16 climbers! Should be taken very serious.
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Sun 28th Mar 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★ Good | ||||
Not much good gear but still fun
|
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Sat 27th Mar 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | Average | ||||
linked 1+2 OS, then 2nd the 3rd.
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15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | |||||
Sun 4th May 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
scary old classic - typical Tibro
|
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Sun 2nd Mar 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
15 18 | ★ Lancelot | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cameron Fairbairn lead the first two pitches in one push and I lead the second two pitches together. This is a great climb except for the exposed crux which is unprotectable. A little caution here is needed to surmount the crux.
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Sun 16th Feb 2003 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Divergence | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pushing three stars I reckon. Very classic. With the crux on RP's, it reminded me of Arapiles.
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Sat 26th Oct 2002 - Mt Tibrogargan | |||||||
Clemency Wall | |||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | |||||
Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn
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16 | ★ Dreadnought | 380m | |||||
Simulclimbed with Cam Fairbairn
|