Routes as trad in Summit Caves

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. Directly below egg shaped cave and just left of 16mm drill holes. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

1. 33m (15 crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

An adventurous route through unique and interesting terrain. Gets a star for the standout position of the line but loses some for rock quality. Start from the spooky ledge & climb inside the arching crack, the Belly of the Beast.

1. 20m (13) Climb up to the base of a arching crack and chimney up into the cave past a cluster of bail tat. Belay in cave near purple sling.

2. 30m (16) Up wall/crack then keep moving up the ramp along the cave. Carefully up corner crack and belay after topping corner.

3. 30m (15) Climb into next lip, boulder out the right side of the cave onto Tibro juggy slab, proceed up and left to the orange rock cave as for Overexposed.

4. 40m (16) Up corner in cave passing 2 PRs, on ledge continue up and left diagonally following broken crack system. Finish the pitch at the grassy gully. Typical tibro slab trad, small broken microcracks. Deserves an R .

Option to continue up overexposed by going right after the corner in cave on pitch 4. Highly recommended due to the free solo headspace provided by the lack of gear during the fourth pitch

This route climbs up the left wall of the big corner, it starts directly below the half way anchor there is a pulled expansion bolt as a marker. Small gear and two FHs sees you to the half way rap rings, straight up following FHs and solid gear placements. Make you way over tricky bulge and blast straight up, rap station on the right. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps.

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

A direct second pitch to OOTBAITB.

1. 35m (22) Climb OOTBAITB's first pitch onto bird shit ledge watch the drag (natural belay #2 C4 handy).

2. 15m (25) The line then goes straight through the improbable V of the main roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (4 FH in roof). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with stretchy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out right to finish the pitch (#2 C3 handy in roof) (C4 set .3-3 for whole route. Some doubles handy). A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2x 60m ropes)

3. 25m (23) Complete the third pitch of OOTBITB, the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay.

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibros East Face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (24) This pitch traverses right with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner (5m) above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#.5 with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m). Up the corner formed by the ear with small RP's, then into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB over lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

Start between ITTM and Raptures.

Climb the deceptively steep blunt face with bold moves, nearing the top clip the only 'thank God' bolt and say a final prayer, wild bouldery moves lead to a desperate mantle into the Morgue. Bullet rock with decent gear all the way.

Start a few meters left of Strange Fruit. One of the most serious routes in Australia, " I thought I was going to die for sure " Kim Carrigan. On the crux Kim describes being 10m run out from a #0 rp which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.

1. 20 m (23) up corner on great rock to natural belay stance, with pretty good gear.

2. 20m (24) Continue straight up through the overhangs making your way into runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland requiring a very capable and bold approach. DBB. 50m rap or dodgy traverse over right to Trojans anchors.

3. 10m (19) To the top.

Same start as for Raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

1. Head up and left from alcove with T marker. Climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

2. Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the small cave shared with Achilles.

3. Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4. Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

5. Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

This climb takes the obvious right-leading slick corner. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Natural Belay at top. Two 50m ropes will get you back to the ground. You descend straight down over The Digital Revolution.

Crack feature to the right of Free Streaming. Good climbing with a rare jam crux. Finishes up the last 5 bolts of Free Streaming.