★★ Oppression Obsession 17

ACCESS:

The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb.

RACK:

• 1 set of cams to #3
• 1 set of medium nuts, offsets preferred.
• 8 draws

ABOUT:

This route is a linkup with the first 2 and a half pitches of Traxion Action, and then joining back in at pitch 7. There is a direct top out with a scramble around to the tourist track but the best finish is up Traxion Action. This climb is mixed and runout at times. A great step up from Traxion Action for those looking for a challenge or to improve their skills in adventure climbing.

1. (Traxion Action) 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

2. (Traxion Action) 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

3. Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action.

4. (Oppression obsession starts here) - 40m 16 Head straight up from the tree, just right of the small bush to a hanger. Pass some gear placements, an ancient piton and a few hangers to optional anchor. Option to belay here (30m) but best to follow the ramp up to the left for another 10m to the next anchors.

5. 35m 16 From here climb the headwall following hangers and over bushy ledge to find the next anchor.

6. Up and veering right. Trad placements to be found around the slab below the 3 pillars. A direct finish goes straight up the right hand pillar or follow the better option to join back in to pitch 7 of Traxion Action. To do this traverse right 6 meters below the pillar and past a bomber placement to the slab of Traxion Action pitch 7. Slab moves up slab to final belay anchor.

7. (Traxion Action) 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

FAs Matt Hunter, Hamish Ousby, Jay

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.