Lead pitches 1 and 3. I have to agree with the others commenting here and saying it feels closer to grade 17. Anyway, the route was great and I think everyone should have a go. The only issue was the lack of any suitable anchor at the top of pitch 3. The aforementioned tree might not be there anymore? Anyway, I decided to do a somewhat sketchy and bush bashy traverse left to find the anchors for the last pitch of Phoenix, then we abseiled down there.
Lead pitches 1 and 2 and seconded 3 and 4. I liked linking the first 2 pitches because it meant I got to belay in the shade and it also avoids the dodgy tree belay at the end of the first pitch. Can be done on a 60m rope no worries. Intended to rap down remains of the day but the malions on the rap station are very rusty. It is possible to traverse right from here to the final anchor of Phoenix with a few nuts and small cams as protection. It is quite easy too. So we rapped down Phoenix to descend.
Although chimney climbing is gross and although this climb is very run out. I consider this climb a must do and I'm glad Gen got to do it. That said, I think twice is more than enough for me...
Lead pitches 1 and 3. Excellent climb. Probably one of the best I have done on tibro so far. First 2 pitches felt sandbagged but the third felt about right. Maybe that's just me?
- with
Genevieve Kieseker