Nodes in Chimney Pot Gap

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Collection of boulders on the parallel ridge line and valley to the Mountain Lion

Collection of boulders, road side and easy access. Great for warming up before heading up the hill to the Wedge Tail Boulders.

Start on jug and RH on pinch, move up to large jug and use large pocket to gain slopey jug.

Start as for Gollum Direct and traverse right, under block and mantle.

Opposite Gollum Direct boulder, up slab corner.

Start on jug and RH on pinch, move up to large jug and use large pocket to gain slopey jug.

A novelty traverse. Start as for Gollum Direct, though move right till under block and mantle over top.

Crimp like fiend up a thin set of seams.

Committing high ball with the crux high up! Start on jugged arete, move left into thin seamy crimps and make a committing move to a horn and top out with jugs.

A lesson in crimps, and all bullet rock! Start on arete with jug with L hand and R on gaston incut, move right through two sets of sharp crimpers and make large move to slopey jug, and top out.

Climb arete from same start as The Tale of Two Wedgies... needs some serious scrubbing, but looks good.

Start as for 'Below Moss' and traverse left along slopey rail till at the jug for 'A Tale of Two Wedgies' and top out.

4 meters R of A Tale of Two Wedgies. Start on small and sharp crimps, make big move to slopey jug, head up through crimp and commit to the mantle.

Sit start on slopey rail 1 metre L of Slip and Slide, and move up through slopers and pinches to jugs and top out.

This boulder is 100 metres along from the the Tail of Two Wedgies problem. Walk along the top of this tier till come across a small gully. (Cairns)

Sit start on jugs, traverse left into tricky crimps and out the top.

A small collection of boulders. Many lines have been done, though not logged. Go record them and put them up here as what you think.

Refer to Mentz/Tempest 'Grampians' Select Climbs 2nd ed for topos.

There are lots of lower-grade trad climbs in an accessible location. There is also a large amount of bouldering that has been developed. A few problems are sit starts into the routes.

The highest point of the cliff is visible from the road and is the location of "The Lion in Winter" and is a useful landmark. People in the past have imagined this feature to resemble a "lion's head" profile giving rise to the "Mountain Lion".

The seam, dodging around to find protection.

Start: Two metres right of the juggy lines is a thin, closed seam going up diagonally right.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

This climb appears to take the juggy flake system just left of "Lionhearted". Just to confuse things, here's the original location description, but don't take it too seriously : "The buttress to the left of a large tree growing flat across the track, just up the hill from 'Lionhearted'.".

Coming around the corner from Lionhearted and just before a steeply overhanging section is a south-facing wall.

Steep bridging and buckets up line 2 metres right of arete on south-facing wall.

Continue under the overhanging wall to a broken-down gully. On the right wall of the gully is a small orange corner capped by a small roof, Leo.

This is probably more worthwhile as a boulder problem than a climb. Take a couple of mats, boulder to the jugs then jump off. You might even be able to sit-start it.

Climb into "Leo"'s corner then step right at break to arete. Climb this as for "Leo The Line".

The small orange corner. An energetic start off the ground on the arete directly under the roof. Up to the roof, step left and up.

Up, step right to the block. Up the left side of the chimney to the chockstone. Step onto the right wall and up.

Start: Start at right-hand crack at the base of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

Follow the flake to its top, then up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, just right of the left arete.

Crack and short wall with rests on runners.

Start: Start 2 metres left of " Not Christians For Dinner Again".

Up, step left at ledge and up right face of the arete.

Start: Start at crack 2 metres left of "Lion Tamer"

Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.

Start: Start at crack 5.5 metres left of

Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the detached block from the main face.

Follow the main crack until it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.

Mossy chimney then squeeze through the roof and scamble up.

Start: Start 8 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

Sit start and traverse into the crack and finish as same line as Mr Blobby Right

Sit start, traverse left into the the crack and up,traverse left to big ledge.

Sit start on good holds. Okay to place right foot on good pedal board; big block on the right is off. Go straight up and top out. Way down is nice ladder to the left.

Stand start on knobby block and traverse left. Top is flat jug with nice landing to jump off.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Not memorable at all. Sit start on slopey rail and reach to the top.

Start on edges and make massive (insane) moves and up to jugs, then through scoopy head wall to ledge. V13 plus?

Start on low flat jug, move through crimps and large side pull to jugs and drop off.

Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.

Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.

Start: On the left arete of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack" is a crack that peters out.

3 metres up hill from Anteloped (past chimney) sit start with right hand on dish on face, and left in low finger lock. Make powerful moves into crack and finish on juggy slot.

Start as for Finger Lockin' Good but keep traversing left and make tricky moves and finish as for Toe Above All.

Start on big right hand side pull and small left crimp 1metre left of Finger Lockin' Good walk the feet before moving up and left to finish on juggy block

Left of twin cracks 1 metre right of small mossy crack.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack".

Start on rail and move left to slopers, finishing on a jug pinch in juggy crack.

Same start as 'Off the Shelf' but straight up, same finish.

Start matched on big bulb undercling, work your way to the end of the arete then mantle.

Start on the blocky jug under boulder, grab crimp and make a big move right and mantle to finish.

Start on a sidepull and gaston, climb straight up.

Start as for 'Dirt Merchant' but heading out right instead to mantle up the face.

Start on two opposing jugs, make large move up to some crimps, then right to top out up seam.

