We f'n did it! What a climb! Mind-boggling! Michael led the first 2 pitches up to right under the roof. I led the crack.
It's not a roof. It's not an off-width crack. In the end, we'd describe it as a tunnel with an open bottom. The open bottom is just large enough to let you slip through, so the trick is to keep your hip high enough that it doesn't get caught. Once your hip is caught, it's game over. We both ended up spooning the side of the tunnel, holding on with both hands and one foot, while pushing hard with the other foot, inch by inch. I spooned the left side of the crack, Michael the right side.
A rollercoaster of nerves: Either we got nervous because of the insane exposure when climbing out on a roof for 7 meters. Or we felt rather trapped and claustrophobic because of the confined space the tunnel provides. Never felt trapped and exposed at the same time before.
Climbers' weight and size matters: I weigh about 10 kg less than Michael. For me, falling through that crack at the bottom was more likely, but I experienced less friction while moving through the tunnel. Michael was less likely to fall through the bottom but had a harder time making progress in the tunnel.
This climb is brutal. Took us both about 40 min each to get through the roof. I broke my harness in the process because it got caught on the rock. We discussed the grade, and we think it's actually one of those ungradable routes, because with what the heck would you compare it with?
We absolutely recommend this climb. It was a fantastic experience and a great adventure.
It's not a roof. It's not an off-width crack. In the end, we'd describe it as a tunnel with an open bottom. The open bottom is just large enough to let you slip through, so the trick is to keep your hip high enough that it doesn't get caught. Once your hip is caught, it's game over. We both ended up spooning the side of the tunnel, holding on with both hands and one foot, while pushing hard with the other foot, inch by inch. I spooned the left side of the crack, Michael the right side.
A rollercoaster of nerves: Either we got nervous because of the insane exposure when climbing out on a roof for 7 meters. Or we felt rather trapped and claustrophobic because of the confined space the tunnel provides. Never felt trapped and exposed at the same time before.
Climbers' weight and size matters: I weigh about 10 kg less than Michael. For me, falling through that crack at the bottom was more likely, but I experienced less friction while moving through the tunnel. Michael was less likely to fall through the bottom but had a harder time making progress in the tunnel.
This climb is brutal. Took us both about 40 min each to get through the roof. I broke my harness in the process because it got caught on the rock. We discussed the grade, and we think it's actually one of those ungradable routes, because with what the heck would you compare it with?
We absolutely recommend this climb. It was a fantastic experience and a great adventure.