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Routes as sport in Clemency Wall

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Sent From Above

Or below... Access via Clemency's third pitch DBB then climb 5m L over mega choss with gear to ledge. Or rap in from Halfway House.

To rap in, set a trad anchor in the crack 3m left from the start of The Court Jester and abseil down the vegetation chute and chimney-corner below. You'll abseil over the route and onto the ledge at about 40m.

Five FH's with one exposed bouldery section to anchor. To get back to Halfway House, jug up the abseil rope, or climb Apricots.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006

Sport 12m, 5
22 Caritas

This is the landmark orange corner just right of Clemency's third pitch black corner, and visible from miles away. Superb climbing. Up the amazing corner and pumpy headwall above.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 18m, 7
28 The Simon Vos Memorial

Climbs the brightest patch of orange rock on Tibrogargan - pretty appropriate really, as a tribute to Simon's bright orange hair.

Access: Climb a Celestial wall multi to Halfway House, rap down Clemency and swing R over to the Caritas anchors around corner. Climbing Divergence then Tested Twisticle (right) or (left) will also get you there.

Start: Up Caritas for two bolts, then step left onto the intimidating orange wall. Up through the bulge via powerful side-pulling crimps to ledge. Re-join Caritas for its last 3 FH's to finish.

Exit: 2x raps with a 60m from the belay anchor, or belay up your second then scramble roped up onto the Halfway House Ledge and rap down Clemency.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Rob Saunders, 2006

Sport 18m, 10

Showing all 3 routes.

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