Start with left hand on jug and right on flat gaston, engage those shoulders to then climb straight up on small holds.

Start on big blocky jug, move up and right to finish as for 'Tiger Tooth'

Sit start left L hand crimp and R on side pull. Up through diagonal on opposing holds into large jug. Drop off.

Start matched on small crimp rail. 'Tiger Tooth' finish jug

Sit start mactched on large undercling. Stand up and climb up into horizontal break.

Start with a left hand palm down and a right crimp, get straight up to those under clings and finish at the break higher up

Sit Start on blocky side pull, work your way up and left to finish on the break with the others

This problem is contrived Start as for 'Climbing the Knuckles' but moving across left into the under clings, working your way into the start of 'Jailbreak' and to finish up that problem.

The line direct to the top.

Start: This is described as starting 30 metres right of "Wildcat". It appears to be a steep line bounding the left side of an orange section.

A detached block of steep orange and grey rock stands out from the main cliff-line. There are no climbs on the south face but several routes are jammed together on the west. This is about 50 metres right of The Lion In Winter. Need to identify where this is in relation to boulder problems.

Start 3m to the right of 'Wildcat'

Go up vertical crack line for 2m resisting the temptation to veer left by keeping right and go straight up. At the slightly sloped break (About 1m below scooped out section) veer left to cross 'Wildcat' and take its left handbranch, topping out to the right of the bollard of "Lion Premiums".

The crack, taking the right-hand branch near the top with some doubtful holds.

Start: On the same block as 'Pangur Ban', 3 metres right of the arete.

Steeper than you expect.

Start: The middle of the orange wall on the detached block.

Up right of the overhang on the arete, move left below the small bulge and straight up on steep grey rock.

Start: Start at the left arete of the detached block.

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

The next four climbs are on west-facing wall left of and at right angles to Ray Ban and to the right of the large orange roof. On the right-hand side is a large "double chimney".

Start at the arete immediately right of the right-hand chimney.

Up, starting just left of the arete.

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline. Take the right-hand chimney then up the orange corner above to pull through the "eye" (a gap in the small roof).

The right arete of the left-hand chimney.

Start: Start at the base of the left-hand chimney.

Thrutch up the left-hand chimney then up the orange wall. Pull up over rooflet then more easily.

Start: Start at chimney 3 metres left of "The Eye Of The Tiger".

Sit start with R in mono and left on under cling. Move up through side pulls to jugs. Finish on small ledge. Down climb on ramp to the left.

Start matched high in slopey seam, climb left into the crack and finish on the horn jug.

A few low ball climbs with trick sloper top outs.

Desperate sloper mantle problem. Sit start on low buldge, move into sloper rail and press up.

Sit-start as for Slapped Up! Traverse left on good slopers before making powerful moves up.

Start on crimp rail, and head right to slopers and up and over big break.

Start on crimp rail and R hand side pull. Gain slopey ledge, and head left through small edges and slopers.

A proud boulder with an array of differing climbing styles on great rock. Steep crimpy lines to compression sloper problems.

Sit start with LH in seam and RH on large jug. Head straight up the proud middle of pride rock through a thin seam to jugs and a committing mantle to finish!

Delete

Start as for 'Simba's Pride' after getting to the jug at half way bust out left via thin seam and sharp pocket. Finish as for Low Land Direct.

Stand start on flat jug, and finish up mantle as for 'Low Land'

Sit start with low gaston incut and left hand on crimpy side pull. Make hard moves up to large flat jug and traverse left and up to a committing mantle.

Start as for 'Low Land' and once hitting the jug head straight up via a big move on crimps

Sit start on large jug rail and jug your way to the top. This is also the best way off the boulder.

"It means no worries". Sit start as for Mufasa on large jug rail. Traverse right through dishes into a large break and then head up via edges and jugs.

Same start as for Hakuna Matata, though keep traversing right through small slopers and pockets and into Chicken Pride and finish as for that.

Stand start on vertical slot (both hands). Make move with left to sloper and make huge span out right to juggy rail. Top out right with slopers. (Heading out left is the pikers variant).

Start as for 'Beyond Infinity' climbing left and finishing as for 'Chicken Pride'.

Sit start on opposed crimps. Climb straight up via tricky moves to jugs and top out. Sit start to Pride of Prides

Start matched on lowest part of undercling, move up too small pocket/pinch on undercling and make big move left to jugs and top out.

Stand Start on lowest part of undercling and head right via big move and top out.

Sit start on side pull and up into scoop, traverse left and press into juggy flake and top out.

Start as for Pride Cometh... but head straight up

Stand start with left hand on small crimp and right on slope rail. Make tricky move to a sharp crimp and then continue up via slopers.

Boulder located 2 metres up hill from Stu's Bloc. Low ball starts to tricky mantles.

Start on high rail with small feet, make big move to ledge and mantle over the lip.

Start on large holds on arete and make big moves up on slopey jugs and mantle.

Large Cave at the top of walking track, great roof climbing on juggy holds and hueco's. Plenty more potential on the right side of this cave to be developed.

"The Wheel of Life" for the not-so-strong.

Classic. Start at the very back of the cave on big holds. Follow the puzzle of juggy holds out to the lip. Don't get lost - beta finding is tough.

Do Not Top Out; Caution: It is a 6 metre choss fest)