Ascents in Carborundum Wall as Retreat

only intended to squeeze first 2 pitches in. not terrible!

Forgot a rope half way to Tibro only to double back home then have a crack at the Carpark to carb chimney tie-in speed run before it started absolutely pissing down with rain. Will be back on the next rainy day to better our pace.

Thought we were on Remains Of The Day until we realised pitch 3 was a bit too steep for a 16 and didn't really match the route description. Traversed right at the end of the middle slab on pitch 3, up along the crack taking care to avoid loose and wet moss. Ended up somewhere around the top of Patience Crack. Up through some shrub to top out into the caves sector. Took a nice shaded breather in Cave 5 for lunch before descending down the Caves Route.

Following in the footsteps of others before us, we ended up on this pitch by accident, while climbing Remains of the Day. Grace led P1 of Remains and then wanted to link up to P2 but went too far right to P2 of Phoenix. Solid lead by Grace (on this pitch) considering all the rope drag while clipping!

I really enjoyed this pitch. It had some nice moves and also mostly positive handholds (flakes etc.)which was a relief after P1 of Remains. Not sure about the rock quality on this pitch and whether I would have felt happy leading it. It got a bit steep near the top and so I came off once, just before the end. I was meant to lead P3 (of what we thought was the third pitch of ROTD) but we thought it looked a bit hard so luckily Grace went for it. We thought it was a bit tough for a 16 and I guess that's probably because it was a 21! Grace almost finished it though but we ended up rapping back down and getting back onto P2 of ROTD.

A fantastic option for a summer afternoon climb with full shade and sea breezes. Sandbagged by at least a grade but well-bolted (except perhaps the start of pitch 2, where you have to traverse right and the first bolt is quite high up and, as you shall read presently, easy to miss!).

Grace led her pitches with great style and rapidity, whilst I followed her with significantly less style and speed (even despairing of actually finishing P1. It was certainly a stiff pitch to warm up on!).We started at 1pm and would have finished certainly by dusk if we didn't get off route. Grace was going to link P1 and 2 of Remains, as there were 4 of us doing the climb, but ended up linking up to P2 of Phoenix. Looking at the logged history of Phoenix now, it looks like we are not the first to make this mistake!

I found the steep bit off the belay on P3 quite challenging- it's definitely the most committing lead I've done thus far and whilst I didn't "send it", I'm just happy to have finished the pitch. The trad bit of the pitch was good but too short.

We finished P3 of Remains (Jill and Alex finished P4, as they overtook us when we went off route) and decided to rap down as it was getting late. Walked back in the dark but we had head torches- this was fortunate, as we almost stepped on some kind of juvenile black snake. I put out my hand to stop Grace (she had not seen it, whereas I was on hyper-vigilant snake watch!). I couldn't see a red underbelly on the snake so it might have been harmless. However, my personal preference is to say that I saved our lives from certain envenomation and probable death. As our lives were preserved, we will be back to finish this climb (I have heard that P5 is the best pitch!).

Onsight first pitch only.

Got rained-off after the first pitch: Went out to do Black Orpheus but was soaking wet. BFI seemed to be the only dry start so threw ourselves at it. That “wee bit exciting” part is much more exciting when it’s damp/dank! Sheesh! Then started to rain, so had to bail off at the first chains. Looks like a sweet line though! Has anyone climbed the arete of the huge flake that houses Carbo Chimney? Looks amazing up there!

Both climbed clean to the top of the 3rd pitch, then bailed in the rain. It would be nice to revisit on a winters morning.

This was awesome, first two pitches were sloper after sloper felt a little scary but so much fun Easy up through the roof balancy move with huge exposure to get out to the bolt on the bulge And That's where it ended, couldnt get the next move down Can't wait to try again this may be my new favorite route

Oh left 2 draws up there if anyone is up there before I get another chance

Bailed at the top of the third due to getting late and forgetting to bring torches.

Ended up on the second pitch of this by mistake, third pitch we couldn't find the hangers after coming over bulge.